pcguy760

I just rebuilt my bottom end of the turbo H22A (Mahle Pistons, Eagle Rods, Bearings, Seals, etc.) and was told to break it in for 300 miles before dyno tuning. I would like to know ...

1. Is it advisable to change the oil and filter after the first initial start up and heat cycle (ie. cooling fan kicks on twice at least).

2. When breaking it in should I just drive without any boosting?

3. For the 300 miles, can this be mostly highway driving or must it be city driving (lot of stop and go)?

SpokaneSpeed

I always recommend to people that you should do your oil/filter changes at 250-300 miles and 1000-1500 miles during initial break-in period. I would stay completely out of boost, and use compression to slow the vehicle at all stops. I would also do a coolant flush within the first 100 miles. Other than that, I wouldn't recommend highway miles if possible as you want the variations in RPMS, and compression stops, etc, but its not absolutely necessary. Just my $.02.

rich7777

Highway miles are the worst sort of miles on a fresh engine. Around town driving with a lot of engine breaking is a lot better.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

get the engine up to operating temp with conventional motor oil make sure no leaks or overheating problems. Shut it down an change the oil to frecsh conventional oil again plus new filter. Take the car out and vary engine speed and load, do not wind it up to redline. try to keep rpm max aorund 4000 rpm and keep switching gears to being the rpms up and down and tip in and out of the throttle. this will seat the rings,do this for about 5-10 miles and then your good to go. Tune it and make power.. The rings never fully seat on those H22 cylinder walls though

pcguy760

Hey I planned on using synthetic from the initial start up - is that ok? Also, wondering why you say the rings never fully seat on the H22A walls?

BigMike0147

I've always heard to not use synthetic during break-in. This is because it has too much lubrication and you want the rings to see against the walls.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

No you can't use synthetic on breakin. you must use convention motor oil, just get some castrol gtx 10w30 for break in. the cylinder walls arent normal steel so the rings just never really seat well. usually when doing an H22 its wise to sleeve it but your past that point so

0Golden Eagle

''G.E. Break in sheet''

Tuning is KEY!!!!!
DO NOT clean off the assembly lube. This will help in the break-in process.
ONLY use NON-SYNTHETIC or NON DETERGENT oil for the break-in period.
Always install a NEW Oil Pump and a NEW Oil Filter, never skimp and throw on a used one!
DO NOT rev the engine over 3500 rpm during the first 200 miles of operation. Also, DO NOT boost the motor
until the 1000 mile mark has been reached. This is very important.
DO NOT keep the motor at the same RPM during break-in period. (No open road driving)
Make sure the tune on the car is not too rich. This will cause the rings to wash out and make the engine
consume or burn oil. Golden Eagle Mfg. is not responsible for leaky rings due to overly rich tune. On the other
hand, make sure the tune is not too lean as this can create excessive heat which can in turn cause extensive
damage to the sleeves, pistons, rods, crank and bearings. Golden Eagle Mfg. will not be responsible for an
improper tune of any engine. Damage caused by excessive heat will not be the fault of Golden Eagle Products.
Change the oil and filter after the 1000 mile break-in period has been accomplished. Synthetic oil can now be
added if desired.
Golden Eagle Mfg. warrants that its sleeved engine blocks are free from defects in material and workmanship.
This warranty is void if the block shows evidence of misapplication, improper installation, abuse, lack of proper
maintenance or alteration from its original design. Warranty is limited to the cost of repair to Golden Eagle Mfg.
product ONLY, excluding labor and other related incurred cost. Golden Eagle Mfg. will not be responsible for
incidental damages, property damage and personal injury damages to the extent permitted by law.
Now that these steps have been followed, you can enjoy your Golden Eagle Mfg. Built motor. We know you will
be more than satisfied with the power and reliability our motors can produce and handle.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

i agree with most of that, everyone has their own way of doing things, but there isnt anything to break in other than piston rings, everything else will hold together or wont. as long as its built properly and clearences are on par just a few miles and the rings are seated varying rpm and load not to exceed 3500-4000 rpm. after that its good to go. there is that theory and golden eagles theory, these two ways of breaking in an engine have worked time and time again, really its personally preference

pcguy760

Ok great - thanks! Yeah I could have sleeved but I want to see what these Mahles can do

rich7777

I'm guessing there just playing safe... I'd recommend changing the oil sooner than that but if its worked for them for all these years then it must be fine.

aznfreakyguy

http://www.hastingsmfg.com/ServiceTi..._procedure.htm

anyone use this break-in method?

rich7777

I havent but it makes sense. There are so many different opinions on how to run a engine in out there its unbelieveable.

lilpat93accord

Here ya go

http://www.laskeyracing.com/shop/breakin.htm

pcguy760

Wow that is interesting...

mechanix619

Synthetic = bad

SAE30

DelSolMarine

i did the laskey concept on my motor... no problems

pcguy760

Ok guys I am kinda in a dilemma now lol - since I'm using Mahle Pistons, I emailed them with my details and their tech suggested I break it in for 500 Miles... ummmm... kinda confused what to do now considering that they make this stuff but then you guys have tried these other methods that work well too... dammit!!!

turbociv910

Brand new engine? I head straight to the dyne and tune it wot.

ls_on_boost

iTrader: (5)

x2 i was gonna post that too lol

ls_on_boost

iTrader: (5)

if u have a tuner have him there to start the car and make sure the car idles at the right afr let it warm up do not rev the motor at all while the car gets to normal temp you should be checking for any signs of leaks keep an eye on the temps to make sure it dont overheat let it run for 10-15 mins if no leaks turn it off put it on a trailer str8 to the dyno and tune.

pcguy760

No - the only thing I changed was the Pistons, Rods and Bearings... the old tune at 8 psi was perfect btw... and I do have an AEM Wideband installed, so I will be checking that at the initial start up (usually ran rich before warming up)...

DelSolMarine

all these ways work fine... ask your tuner for their preference

coletuck

bump

pcguy760

lol, I was thinking about doing that tomorrow