Vtec's My Anti-Drug

So heres my problem.
I have a 95 Integra Ls Turbo. I blew a piston apart
in my old motor so i ordered a new motor from Hmotors.
However the only motor they could ever seem to get in
was an OBD2 Ls. He told me with switching a couple things
that it would be fine. So i swaped the motors and switched the
distributors( I run MSD external coil), the crank pully, alt, and
i think thats about it. I fired the car up and I'm Throwing cell 14
which is idle air control valve. I took the sensor off my old motor
and put it on the new motor and i'm still throwing the code. I checked
all wires to make sure they are going to the right place and they
are. Also when i rev my car it will hesitate and seem to miss
at about 3grand but then will rev higher after the miss. When i went
to drive the car down the drive way it had no power what so ever.
It wouldnt even make it up a slight hill with about a 30degree incline.
I can't figure out whats wrong with it so I'm thinking maybe somebody
on here will. I am running the same exact setup on this motor as my
old one which was running absolutely fine before the swap. I don't think
it really matters but here is my setup

OBD2 LS stock
Inline pro Manifold and downpipe
T3/T4 57trim turbonetics turbo
Tial Blow off valve
CP racing wastegate and FMIC
RC 750 injectors
Walbro 255hp fuel pump
JK tuning base map on ecu.(which was fine with old motor also)

jchrm80

iTrader: (1)

stupid question but when you switched distributors did you retime it with a timing light?

inspector01

Really???Really??

check your sensor plugs on your intake manifold, im going to bet that you have you iacv plug switched around. Also check your ignition timing, cam timing, and then go get it tuned so you dont have to buy another motor.....

blwn95civic

Get it tuned properly and dont drive it to see wats wrong when you have a check engine light. Check engine light means refer to manual not take it up the road and see wat happens

Vtec's My Anti-Drug

When the piston blew apart I had it tuned with AEM and was running 12lbs at the time. It blew up because previous owner always ran nitrous and motor was weak. Also I drove with the base tune just never really got on the car and was only running 6lbs. The previous motor ran fine untill i bumped the boost and had it tuned with AEM. The base tune is sufficient enough to get the car running right and to limp it to wherever i get it tuned. Just runs a little rich.


I have checked all plugs on the intake like 10 times and they are all good. I labeled them before i took them off. I even switched the plugs around a couple times just to be sure and still have the problem. I know so many people on here and problems with the IACV but no body ever really finds out the problem. On the old motor I had the IACV eliminated and a coolant line run straight from the thermostat hole to the water pipe on the back of the motor and it ran absolutly fine. I was told it was beter that way. I've tried both ways this time but its still throwing the code but never threw it before. Would the coolant level have anything to do with it? I know someone said that if there is air bubbles in the coolant that this may happen... is this true?

any help would be great. I'm stumped

B16Drag

Not sure about this, but may be worthwhile making sure the wirings on each plug is the same on OBD1 and OBD2 sensors Have fun following wires...

Vtec's My Anti-Drug

bump

Vtec's My Anti-Drug

bump bump.

Vtec's My Anti-Drug

anyone?

POORMANT

did u ever unplug ur battry if not code will not reset and make sure u didnt switch the map sensor plug with the throttle position sensor plug lmk

Vtec's My Anti-Drug

Yeah I've reset it a couple times. The map and Tps are right also.. thanks though

Hybrid96EK

So the only thing you really used from Hmotors was the longblock, correct? Did you change the wiring also? The ECU? anything else?

Vtec's My Anti-Drug

correct.. Everything is exactly the same the only thing new is the long block. I've read to clean the fast idle thermo valve? would this effect my IACV?

Hybrid96EK

I've been working on Hondas specifically since 1996. In this time I have NEVER fixed an idle air control valve by cleaning it. Thats not to say its not possible, just not something I would support. If you have the code and you have swapped with a known good IACV then I would suspect a wiring issue.

Vtec's My Anti-Drug

anyone know what volts the plug wires should read?

b20beast83

which harness did u use
the old one right

do a compression test
and verify the cam timing

093turbo16

iTrader: (2)

One pin (yel/blk) on the iacv should be 12V, the other side (blk/blue) goes back to the ECU which is a pulsed ground.

I would do a compression check on the motor and see if the motor is healthy. Also check the actual timing.. meaning check the cam/crank to make sure everything lines up.

Vtec's My Anti-Drug

Yeah I used the same harness. I'm going to check all wires and hopefully one got cut or pinched and thats my problem but I'll still do a compression check as soon as i can borrow a guage and I'll also check timing again. Thanks for the help.

I've been searching like crazy about the cel 14 and a lot of people also have the problem of the bogging down around 2-3 grand so I'm hoping i can figure out the cell and that will be my only problem. Does anyone know if its better to just bypass the fast idle thermo valve or to actually have it connected. My old motor just had a coolant line running straight from the thermostat outlet to the water pipe in the back of the motor leaving the FITV just basically eliminated? anyone know the pros and cons of this? thanks again

up to the top!

Hybrid96EK

The FITV and the IACV are two different things, make sure you understand that. The FITV is designed to further increase the idle on a cold engine. While you CAN leave it disconnected, I wouldn't reccomend it. Also, code 14 has nothing to do with the FITV, just so you know.

B16Drag

Like I said, time to start tracing wires and plugs...