EARLdaSQUIRREL

well finally got my greddy kit on running stock boost .... used chipped ecu from phiz and dsm injectors, wired up a resistor box as per directions from http://www.hondata.com

lenghtened o2 (maybe i got black wires switched would that make funky idle and code 41 then code 43)

it idles all lumpy n **** was throwing code 14 but not now, and feels like it is missing spark or something
using plugs NGK BKR7E at stock gap (checked and seemed to be 35)

any help is needed and appreciated as i must have car running by monday

EARLdaSQUIRREL

now its throwing no codes but still idling like **** and in upper rpms in boost it sounds like its backfiring... when coming to a stop or at idle it just feels like it wants to die, i gapped the plugs at .28 and am running the plugs as mentioned, tried goin back to stop plugs and it did the same thing.... please help me, also would runnin only from the b pipe make the car idle like this

RICE POLICE SIP

iTrader: (2)

you might wanna check your o2 wiring to make sure that it's got solid connection and check the IAC valve... Oh and do you have check valves or a missing link? Good luck mang

Bailhatch

and what are the air fuel ratios in your problem areas? the o2 sensor isn't it.

EARLdaSQUIRREL

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Split Image Prez &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you might wanna check your o2 wiring to make sure that it's got solid connection and check the IAC valve... Oh and do you have check valves or a missing link? Good luck mang</TD></TR></TABLE>

no check valves or missing link, only uberdata by phiz and i dont know what a/f ratios are as i dont have a wideband only a cheezy a/f gauge

would the chip be causing this or is it too rich , too lean etc

Bailhatch

was the uberdata tuned or is it a basemap? Uberdata has EVERYTHING to do with the AFR as well as ignition timing and other fun stuff.

93eglst

stock plug gap on my B18B1 is .045 i wouldnt reccomend going .028

Bailhatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93eglst &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stock plug gap on my B18B1 is .045 i wouldnt reccomend going .028</TD></TR></TABLE>

your recomendation is crap. .028 is guaranteed to make the bras fly homeboy

its WANG yoO

2 black wires on 02 are the same..both ground...also...running from just b pipe isn't gonna do anything...how many lbs u runnin?

talk to Phiz!!!

93eglst

well i guess thats why you have 1500 posts plus and i have two right?

Bailhatch

actually it's because I turbo hondas for a living and I know for a fact that .028" is a good gap to start with on a 7 series plug for most turbo B and D series motors. you could have 8000 posts and still blow your spark out.
The main reason i jumped on you is because you recomended not doing it the proven correct way and I hate to see anyone get steered in the wrong direction. Also I got beat by a supercharged mustang tonight because of a driving mistake I made so i'm all fired up.

93eglst

sorry to hear the mustang story, and i wrote that reply before researching and finding out that most are gapping 7's at .030 or close to it, my mistake, my work is more in the line of repairing cars at a shop than tuning them. hopefully i will gain enough knowledge before i blow my boosted b18b1, and then lose to a cavalier

Bailhatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93eglst &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sorry to hear the mustang story, and i wrote that reply before researching and finding out that most are gapping 7's at .030 or close to it, my mistake, my work is more in the line of repairing cars at a shop than tuning them. hopefully i will gain enough knowledge before i blow my boosted b18b1, and then lose to a cavalier</TD></TR></TABLE>

damn spectator drags. I really wanted that $250 for new drill press too! basicly i botched the launch and then didn't push turns 1 and 2 enough since it was my first time on banked corners I had no idea i would have so much traction. almost got him at the end but 1/3 mile ovals are really short so i was eliminated

I started at a dealership too, knowing how it all works stock will be great compared to all the kids that just want to 'tune' their cars and don't even change their own oil yet...

RICE POLICE SIP

iTrader: (2)

try putting in a stock ecu to see if it still does it....

PA MATT

iTrader: (1)

somebody help him out..im running the same setup in about 2 weeks and would like to know the problem

EARLdaSQUIRREL

i am thinking it has something to do with the injectors as my #4 plug looked really white compared to the rest of them, i will do some more troubleshooting today, thanks for any help so far

DRAGLS

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SwapWhore101 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2 black wires on 02 are the same..both ground...also...running from just b pipe isn't gonna do anything...how many lbs u runnin?

talk to Phiz!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>


by the way the two black wires coming off the o2 are NOT both grounds those are the leads
for the o2 heater one is a 12volt lead and the other is a ground mixing the two black wires will not affect o2 heater function.

Bailhatch

it will run fine without an O2. So was it tuned in the car by Phiz or did he just make you a base map?

EARLdaSQUIRREL

phiz made me a basemap he said would work fine

i am thinking its in my injector wiring, i just went out and started it up this morning and code 14 again WTF and also rough idle so this time i pulled #4 plug wire and it didnt affect engine noise at all, so i pulled #1 plug and motor died right out, so how can i check with a voltmeter which yellow wires i need to run the resistor box to on the pass side shock tower, i did the instructions according to http://www.hondata.com and pulled top 3 right ones and bottom left and wired them all to the black wires outta resistor box and then i wired the 4 remaining wires to the red wire from the resistor box but im thinking something is still wrong with the injectors or wiring

any help or suggestions are very appreciated

EARLdaSQUIRREL

also how do you ppl run the vacuum for the boost gauge, is there a special connector to plum it into the other rubber vacuum lines, i have it in one vacuum line with a larger piece of vacuum line over that to be able to put a clamp on it and tighten it down.... and at idle my vacuum is at like 10 ( if you wanna call it an idle)

and i have my a/f gauge hooked to d14 on the ecu but it only seems to work when i push in the throttle is this how its supposed to be or should it be showing somewheres even when not on the throttle

also how do you ppl run your power wires for your gauges, is there a spot on the fuse panel under the dash where i can hook a ground and power to thats only when the car is on?

EARLdaSQUIRREL

used a voltmeter at the injector clips with the key turned to on and got 7.8 volts per each clip so is that right?

EARLdaSQUIRREL

well i adjusted idle screw, cleaned out iacv, checked injectors, no vacuum leaks but im only getting 10 lbs at idle when idle is around 600 rpm's

SICKSOLSI

bump

djwest24

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by coptzer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and at idle my vacuum is at like 10 ( if you wanna call it an idle)
</TD></TR></TABLE>

10 inHg seems a little off for idle...u sure u dont have a vac leak somewhere?

EARLdaSQUIRREL

checked everywhere for vacuum leak and that still woudlnt explain when i rev past 5 grand it feels as if its hitting revlimit or lots of knock