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ok so i wanna build a b-series that will make around 400 hp. im either gonna use a b18b1 or a b20. now ive heard of some cars doing this with stock blocks but i dont wanna have a crappy car...i have the means to buy strong quality parts to help strengthen the motor enough to handle the power. im trying not to go over 500 hp because i dont want to sleeve the motor but if i have too i will..so for 400 hp what should go b20 or ls. what pistons and rods should i use that are close to stock but can handle boost well. also could i daily a 400 hp honda...im trying to build a strong sorta reliable car
Unless this is going to be a car that is tracked often I'd post this in the turbo forum for the best results. If this is a car that will be hitting the track we can offer more advice. I would not do more than about 300 on the stock block. Reliable 400hp is doable with pistons and rods on stock sleeves.
I daily drove a 300hp 100% stock block turbo b16 for 8 years. Now it's a track only car still running the same block and just now starting to get some blow by from one of the pistons. The engine has been turbo'd since 2005 and in the car since 2002. A good tune and proper cooling makes all the difference in longevity.
Please see the FAQs highlighted in Grey at the top of the Forced Induction forum. Read read read. Comeback, then read again. B18A/B have completely different characteristics and nuances then the B20. If you're running a B18C/1/5 etc. please state that. Also please put a location or region in your profile as different areas of the country/ world have different issues and irregularities you may have to be concerned with.
Unless this is going to be a car that is tracked often I'd post this in the turbo forum for the best results. If this is a car that will be hitting the track we can offer more advice. I would not do more than about 300 on the stock block. Reliable 400hp is doable with pistons and rods on stock sleeves.
I daily drove a 300hp 100% stock block turbo b16 for 8 years. Now it's a track only car still running the same block and just now starting to get some blow by from one of the pistons. The engine has been turbo'd since 2005 and in the car since 2002. A good tune and proper cooling makes all the difference in longevity.
no i wont be taking the car to the track..i drive it back and forth to work. Wich is why i want it to be sorta reliable.. i wont be ******* the car everyday just on the days im late lol. And i plan on buying pistons and rods just to make it strong but i want the closest pistons to stock to avoid having to hone or sleeve the block..so basically i want a stock block just with stronger internals to be able to handle the 400 horses. I really want a b20 because theyre cheaper and esier to find..now could i make a strong and reliable 400 hp b20..and what pistons and rods should u use
Please see the FAQs highlighted in Grey at the top of the Forced Induction forum. Read read read. Comeback, then read again. B18A/B have completely different characteristics and nuances then the B20. If you're running a B18C/1/5 etc. please state that. Also please put a location or region in your profile as different areas of the country/ world have different issues and irregularities you may have to be concerned with.
im either going to use a b18b1 or a b20. So for my money whats better to spend and build. A 400 hp b18b1 or a b20. Also i live in alabama. And thanks for the thread i take a look at it. But some threads have different explanations as to sleeveing the block or using oversized pistons or rods with a longer stroke.or trying to make more power then i need.now since ive seen some cars make this on a stock block. Im looking for pistons and rods that are the closest to stock just stronger to prevent broken rods or blown pistons. And like i said I DO NOT WANT TO SLEEVE THE MOTOR
Relax, you're fine. No one mentioned anything about sleeving or CSS CNC WERX or whatever. You're merging all of the information together, when they work a bit separately for the B-series. Some need additional attention to detail over others. Sleeving isn't necessary for 400whp, but pay attention to the dates that the information is coming in. That makes a difference.
Honestly, the B20 is a bad idea due to the design of the cylinder liners that are prone to be a bit more "delicate" than the B18B. I know you're thinking displacement as well as cost, but there's a reason why the B20s are cheaper, and that's because not as many people want to go high compression NA as they used to. The B18B on the other hand, is a much more robust block to work with. Add a VTEC head to that (LS/VTEC) and you have a serious powerhouse w/ torque for turbocharger. LS and LSVTEC require different turbochargers as their efficiencies are vastly different, even if you work on the B18B head with camshafts and portwork. You still won't be as efficient as a VTEC head, but you'll be just fine for your goals.
Stick with a nice Skunk2 Rod (w/ARP2000 studs in them already) and your choice of forged aluminum piston from Wiseco, Arias, JE, or Ross, and you'll be fine when you want to go over 400whp. For 300whp, you can keep the block stock as long as you check the bearings, perform the right leakdown tests, etc, and you're fine.
I Have had a b18 block on a b16 head for years non sleeved just block guard almost making 600 no issues with the block, daily driven too and taken to the track
Relax, you're fine. No one mentioned anything about sleeving or CSS CNC WERX or whatever. You're merging all of the information together, when they work a bit separately for the B-series. Some need additional attention to detail over others. Sleeving isn't necessary for 400whp, but pay attention to the dates that the information is coming in. That makes a difference.
