JDM 007

I was looking at the new Nitrous Express NXL Nozzle system and was wondering what (besides colder plugs) would you need to do to make it more safe to run on a Type R or a B16 since it is a direct plug and play and the entire nitrous system is self-contained in the high-flow fuel rail?

Would a Hondata help or is it a waist because of the unique setup?

Any comments would be appreciated.




"Nitrous Express introduces the "NXL" nozzle with Integrated Rail Technology. This plug-and-play, direct-port nozzle system is available for four, six, and eight cylinder applications. There is no drilling required, no engine disassembly and no solenoids to mount. The entire nitrous system is self-contained in the high-flow fuel rail. Systems come complete with bottle, jetting, custom insulated ditribution lines, and all installation hardware. This hi-tech direct port system comes with a wiring harness for a true plug-and-play system. The NXL and rail only took NX technicians 30 minutes to install on our R&D Honda Civic and the NXL made an astounding 90hp at the wheels in stock form."

JDM 007

Nobody has any nitrous experience that could help???

JDM 007

Anyone?
No thoughts?

redboost10

i had a direct port set up but dont know about any other set up

Soon_2b_evil

yeha i want that setup myself

Turbogixxer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM 007 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was looking at the new Nitrous Express NXL Nozzle system and was wondering what (besides colder plugs) would you need to do to make it more safe to run on a Type R or a B16 since it is a direct plug and play and the entire nitrous system is self-contained in the high-flow fuel rail?

Would a Hondata help or is it a waist because of the unique setup?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Before you can get a real answer for these questions, What shot you plan on running? what is your current set-up? It is hard to tell you if it would work if no one knows your set-up.

Turbo-Honda

Here a long tread about safty tip on nitrous.. It may helps you out alot.
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In order to be as safe as possible I would recommend “the basics” for anyone running nitrous. I am also going to assume that you already have an intake, header, and exhaust installed. The basics set-up will be the same for both dry and wet applications with the exception of a 255 lph fuel pump that is recommended for a wet set-up due to the increased fuel requirements.

1. Aftermarket ignition, wires, cap, rotor, and coil. MSD is the most popular brand. If you are on a budget then the MSD 6AL will work fine but if you have some extra cash to spend then the MSD Digital 6 is very nice to have. The great thing about the Digital 6 ignition is that it will automatically retard your timing when you activate the nitrous system and it has a dual stage rev limiter all built in! **Unless you are planning on getting a Jacobs Nitrous Mastermind, then the Digital 6 is my recommended ignition.**

2. Colder spark plugs. NGK bkr7e usually work fine. Make sure to always use copper plugs and avoid platinum and make double sure to gap them correctly.

3. Fuel pressure regulator. B&M is an excellent brand to get.

4. Timing change. The rule of thumb is 2 degrees for every 50 shot of nitrous. This is always under debate but to be absolutely safe use the rule of thumb.

5. A performance clutch because the stock clutch will probably not last long.

• 60 shot or less
“The basics” should be just fine. As noted above there is a constant debate over what exactly is needed. Some people will run a 50 shot with stock everything and be just fine while others will buy some extra parts to be safe. The bottom line is use your best judgment here.

• 60-70 shot
“The basics” and make absolutely sure to adjust your timing by one or two degrees.

• 75 shot
“The basics” and make sure to have you timing kicked back at least 3 degrees. This is also the maximum shot you want to use with a dry kit so unless you just want to blow your motor keep it here for all you dry kit guys. At this level you are probably most likely to see lean conditions and detonation therefore it might be a good idea to pick up an Apexi or Fields vtec/fuel computer so that you can control your fuel flow a little more.

• 75-100 shot
At this level you have officially entered wet kit territory so “The basics” and a 255 lph fuel pump are required. Some other goodies that you might want to seriously consider would be a Jacobs Nitrous Mastermind, an Apexi or Fields vtec controller, performance brakes, and motor mount inserts. Also since at this point you are spraying quite a bit of nitrous into the engine, building up the bottom end is an excellent idea. Some things to consider here would be forged pistons, rods, and crankshaft, and a port and polished head.

• 100+ shot
Once you reach this level you must be seriously racing. Everything that is listed for the 75-100 shot is required and an engine build-up and larger fuel injectors are a must now too. You will also want to look into getting a limited slip differential kit so that you can get traction. Once you reach this level you are going to have to be very familiar and comfortable with nitrous or an accident is just waiting to happen.

JDM 007

well turbogixxer at the moment I have a
AEM CAI, Hytech Header, Apexi N1 exhaust & NGK Power Cables.
I"m happy with the setup, have considered the full N/A, SC or Turbo route, but don't have the $$ to do it properly at the moment.
The appeal of that nitrous kit is that it is a plug&play system that seems to require very little add-ons.

I've read numerous threads on tuning nitrous and how beneficial it is, I guess I'm wondering what would I have to do with this setup?
Timing and plugs seem to be a necessary thing....but what else?

I believe I would only be getting the 60 shot if I decided to go that route.

Thanks again Turbo-Honda for the info!

Turbogixxer

If you are looking at a 60 shot max. I would get a Dry kit. It is cheap, less to install and most important, less room for error. You can run more than a 60 shot (75, and a 100 with proper tuning/fuel).

Do not let fools tell you that Dry kits are **** and cant support big HP. A kit I set-up for a friend has a 400 shot of dry shot. With enough tuning, fuel and bottom-end, it is possible (the car is not a import).

Tips to install: Start with the lowest jet in the kit and work your way up, DO NOT start with the shot you want right away (if your shot is the smallest in the kit, then yes). After starting with the smallest jet, take the car out and spray it. Coming back home and pull the plug and see if there is detiation. (you can see small spots on the spark plug, the spot are actually pieces of your piston.) Then go to the next shot, then repeat until you get to the shot you want.


I hope that helps.

JDM 007

Turbogixxer what do you think of the kit I listed in the first post?
Would it have to be tuned at a 60 shot or could I simply "plug and play" like it sais?

It is supposed to be a "worry free" kit as it is self-contained....

Turbogixxer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM 007 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Turbogixxer what do you think of the kit I listed in the first post?
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It is a great kit, but overkill if you want a 60 shot. That kit is more for bigger shot than what you want. Can you still use that kit? yes, but the money for the kit and HP you will get with a 60 shot is not cost-effective. You can easily spray a 60 shot dry with no problems at all.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM 007 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Would it have to be tuned at a 60 shot or could I simply "plug and play" like it sais?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It is a easy WET kit to install. Dry is not that much harder. You will do about the same work for a dry kit as you would for the NXL kit. Remember, Nitrous kits are only as good as the install/tuning. If you do not do it right, you may have problems. Nitrous does not blow your motor up, you do.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM 007 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It is supposed to be a "worry free" kit as it is self-contained....</TD></TR></TABLE>

No such thing. If you mess up the kit install or do dumb **** with nitrous, believe me, it will not be worry free. Look into dry kits, you can pick them up for cheap and they will suit your needs.

But I tell you this now, With nitrous, it is easy to get HP hungry. It is easy to make power with nitrous and cheap. If you change anything with the nitrous system (aka add more power) check your plugs, you will be surprised how little change can **** everything up.