a friend of mine told me about some kind of liquid mold that can be poured into the block in the place of the sleeve, and then drilled out round the edges. it is supposedly cheap and can handle high boost pressures. has anyone heard of or done this ? thanks

 

http://www.d-series.org/forums...31748

 

Wtf! huh? I never heard of anything like that before, seriously doubt it also.

"Mold" and "reliability" should not be in the same sentence, wish it were that easy though.

Brain

 

Heres another link https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1444721

 

the V8 guys have been doing this for years...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Brain3208 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wtf! huh? I never heard of anything like that before, seriously doubt it also.

"Mold" and "reliability" should not be in the same sentence, wish it were that easy though.

Brain</TD></TR></TABLE>


Wow .

Block filling is by no means a "new" process. However, it is typically viewed as "ghetto", hence the lack of popularity.

 

thanks for all of the responses, has anyone on ht done this with success? boost numbers??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alex_s817 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for all of the responses, has anyone on ht done this with success? boost numbers??</TD></TR></TABLE>

check the links....some guy with a gsr is boosting 21psi

 

Pay for shi* get shi*

 

wdf? dont bash it if ya havnt tried it. It looks like a great way to get more boost out of a stock sleeved vehicle really cheaply.

 

So how are the cylinders supposed to cool if you surround them with this cement?
You won't have to worry about boost cracking your cylinders because the heat will already have cracked them. This stuff is ok for methanol powered cars or maybe quarter mile only cars but I could not ever see it used on the street.

 

thats good if your pushing your car to the line makeing a pass and shuting dow for atleast a half hour ,,this is what i used to do in the late 80s with american cars and that was with the block only filled half way with block cement

 

There isn't a problem with cooling because the cement is only an inch or so thick. The process is basically like creating a perfectly fitted block guard.

 

and where is that inch of cement at?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So how are the cylinders supposed to cool if you surround them with this cement?
You won't have to worry about boost cracking your cylinders because the heat will already have cracked them. This stuff is ok for methanol powered cars or maybe quarter mile only cars but I could not ever see it used on the street.</TD></TR></TABLE>

By drilling holes in the concrete.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So how are the cylinders supposed to cool if you surround them with this cement?
You won't have to worry about boost cracking your cylinders because the heat will already have cracked them. This stuff is ok for methanol powered cars or maybe quarter mile only cars but I could not ever see it used on the street.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h22 civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and where is that inch of cement at?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's the stuff that's poured around the sleeves (cement, epoxy, call it what you will). It doesn't fill all the way to the bottom of the sleeves. It's only an inch thick.

There are no cooling issues! It's just like a block guard.

 

How do you get it to remain only at the top of the block, pour it in with the block upside down and the deck sealed flat?

 

I wouldn't want a large temperature difference in the sleeve from the top to a little over an inch down though..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rorik &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How do you get it to remain only at the top of the block, pour it in with the block upside down and the deck sealed flat?</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's what the salt is for. Did any of you guys read the damn post before spewing your two cents?! There are two separate links that detail the entire process.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rorik &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I wouldn't want a large temperature difference in the sleeve from the top to a little over an inch down though..</TD></TR></TABLE>


According to the laws of thermodynamics, that's not going to happen.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So how are the cylinders supposed to cool if you surround them with this cement? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Since the top of the sleeve is not where the sleeve cracks...

Since the top of the sleeve is not where you fill...

Since the top of the sleeve is where the sleeve is hottest...

Since the greatest disparity in thermal transfer takes place at the greatest temperature differential, which is not where you pour...

... why should we care about "cooling"??

I've maintained for some time that most people pour their epoxy too high. Nothing wrong with the idea.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h22 civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and where is that inch of cement at?</TD></TR></TABLE>

from the top down was the answer i was looking for