Honestly, the B20 is a bad idea due to the design of the cylinder liners that are prone to be a bit more "delicate" than the B18B. I know you're thinking displacement as well as cost, but there's a reason why the B20s are cheaper, and that's because not as many people want to go high compression NA as they used to. The B18B on the other hand, is a much more robust block to work with. Add a VTEC head to that (LS/VTEC) and you have a serious powerhouse w/ torque for turbocharger. LS and LSVTEC require different turbochargers as their efficiencies are vastly different, even if you work on the B18B head with camshafts and portwork. You still won't be as efficient as a VTEC head, but you'll be just fine for your goals.
Stick with a nice Skunk2 Rod (w/ARP2000 studs in them already) and your choice of forged aluminum piston from Wiseco, Arias, JE, or Ross, and you'll be fine when you want to go over 400whp. For 300whp, you can keep the block stock as long as you check the bearings, perform the right leakdown tests, etc, and you're fine.
thanks for some good info..and you hit another debate i was wondering about...now a ls-v is great but i read there are lots of problems with the head gasket specially if its getting boost. I was wanting to buy the wiseco pistons cause i heard good things about them and they come at a good price. And yes i will use aftermarket bearings and all that. I plan on leaving the stock crank.. if i can find just a ls block i will try and see if i can find a vtec head to work on if not im just gonna get and build the ls for boost..
thanks for some good info..and you hit another debate i was wondering about...now a ls-v is great but i read there are lots of problems with the head gasket specially if its getting boost. I was wanting to buy the wiseco pistons cause i heard good things about them and they come at a good price. And yes i will use aftermarket bearings and all that. I plan on leaving the stock crank.. if i can find just a ls block i will try and see if i can find a vtec head to work on if not im just gonna get and build the ls for boost..
You've read either old information, or they weren't doing it right. Usually issues resulted because they either didn't put in the correct dowel for the oil to reach the head, or they used the wrong HG. This is why you gotta look at those dates of information you're reading. Anything before 2004, Don't worry about.
I use OEM bearings, NEVER aftermarket for a build like this. (I've got over 600-700whp on OEM bearings.) I said check the bearings, didn't say you needed to replace them.
You're better off doing the full LS for now, since you're new at this part. VTEC heads go up in price nowadays, and it's within your best interest to put that money to better turbocharger parts and management than worrying about a VTEC head right now.
Here's what I would typically do in a scenario like this for a customer/client:
Use the B18A/B; I personally wouldn't use the B20 if sleeving it wasn't in the immediate plans with boost.
Use a good piston rod combo (typically a Manley Rod/Wiseco/ACL setup) with a set of ARP studs and a clutch.
Sort your fuel/tuning out.
Then we'd turbo it to meet the goal with their kit/turbo of choice (mixed w/ our recommendations).
Happy camper.
3-400whp can come fairly easily and stress free when done properly with matching/complimenting parts that work well as a system paired with a solid tune.
Here's what I would typically do in a scenario like this for a customer/client:
Use the B18A/B; I personally wouldn't use the B20 if sleeving it wasn't in the immediate plans with boost.
Use a good piston rod combo (typically a Manley Rod/Wiseco/ACL setup) with a set of ARP studs and a clutch.
Sort your fuel/tuning out.
Then we'd turbo it to meet the goal with their kit/turbo of choice (mixed w/ our recommendations).
Happy camper.
3-400whp can come fairly easily and stress free when done properly with matching/complimenting parts that work well as a system paired with a solid tune.
^ These guys should be your first stop choice for a turbo kit on this build. Very knowledgeable, great customer service, fantastic quality.
I'd also recommend the LS block over the B20 if you're avoiding sleeves.
Here's what I would typically do in a scenario like this for a customer/client:
Use the B18A/B; I personally wouldn't use the B20 if sleeving it wasn't in the immediate plans with boost.
Use a good piston rod combo (typically a Manley Rod/Wiseco/ACL setup) with a set of ARP studs and a clutch.
Sort your fuel/tuning out.
Then we'd turbo it to meet the goal with their kit/turbo of choice (mixed w/ our recommendations).
Happy camper.
3-400whp can come fairly easily and stress free when done properly with matching/complimenting parts that work well as a system paired with a solid tune.
Thanks for the information...also what would need to be done to the head for it to hold also...im gonna buy new valves spring retainers all that...would i need cams or could the oem ones hold up pretty good?
Thanks for the information...also what would need to be done to the head for it to hold also...im gonna buy new valves spring retainers all that...would i need cams or could the oem ones hold up pretty good?
For the 300-400 you can use OEM cams. Valvetrain could go both ways.... plenty of people doing it on OEM but i would recommend supertech valvetrain.
Unless this is going to be a car that is tracked often I'd post this in the turbo forum for the best results. If this is a car that will be hitting the track we can offer more advice. I would not do more than about 300 on the stock block. Reliable 400hp is doable with pistons and rods on stock sleeves.
I daily drove a 300hp 100% stock block turbo b16 for 8 years. Now it's a track only car still running the same block and just now starting to get some blow by from one of the pistons. The engine has been turbo'd since 2005 and in the car since 2002. A good tune and proper cooling makes all the difference in longevity.
What cooling stuff did you use? I'm going b18 ls w/ jdm b16 head hx35 turbo
06-13-2017, 04:27 PM
Newbie In the Building! B series turbo build
