I reciently rebuilt my motor, about 5000 miles ago or so, just a guess. Anyways, the reason i rebuilt it was beacuse i thought the piston rings got washed and were letting oil out the exhaust. I have je pistons and crower rods. Well its started to go through alot of oil, maybe 3/4 a qt a week, but its leaking the the oil pan gasket < im replacing that this weekend, leaking from the valve cover bolt, <replacing that this weekend too but my main concern is that it appears to be leaking right above the B18c1 stamp from between the head and the block. When i rebuilt the motor i *didnt* deck the head which is why im sure is leaking their. The same type of carbon looking stuff that was coming out the of the exhasut before is still doing it but only when you first start it up ona cold morning so ive been just chaulking that up to the fact that the fordged pistons need to warm up and expand first.

Today i decided to pull the oil pan to inspect, upon draining the il there was a slight greeny area in the drain pan when looked at, at the right angle kinda had a more glimering effect. The oil didnt seem too milky but it did look a little diffrent thatn normal. There was some signs of coolant leaking from somewhere on the back of the motor, the the over flow bottle is only slightly lower than where it normally is.

My delemia is that im broke and dont have alot of money to put into the motor to try and fix it and i do want to sell the car. Id like to try and ride the motor out like this for the rest of the year if possible, i dont know the potential damage of just adding oil to a leaking headgasket on a boosted engine.

My car is about to go into the body shop so if i was gonna do something to the motor now would be the time while its in the shop and i cant drive it anyways.

 

Carlos Mencia says" DER da DER" If you have a problem fix it. Plain and simple why you did not get the head decked and check the block for warpage is a good question to ask yourself. Those who cut corners end up paying for it twice when it is really cheaper to do it right the first time

 

One other thing are those JE pistons for use with MID sleeves or stock cylinders. Alot of aftermarket pistons suggest using MID sleeves with their products. Pistons do not need to expand for a good seal; your rings are filed to fit a specific ring gap for your cylinders. This gap is also specific to NA or FI setups, naturally the FI route requires a larger ring gap. All this should have been in the installation instructions for the pistons. The pistions are designed to expand and contract with engine temperatures, but this has nothing to do with your ring seal. Did you follow the motoman break in procedures to fully seat your rings?