So I am boosting my 96 integra ls.

Just purchase the go auto works street kit.

I am not sure what OBD1 computer to run. I do need a obd2 to obd1 jumper harness since I'm obd2 correct?

I need to get that computer chipped to tune off of correct?

And for injectors do I need obd1 injectors? I'm shooting for 250-350 hp

So would 550cc injectors work fine? Do I need obd2 to obd1 harness for the injectors?

Thanks

 

There are 2 types of OBD2 to consider

OBD2A= 1996-1998
OBD2B= 1999-2001

And honestly I wouldn't consider any obd oem chipped ecu. Find a used AEM v2 and godspeed to you

 

<p>https://honda-tech.com/forced-induct...2A%2A-1024174/</p><p>And have fun doing this in CA. &nbsp;Hope you're budgeting money for tickets.</p>

 

Yea you're gonna have a hard time in Cali with CARB. Nothing you're doing has CARB exemption and unless you're being real stealthy you will get pulled over a lot, ticketed, and sent to a ref.

You will need an OBD2A-OBD1 conversion harness. They can be found on eBay dirt cheap.
Yes you will need at least a chipped OBD1 ecu. Neptune is popular, Hondata S300 is also popular. However if your budget allows run a standalone. Even a Series 1 AEM EMS has much more flexibility with tuning and other features, most of which a chipped ecu can't come close to doing.

You'll need injectors and a fuel pump as well. Walbro 255 will do fine for a pump. 550s should let you reach 350 on 91 but that will be fairly close to their flow limit so if you ever want more power you'll need larger injectors. Granted 91 octane **** water will limit power as well.

 

I actually live here in Cali and yes it's a bitch to be a tuner. All very doable though, at least you only need smog every two years...im debating on running a cat because I imagine it will smell, the sound and all should be good though; anything it'll probably be more quiet than what I have now na..thoughts?

 

no "thoughts" really. Many of us live in states where we don't have SMOG at all, much less every 2 years to worry about anything. In addition, running a cat will only "smell" if you're running a corrosive fuel that emits a different chemical compound N02, otherwise, don't worry about it.

As for quiet. The mufflers matter most, not the catalyzer so much.

 

Well it's just that I've seen dipshits with cut straight pipes and there's almost always a horrible exhaust smell, just like with catless older cars.
May run the vibrant 3in (was thinking maybe even bigger) or the obx 3in...i know most don't like obx but I LOVE...i repeat love my current muffler from them - it sounds extremely crisp and makes the car sound mean but not obnoxious at all, no rattles, no raspiness fart cannon BS.
I'm fairly certain it's a harpoon style but sadly there doesn't seem to be a 3 in version or I would buy it in a heartbeat.

 

OEM catalytic converters are very restrictive when it comes to turbochargers. They produce a lot of backpressure and cause significant lag over not running one.

When I had to put a cat on my SR20 s13 for emissions I saw around a 500rpm increase in lag and that was with a T28 @ 15psi.

Buying a "performance" high flow ceramic cat will reduce the restriction some and will let you pass a visual inspection but they have low amounts of the precious metals responsible for the catalyzing reaction of exhaust gasses so they don't do much in terms of emissions reduction. Your best bet is to run a straight pipe but have a v banded section so you can easily put a cat on for emissions.

I have a circular 3" ceramic high flow cat that I'm putting v band flanges on just so I pass the visual during the emissions test, granted my cars are either too low to tell there's a cat and the others are going to be flat bottomed so it can't be seen anyways. You can find the style of cat I have for around 75 dollars on eBay, at least that's what they cost when I bought one years ago.

 

Oh I never intended to run the stock cat, you couldn't pay me to run one on my setup...with that said I as a matter of fact did check out the 3in hi flow cats on eBay a while back, they're like 4-50 bucks now. I'm not worried about visual inspection and have a shop that'll pass any car no questions asked, so should I just run a test pipe instead? I was only considering the hi flow cat because of aforementioned worries about exhaust smell.
On another note what do you recommend for a full 3 in exhaust...shop fabricated or cheapo eBay like @drmix did, while just replacing the muffler so it doesn't sound shitty. Shitty resonator I know, but his sounds fairly good and he had a shop tuck it for him; which route should I go and what does the fabrication /install usually cost?

 

Where I bought my catback. It was around $110 when I bought it. I have seen it go on sale for $95.
1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 Integra GSR VTEC B18B CATBACK EXHAUST 3"

Exhaust system when I received it
Drmix's 96 CGP GSR Turbo Build Thread - Page 103 - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra


3 inch Vibrant Muffler
Drmix's 96 CGP GSR Turbo Build Thread - Page 124 - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra

I ended up going straight from the 3 inch downpipe to the 3 inch exhaust piping. No cat. Later on I replaced the cheap O muffler with the Vibrant muffler. The shop I took it to only charged me $80 to weld the muffler and tuck the whole system so it fits perfectly. Wish I had a lift to get a good picture of how well the system fits now. When I told them about how much I paid for the piping they were shocked and said they couldnt even get the material for that price.

Id say I have a little over $300 into the exhaust for a perfect fitting full 3 inch stainless steel system with a Vibrant muffler.

Drmix's 96 CGP GSR Turbo Build Thread - Page 126 - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra

 

Test pipes are a waste of time. If you're going to run illegal, run illegal. putting a test pipe only makes for additional rusty bolts and one 2 more exhaust pipe gaskets that could fail.

Won't matter. Again, "smells" are due to the fact that the older cars are experiencing oil ring blowby because they didn't gap to proper clearance, or have possible cylinder head issues, associated with their carburetor setups. Those aren't really tuned.. more like.. balanced for lack of a better term.

You know what I'm going to say.. so I won't answer that.

Cost can vary. Depends upon if you're buying the steel or if they are, if you're using v-band clamps for the system or not, and what quality muffler you've decided to go with. You get a shitty resonator with a quality exhaust, and no real mandrel bent piping, its still going to sound shitty.. That's just truth. Expect anything from $400-$700 depending upon your materials.

 

Well Shodan, I know what your suggestion is and how you told me that the shitbay one won't bolt up correctly; hence why I brought up drmix's setup - he said it himself, getting the cheap kit, replacing the muffler and having the shop do it was pretty cheap and effective, and I dunno if you've heard his car but I definitely don't think it sounds bad.
I'll look into both
It would be sick having a custom exhaust though, there are some things I would like to with the muffler and obviously a custom one probably sounds extra badass.

One last question on the matter @drmix @TheShodan
3in muffler or bigger? I'm assuming the bigger the more deep it will sound.

 

Size has nothing to do with how deep it sounds. It's all in the design and maint what engine it happens to be attach to. Engine design has more impact on sound than any exhaust.

 

<p></p><p>But all other things the same, bigger will be louder.</p>

 

I would just go with 3in to match the piping. Ive never been a fan of a super large muffler.