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Old 03-14-2007, 07:49 AM
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Default New to this thing called FI...

So Im jumping into FI soon and have a couple of questions about my planned setup. First Here is the build list. Im shooting for about 300whp on a D16 del Sol.

Turbo GT2860RS $1,175.00
Injectors Honda 500cc $200.00
Manifold Log style $115.00
Oil Lines Generic $50.00
Wastgate Tial 38mm $190.00
BOV Greddy $170.00
Downpipe eBay $110.00
Intercooler eBay $60.00
IC Piping eBay $95.00
Fuel Pump Walboro 255 $100
Headgasket $50
Pistons Vitara 8.5:1 $145
Rods Eagle H-beam $350
Clutch 6 puck $146

First, have I missed anything and do the prices look about right?

Second, and more importantly, what do you guys think the reliability of this setup will be. I will tune it down if I need to. I put quite a few miles on the car as its a DD.

Also since its a DD do any of you know if AC can be retained? This is whats going to make and break what I do as AC is not going away from my car.
Thanks in advance!
Old 03-14-2007, 07:59 AM
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management and tuning.....
Old 03-14-2007, 08:01 AM
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Default Re: (Schister66)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Schister66 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">management and tuning.....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ah Im thinking right now it will be tuned on Chrome or Uberdata.
Old 03-14-2007, 08:39 AM
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Default Re: (LowSlow93Sol)

AC can be retained - if you put a tight-radius elbow on the turbo. You'll also have to make sure the manifold will allow the cold side (compressor) to be on the passenger side. I doubt that a $115 manifold will be designed all that well to support AC, let alone a generic ebay downpipe. Using those two will be a sure way to have to remove your AC compressor, and most likely the manifold will place the wastegate in a fasion that will require the removal of your condensor. Both of those are required for AC The ebay piping is usually made for the non-AC setup, but thats usually just a matter of an extra coupler, straight piping, and some cutting.

First I'll suggest not having very high goals or expectations for your first FI project. Thats why most n00bs add boost, blow their motor (or have severe problems), then go back to OEM NA motors. Do not expect this to all happen in a day or two, especially if your new to FI. Unless you buy a full kit that was pulled (100% intact) from a working car, you will have issues with fitment, tuning, etc, meaning you will need to buy a bus pass or a beater to drive around in.

Second, I would not recomend a GT-series for your first turbo, especially with generic oil lines. There seems to be a weekly thread on here about someone cooking their ball bearing turbo because the restrictor wasn't small enough, or they didn't even run one.

You don't jump into boost like a warm pool, you ease into it like its the vagina of a girl who's four brothers and father are all known felons who carry guns and are over-protective of that girl.
Old 03-14-2007, 08:57 AM
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Default Re: (HiProfile)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ease into it like its the vagina of a girl who's four brothers and father are all known felons who carry guns and are over-protective of that girl.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Is there something you want to tell us? Maybe like a personal experience?
Old 03-14-2007, 08:58 AM
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Good advice. I want to go big with the setup but.. your right maybe I need to rethink some things... so now the question turns to "what turbo should I use for a first timer?" (Im still gonna build the motor)

:edit: The T3 Mani I may get from Aaron (sovXietday) for a good price other wise a log would cost 275ish.
Old 03-14-2007, 09:43 AM
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You should be spending about 3x more for a better IC, and ATLEAST 2x more for a manifold. A cast manifold just isnt a cast manifold. I have heard some disgusting stories of the cheap manifolds.

You're spending... decent... cash on some of the gear, so help yourself and spend just a few bills more. good luck

Oh, remember this, you get what you pay for with tuning. you're friend with the lc-1 doesnt know jack **** lol
Old 03-14-2007, 10:23 AM
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If you are willing to spend $1200 on a turbo don't use a shitty *** log manifold.
Old 03-14-2007, 10:30 AM
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Default Re: (GetawayInMoscow)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GetawayInMoscow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you are willing to spend $1200 on a turbo don't use a shitty *** log manifold.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That kind of got me as well.

I would plan on spending at least two or three times more on the manifold than you have listed. Also, I would steer clear of the ebay piping and just build your own, it will fit better and be cheaper.

