dropcivic

I have been reading and searching and quite a bit of my answers have been answered(thank you to the cubish and 1700 builds) but i still have some questions.

I am planning out a big shot, all nitrous h22a for my eg. The car is a strict track car so i am planning on running 110 octane. After talking with some of my v-8 friends(8.2x in a built 302 with a metric *** ton of nitrous), i am planning on 125 first stage, 200 second stage(both will be used in 3rd gear and higher, so a 325 shot) but it is the bottom end giving me problems.

The engine is a colsed deck h22a that i am looking at getting sleeved be either Benson or GE but it is the piston and bore choice giving me questions. I am thinking 12:1 or 12.5:1 CR with an overbore, maybe 88 mm or bigger. Anybody have any exepertise they would like to shine in on this one? Another is cam selection. I am being told that a small overlap is the way to go, maybe a cam more suited for superchargers. Any help here either?

Thanks for any guidance. GOing by the v-8 guys, they have told me try not to spray more then 150% of your NA output so going by this, i need at least 250 hp to be safe. Any nitrous gurus wanna throw there $.02 in here? And I plan on doing a build of thread of the engine with dyno sheets of NA, 1st stage, 2nd stage, and full tilt.

Civich22ybrid

What's up, I have an H22 on a decent hit also.
Both of those companys will do a good sleeve for ya. Your question on comp. and bore size.
Your tuning ability is the major question for your compression and type of gas you want to run. If it's a true! track only car I would be looking at 13.5 - 14.0 comp. Nitrous Loves compression and I don't mean compared to a turbo motor...Nitrous and 15:1 is good on a full race motor.

As far as the bore, honestly I would probably either stay with stock bore maybe 1mm over
One reason I say that is to save cylinder meat for future rebuilds unless you have spare blocks laying around.

And you're right about the cam...a supercharger/nitrous Cam is better when you're spraying a lot. a good idea to use for a lot of Nitrous is an EGT in each exhaust runner and record temps through your stand alone.

The 150% rule is Garbage.. A good Motor on a safe tune you can spray 350, i've heard of 400 Just depends how well you are with tuning and how far you want to push it. Make sure you take all the right precautions/ coatings etc. when building a motor for that kind of hit and it'll be fine.

Also last but least..forget the 110 octane gas...You WILL need to run Like VP C16 or even Better VP N20 for Nitrous. Make sure you dyno tune and run stand alone.

Hope this helps a little

dropcivic

I was thinking along the lines of the race gas. I know the higher you go with the compression, the tighter the line for tuning is. I rather play a little bit safer on the compression side. Any recomendations on pistons?

How big of a shot are you running on your h22? I got a 125 shot on type-s pistons, soon to be a dpi through the euro-r manifold, just got to get home and get the time to do it

dropcivic

nobody else wants to send any insight in on this?

freakyty2.3

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dropcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nobody else wants to send any insight in on this?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You deff wanna either have dual fuel pumps or a Turbo style setup because with stages that big the pressure would drop and lean out. Bottle warmers are also a good idea with regulating relays.

dropcivic

yep, i was going to run a seperate fuel system for the nitrous and most likely run one bottle per soleniod for "less" pressure loss, try and keep it about 950 psi.

freakyty2.3

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dropcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yep, i was going to run a seperate fuel system for the nitrous and most likely run one bottle per soleniod for "less" pressure loss, try and keep it about 950 psi.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You don't have to go all out on another fuel system an inline pump with the stock fuel lines will work to about 500 hp. The bottle drop is not what you got to worry about its the fuel pressure drop when you are on the bottle. The bottle pressure drop will not affect it to much like the fuel drop causing you to lean out and melt parts.

dropcivic

I am teeing off the fuel line with another pump(and FPR) that turns on with the nitrous arming switch. I figure if i "set" my jets to 35 psi, then i will need that full 35 psi when the nitrous comes on. Same goes for the nitrous pills, if i set the pills to 900 psi, i want that 900 psi for as long in the run as i can.

Any ideas on pistons? I am thinking some type of piston with a really thick ring land between the #1 and #2 compression rings

freakyty2.3

[QUOTE=dropcivic]I am teeing off the fuel line with another pump(and FPR) that turns on with the nitrous arming switch. I figure if i "set" my jets to 35 psi, then i will need that full 35 psi when the nitrous comes on. Same goes for the nitrous pills, if i set the pills to 900 psi, i want that 900 psi for as long in the run as i can.

Any ideas on pistons? I am thinking some type of piston with a really thick ring land between the #1 and #2 compression rings[/QUOTE

I would go with Aries and tell them what your shooting for. I have JE and for some reason they shrink faster than the Aries ones I used to have. Aries was good for about 2 yrs of heating up from nitrous and shrinking back down before they staart making noise.