dansred2000si

just have a question. i purchased a full oil line kit from fast-turbo.com for a gt30r and had a concern. i have a lsvtec and have my vtec oil line coming out of the oil pressure sensor which is where the turbo feed line needs to come out of so my ? is could i run both lines out of this source and what part would i need to do this or do i need to run one of those lines from the oil filter with a sandwich adapter??? would really appreciate this info ASAP cuz I am having my car tuned on sept 20th and would need time to order a part if needed.

heres the oil line kit i have


thanks,

-dan

dansred2000si

anyone??

.dave

I ran a similar setup with the gauge and line off of the back fitting. Replace that 90 degree brass elbow with a T-fitting and run one line to the gauge and another to the feed. Running another line off of the sandwich filter is another option too.

EJ8 944

I've always been partial to using sandwich plates, so that would be my recommendation. They are cheap and easy to use/install.

yakuza

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .dave &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I ran a similar setup with the gauge and line off of the back fitting. Replace that 90 degree brass elbow with a T-fitting and run one line to the gauge and another to the feed. Running another line off of the sandwich filter is another option too. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Have you got a picture for your setup? I just found out I lost most if not all my oil due to a leak where the old oil sender unit was installed. I'm running 2 T's which supply both my turbo feed line and after market oil pressure gauge but it looks like vibration has taken its toll and I checked it today and could see the oil coming out of the 1st T.

My setup is pretty close like this one:

Flashmn

Dude those brass T's are very bad like that.. you should move it to the frame rail with a teflon line.

yakuza

I know, I nearly found out the hard way. Being its a new build up, I check the oil level before every start and when I checked it today it was almost empty. So I topped up the oil before I took it to a garage to get it up on the ramp and inspect it underneath.

I will now take it tomorrow morning but need to find out how will I change the setup so the same thing doesn't happen again ..

yakuza

Yep, after closer inspection I found that it has snapped at the weakest point.





Good thing I checked my oil before starting the car on Friday, it was completely empty of oil, so as off now car is grounded until this is replaced with a better setup.

00si2

Whats needed to do the teflon setup to the firewall?

ABK

I would personally get a plate for the oil filter. Because the oil that you get over there is no filtered and you are feeding it straight to your head, and turbo. Also I don't know if you would cause oil pressure drop to the turbo once vtec would engage.

pgpbubble

why do people still even bother using the OEM oil pressure switch?

totsie7944

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pgpbubble &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why do people still even bother using the OEM oil pressure switch? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Because if done right its easy and oil sandwiches can leak......I personally think the best way to do it is my way... -3 an line to 4-6 input oil block...takes care of ALL your needs with oil.

hatchboy

this product here is outstanding, sturdy and won't break it all, its what i and all my friends run.

http://www.tunertoys.com/?Click=36
dual fittings that are all the correct ones.
then you don't have to worry about breaking fittings
go to forced induction then fittings and flanges then dual oil takeoff adapter

blwn95civic

one of the worst ideas is to have a a bunch of fittings sticking off of the block like pictured above. Vibration will almost immidately break it in half due to the weight of a sending unit on the tip and all oil will be gushing out of the motor.

The best thing to do when u need more than one tap for oil is to run a line to the firewall and have your sending units mounted securely to the firewall/fenderwell so there's no tension or stress on any oil fittings.

Currently i'm running the stealthmode oil line kit that has the fitting pictured above. The fitting out of the side feeds my turbo while the end fitting goes to a -3an line that is mounted to my oil pressure sending unit on the firewall. Sandwich adapter feeds the vtec line and my oil temp *which is not the most accurate but hey it gives you a ballpark*

totsie7944

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by totsie7944 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Because if done right its easy and oil sandwiches can leak......I personally think the best way to do it is my way... -3 an line to 4-6 input oil block...takes care of ALL your needs with oil.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I still say this is your best bet. That is my actual setup on my car. That way you don't have any weight on the back of your block. You can also strip threads in the block where the stock oil pressure sensor is, even with that tunertoyz fitting.

Also I feed my turbo, oil temp, oil pressure gauge, and stock oil pressure sensor all with one block.

yakuza

I installed this today, again this is a temp setup. This thing defenitly need front mount oil cooler which I will do in the near future once money allows, the oil is damn hot and I wasn't even driving the thing it was just idling.

Some of the tightest places you could ever work in. Also oil pressure now went up, idling on cold is approx 90 psi then drops to around 20 after hard driving while before when using the OEM pressure switch side gauge was showing 60-70 psi on cold start and then drops to around 10-15psi after hard driving!!!!