Pellegrini808

hey guys I got a b16a2 with new 9:0:1 cp pistons eagle rods, and acl bearings. when i picked it up from by builder i took it 45 minutes to the tuner to get the a/f ratio perfect and break it in a little bit on the dyno. i have 500 miles on the new build and have gone into boost maybe 6 times, trying to take it easy on it. im going for the first oil change tomorrow still using some conventional 10W 30 for break in. i use usually run 10W 40 motul fully syntehtic on my car, when can i put the synthetic in?

motoxxxman

should typically wait til it has at least 2000-3000 miles. probably closer to 3000 for you if you're babying it so much

Runnerdown

You can put synthetic in anytime. Waiting XX miles is not necessary but old myths die hard. At this point you are well broken in anyway.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

Motor should be properly run in to seat the rings with a quality break in oil. After the rings seat there is no longer anything to "break in" and you can run synthetics.

motoxxxman

exactly. but babying it makes it take way longer for the rings to seat.
I tore my engine down at 1300 miles due to broken ringlands, and the rings STILL hadn't fully seated yet. and I beat the snot out of it lol (conventional oil the entire time). well the top rings had seated, but the 2nd rings were not fully seated yet. cylinders were honed with 600 grit instead of 400, so that may have had something to do with it.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

The rings fully seat in 10-20 minutes if you do it properly. You just didn't run in the engine the right way.

MR.johnson

YUP, first start up its ready to make power after a few pulls and an oil change.

motoxxxman

I sure did, I'm extremely picky about stuff like that. it's because I had the cyls honed with 600 grit this time around. apparently that's too fine of texture. back to the standard 400 grit from here on out for me. hell, most honing is done with 220grit unless you request differently.

DC4KiD

iTrader: (4)

Holy crap that's a lot of miles to 'break-in' a new build.

This is what I do with newly-built engines:

01 - Load up a decent base map
02 - Start engine, check oil level, let fans cycle twice
03 - Check for leaks/noise
04 - Change oil & filter (with your preferred choice)
05 - Drive to tuner to get dyno-tuned



Have had ZERO problems on all the engines I've built, and they happen to be all built for boost.

RogueRacingTrey

dc4 kid is right as for the first oil change i like to use royal purple due to the detergents in the oil helps clean all of the residue out of the engine i.e. fingerprints ect. after that i always use amsoil in my opinion its the best out there