Oh, and anyone who has built a turbo system or two will tell you, take your budget that you plan on spending on everything, then add at least 50% more on there, then be prepared to spend a **** ton of money that you didn't expect to spend.

I just finished up a turbo project that I planned really carefully, taking into account my previous experience building turbo systems, and little stuff here and there still made me go way over budget.

Going over budget is pretty much a fact of life for forced induction people.

Don't worry though, it's worth it
Old 03-14-2007, 10:46 AM
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Default Re: (EJ1 wilcox)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJ1 wilcox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Oh, and anyone who has built a turbo system or two will tell you, take your budget that you plan on spending on everything, then add at least 50% more on there, then be prepared to spend a **** ton of money that you didn't expect to spend.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I totally agree with Wilcox. I planned out my setup meticulously and spent several months putting it all together. Over the last week or so, I ended up spending a lot of money on fittings, hoses, gaskets, tools, and lots of other crap I didn't even realize I'd need.

One piece of advice -- don't buy anything used. Even if you think you know enough to buy the right used stuff, you probably don't. I bought some little things that I thought I could get away with buying used, and it turns out that I'll have to end up selling almost all of it.

Also, I've decided that these budget build guys who run 12's for 1300 dollars are full of crap. The stories of those builds convinced me it wouldn't cost that much to go turbo, but it costs a lot.

The ebay downpipe's going to be a waste of money unless you have cutting and welding tools. You'd be better off buying a manifold, downpipe, dumptube, hardware package from a sponsor.
Old 03-14-2007, 10:54 AM
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Default Re: (GetawayInMoscow)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GetawayInMoscow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you are willing to spend $1200 on a turbo don't use a shitty *** log manifold.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Fair enough does anyone know what it would cost to have a manifold fabbed up to retain AC and flow decently?

BTW the Ebay piping is one of those kits that includes several types of straight, 90* elbows, and angled piping but having it welded by a shop may be the best route anyways.

I had pondered the idea of a 16g but finding a good manifold for that is damn near impossible without spending a ton of money. Looks like Ill have to save my pennies and not skimp on the other stuff, since 'reliable' isn't something I want to let go of.

:edit: Ill scratch the Ebay dp and probably the ic stuff as well.
Old 03-14-2007, 11:26 AM
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i wouldnt buy that turbo. Way too much money. for 300whp i would get a t3t04e. And spend maybe $500. It would save you 600+ bux. Thats just what i would do. but if you want to spend that type of money on a d16 thats your issue.
Old 03-14-2007, 11:29 AM
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also arp head studs.
Old 03-14-2007, 11:34 AM
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Default Re: (92redhatch)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92redhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also arp head studs.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Noted


The reason why I wanted to get the 28RS is simply because it spools very well for the power I want to make. 300 is my goal but I also want something that is at boost by about 4k. Plus its BB

Road racing/Auto x &gt; Drag racing
Old 03-14-2007, 12:15 PM
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Default Re: (92redhatch)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92redhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i wouldnt buy that turbo. Way too much money. for 300whp i would get a t3t04e. And spend maybe $500. It would save you 600+ bux. Thats just what i would do. but if you want to spend that type of money on a d16 thats your issue.</TD></TR></TABLE>
.
Old 03-14-2007, 12:24 PM
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Default Re: New to this thing called FI... (LowSlow93Sol)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LowSlow93Sol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So Im jumping into FI soon and have a couple of questions about my planned setup. First Here is the build list. Im shooting for about 300whp on a D16 del Sol.

Turbo GT2860RS $1,175.00
Injectors Honda 500cc $200.00
Manifold Log style $115.00
Oil Lines Generic $50.00
Wastgate Tial 38mm $190.00
BOV Greddy $170.00
Downpipe eBay $110.00
Intercooler eBay $60.00
IC Piping eBay $95.00
Fuel Pump Walboro 255 $100
Headgasket $50
Pistons Vitara 8.5:1 $145
Rods Eagle H-beam $350
Clutch 6 puck $146

First, have I missed anything and do the prices look about right? </TD></TR></TABLE>

yes.... good tuning.... ..... $priceless
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