well the search feature isnt working today for some reason.
im thinking about running nitrious on my 95 GSR.
internally its stock, with i/h/e, nothing to major. also the car is a daily driver, so im thinking of something smaller like a 50 shot. ive been told i should get the WET? could someone please give me some info on this stuff im a little new to it and having a hell of a time trying to find some info.. whats the difference b/w wet and dry? whats a fogger? whats a good brand name kit? where can i buy a new kit from, for a good price? also anything else i should know?

 

anyone????

 

bump!?

 

I'd go with a basic NX single fogger kit. check Sponsor Marketplace forum

 

Basically, wet is nitrous and fuel running through the fogger, dry is just nitrous through the fogger. The fogger is what relays the nitrous and fuel from the lines/bottle/fuel lines etc. into your intake/intake manifold or wherever (it's the actual piece that connects to where you're spraying the nitrous into). NX makes a great kit. NOS does too. I have used both. I personally like NX a bit better. That's what I'm using now. If your motor is in good condition a 75 shot would be fine. Summit, Jegs, Sponsors on here all sell them, usually 400-500 bucks for a decent kit.

 

I have seen a few friends have alot of fun with the ZEX 75 wet shot on internaly stock motors. And as far as i know they are still running. But eventualy you should look into forged internals.

 

yeah def. but at this moment i dont think im going to change internals, maybe in the summer we'll see.. ok thanks for the info fellas!

 

are u seriously ready for nitrous ? there are no mistaked to be made....just think of all the times u have mis shifted......u do that on nitrous and ur engine is done ....it would be a shame to see a c1 destroyed......plus b-series blocks stock internals ive seen them take a 125 shot with proper tunning and fuels system direct port of course.....go big or go home a 50 shot is just a waste of time and money....

 

thanks for your opinion.. im sure someone else cared..lol

 

I like the dry kits for the little shots(50-75hp) the best its easy to use and pretty safe.

I ran a 70 shot NOS dry skit on my stock type-r for along time with no problems.
My 92 Civic CX with that set up went 12.20 weighing 2350w/ driver.

The things that you need to do are make sure that you use a 255lph fuel pump and make sure that you use hose clamps or something to keep the vacuums lines on the regulater because if the line blows off you will burn it up.

 

NOS-5122 Dry Kit

http://www.holley.com/products...22NOS

NOS-5130 Wet Kit

http://www.holley.com/products...30NOS

Either one of these kits are good for a mostly stock motor. The kit that I would suggest would be the NOS-5130. The reason that I say that is because that kit can "grow" with you more so then the NOS-5122. That way if you do beef the motor up a little bit more, you can very easily adjust that kit to produce more power. It is adjustable from 50-150 additional hp. Although, I have seen them usually top out for the single nozzle at about 125 additional HP. After that, I would suggest a direct port set up.

Keep in mind tuning, timing, and being able to read the plugs with the nitrous. Not to mention you want to maintain a stable bottle temp/pressure to keep the kit performing consistent.

Good luck,

Jason

 

dont use a dry kit worst kit of them all if you gonna use n20 atleast go wet single fogger

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nonvtecallmotor &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> make sure that you use hose clamps or something to keep the vacuums lines on the regulater because if the line blows off you will burn it up.</TD></TR></TABLE>

which lines are you talking about? u got a pic of where u need the hose clamps? (i guess any engine bay shot would work, just point to where u need the hose clamps.)

 

The vacuum line that attaches the fuel regulator to your intake manifold.

The fuel regulator is on the right side of the fuel rail.

 

yup yup.... Personally i prefer a dry shot at or about 50-65 sot depending on how the car is tuned an what kind of timing you are running... i beleive you need to RETARD the timing anywhere from 1/2 to a full degree for every 50 shots of the "JUGG" lol.. i had a 91 DA with 174+k miles on before it began to smoke cuz of a cracked ring land and a totally desinagrated top compression ring... i have nitrous on the car for 2 years and it was really decent.... would i go N2O again??? heck yes... ( currently built turbo b16a )

 

Ohh yeah.. i meant to mention i had the "Purple Pill Kit" ZEX with the brain module... i believe its the best kit because if your fuel pressure isnt up to par and or the intake manifold pressure isnt high enough, the kit will not spray or spray a full " whatever shot you have " until its safe...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kdawgy2k1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yup yup.... Personally i prefer a dry shot at or about 50-65 sot depending on how the car is tuned an what kind of timing you are running... i beleive you need to RETARD the timing anywhere from 1/2 to a full degree for every 50 shots of the "JUGG" lol.. i had a 91 DA with 174+k miles on before it began to smoke cuz of a cracked ring land and a totally desinagrated top compression ring... i have nitrous on the car for 2 years and it was really decent.... would i go N2O again??? heck yes... ( currently built turbo b16a )</TD></TR></TABLE>

do you have any idea why you cracked a ring land ? trust me when i tell you i have had all three n20 setups and blew up a couple of times dry is the worst poor distribution too much n20 to 1 cylinder, single fogger is ok has better distribution of n20 to all the cylinders and directport is the **** even distribution through out all cylinders . if you are going to go bigger than a 80 shot direct port all the way if not single fogger (wet)