Just wondering if ARP headstuds need to be retorqued after I go my 1000 break in miles. I really hope not because I will have to re-time my car and take the damned cams out. Any insight is appreciated.

 

It is recommended. Although if your running a Cometic hg, its not necessary....per Cometic.

 

Yea, I have a Cometic headgasket too, forgot to say that.

 

Yeah you can play it safe and do it...I do it on my turbo cars...

 

That ******* sucks, I will do it but thats a bitch cuz ya have to remove the cams.

 

ttt

 

Arp recomends to retorque them after 500 miles.

 

****** a that sucks *******.

 

hah name one thing that doesnt suck, or isnt a pain in the ***.
sometimes i wonder why we bother...

 

I was wondering the same thing. I talked to a couple shops around here and they dont re-torque thier studs at all on any of thier race cars.

I want to hear about someone who has not re-torqued thier studs and seen bad effects from this, first hand.

 

this question has been asked many times, and most replies will be to follow the instructions that ARP gives. which is to retorque them after xx amount of miles, after the breakin.

i never retorqued the ARP headstuds on my motor last year, and ran it for 22K miles without troubles. BUT i don't recommend cutting corners and not torquing them down again. just find the time to remove the cams etc. and do it. it's the right way to do things, especially with a F/I motor that sees boost.

 

Oh and trut me it'll be seeing boost and the juice too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MordecaiPSI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was wondering the same thing. I talked to a couple shops around here and they dont re-torque thier studs at all on any of thier race cars.

I want to hear about someone who has not re-torqued thier studs and seen bad effects from this, first hand.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Some race cars won't even hit 500-1000 miles within a season.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by len &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Some race cars won't even hit 500-1000 miles within a season. </TD></TR></TABLE>

He said for his race cars and all his customer's cars as well. I mean, im not saying dont do it, but im just wondering if there has been any instances where heads have lifted of hg blown due to not retorqueing the arp's.

How about for those of you who have re-torqued them, when you did, did u check to see if the tq was off spec?

 

I switched over to the AEBS head studs which are much better than ARP and they odnt require to start retorquing only time we retorque is when we replace head which is very unlikely

 

How much of a difference between AEBS and ARP studs are there?

 

ask tony 1 from jotech. the actual specs

but from what i can tell They are thicker they are longer with a lip at he bottom that goes deeper that the ARP. they actaully have lip then thread. They have higher tensine strentgh per the specs. for 30 bucks more you cant beat them

 

Very good point, but I have to go with what I have now. Mabye for my big motor plans in the future.

 

I never retorque mine but for arguements sake i did check it one time. the car was cold and sat overnight. i pulled it all apart and whe i put the torque wrench on it the head was at 85lbs where I set it. so i decided to try it at 90lbs to see where exactly it was at after running the car and it was just over 90lbs. so i never retorque mine now.

 

I took mine all apart and they were torqued to spec. They didn't move a bit. I talked to someone and they said that we needed to loosen them then torque them again. Did i do that wrong then?

Are you supposed to loosen them and retorque them or just go in there and torque them to what they are supposed to be at...

 

all you need to do is tirque them, no need to take them off and then put them back on.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MotorMatrix.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I never retorque mine but for arguements sake i did check it one time. the car was cold and sat overnight. i pulled it all apart and whe i put the torque wrench on it the head was at 85lbs where I set it. so i decided to try it at 90lbs to see where exactly it was at after running the car and it was just over 90lbs. so i never retorque mine now.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the first hand info
makes me feel better too

 

Same here. I have been told I need to do it at 500 miles or 1000 miles. The boost will probally go on at 1000 miles because I feel the motor should be broken in by then. I, however, will be changing my oil at 500 miles too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MotorMatrix.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I never retorque mine but for arguements sake i did check it one time. the car was cold and sat overnight. i pulled it all apart and whe i put the torque wrench on it the head was at 85lbs where I set it. so i decided to try it at 90lbs to see where exactly it was at after running the car and it was just over 90lbs. so i never retorque mine now.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Damn, you torque the studs that high? Do you think Im gonna have any lifting problems with only 67 ft/lbs using moly lube? Gonna be giving it high boost of 25+ eventually.

 

85-90# is quite a bit, but then again if it's a high boost race motor then it's more understandable for sure. i did mine at 70# and never retorqued them til i tore down the motor, 22K miles i put on it with 12 bottles of N2O injection. no problems. but i'm still thinking about checking them after the breakin period with the new motor, cause i'm using new ARP headstuds not the used ones from last year's motor. after my good experiences and seeing that high boost motors seem fine without going back and torquing them down again, i may skip that part.

or look into the AEBS headstuds and see how much better they are.