tub_sephiroth

Here are my dyno charts from yesterday. I was very disappointed with the numbers. I started boost at 6 psi (my wg spring is suppose to be 7.25 or whatever but only holds 6 psi). When I was boosting 6 psi, I didn't have any boost leak. Then I turned it up to 8 psi. When I bumped it up to 8 psi., after I hit 6500 rpm, I would start to lose boost. It would leak down to 5 psi. It was frustrating. Anyways these are my charts. Does anything look wrong that I should retune?

Oh yeah, this is turbo on a stock b18c1. My turbo is a SC34. Mbc is standard Turbo XS.

Base Run: The black line in the a/f chart is just a line that they drew of where I need to be at.


Final Run:

95GSRTT

straight up, your **** is fucked somewhere. There is no way you should make that lil of HP at 8 psi on that turbo.

It almost looks like vtec really isnt working. Either you have stock exhaust for the whole thing, or I would look at the vtec again. That looks more like an LS dyno sheet.

**** I made 200 whp at 7 psi on my LS.

Team 4

GSR cams are supposed to be the best factory turbo cams, and your setup seems to lag up top. Is it throwing codes at all?

donkiman

ya somthing is definetly off. that a/f chart on the first graph is completley fucked. Honestly I wouldnt drive the car at all. at one point your a/f is 18:1!!! and then drops to below 10:1. very dangerous but i have no idea what the problem would be. and ya for 6.5 psi thats way under power. i hate to see the dyno without the turbo...

safe driver

What are you using for fuel/timing control? without datalogging, you're really just playing a guessing game.

tub_sephiroth

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by donkiman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ya somthing is definetly off. that a/f chart on the first graph is completley fucked. Honestly I wouldnt drive the car at all. at one point your a/f is 18:1!!! and then drops to below 10:1. very dangerous but i have no idea what the problem would be. and ya for 6.5 psi thats way under power. i hate to see the dyno without the turbo...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Your looking at the first run. The final run is the second pic. Sometimes at a cold start idle, it would throw code 71 (cylinder 1 misfire). When I clear the code and don't let it idle too long and just drive, then I get no codes. I only got code 13 during the dyno runs, which is Barometric pressure circuit.

Here's the complete setup:
Precision SC34 turbo
Inline pro manifold
Precision intercooler (350 hp one)
Tial 38mm wg
AEM fpr
RC 440 injectors
Walbro 255 intank pump
VAFC 2
standard Turbo XS mbc



Modified by tub_sephiroth at 1:34 AM 8/11/2004

safe driver

hmm.. i'd say bust out the compression checker and check them there cylinders.

and check your timing also.

97hb

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tub_sephiroth &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Sometimes at a cold start idle, it would throw code 71 (cylinder 1 misfire). I only got code 13 during the dyno runs, which is I think speed sensor because my rear wheels weren't moving.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Cylinder misfire could be a number of thing, I would comp test it. Speed sensor is in the tranny, so rear wheels don't matter.

95GSRTT

Are you using the stock exhaust with cat? Im not sure who your tuner is, but you made absolutely no additional power on your final run from your base run. So first off I doubt I would want him tuning my ****. 2ndly i would check all of your clamps and what not see if your blowing out any of them.

If you look at your graph, you say you lose boost from 8 psi to 5 psi at 6500. There really isnt any significant drop off at all at 6500 rpms if any at all. If you were trully dropping from 8 lbs to 5 lbs i think the graph would tell you.

tub_sephiroth

Compression is 210 across the board. Code 13 is Barometric pressure circuit. Code went away after I reset ecu and got off dyno.

Initial startup after turbo install, there was some weird sounds. It sounded like an exhaust rattle, but only you could here it from inside the car. When I pop the hood and try to listen, I couldn't here anything.

I have a Comptech exhaust with stock cat.

safe driver

how did the car run before the turbo install?

tub_sephiroth

Perfect, like stock. It's only got 45k on it.

JDogg

get rid of the cat.... its probably clogged as **** by now

96hatch22

not to be an ******* or anything but are all the pipes connected??

that almost looks like stock gsr whp.... you need to make sure that turbo is getting the air to the motor

ITRpwrdEG

There are a few things it may be. And they have to be something very major for this little of HP he is making. As you sit, you are making about 4-5whp per pound of boost. Not Good. Check for these things.

1. Vtec solenoid (run 12 to the switch, listen for a click). You can even hot wire it and engage it inside the car for one run just to make sure you don't see a huge power increase. If you don't, then Vtec is probably working just fine.

2. Secondary Butterflies. Is your harness OK? Has it been messed with before as far as cutting, soldering, butt connecting? Are you sure its not switched around with another 2pin connector. This will Seriously affect your HP and TQ as your intake manifold is only half opening. You can always run a vaccum hose from the valve to the intake manifold and that will keep them open all the time, just for tuning, to make sure that problem has been eliminated.

3. Are you only running the VAFC hack? I would look into at least Uberdata and possibly Hondata. But definetely find out whats wrong and causing this little of performance gains.

4. Clean spark plugs, check for corrosion in the plug wires, check distributor cap. All the basic things, just check over one more time.

5. Make sure you car has enough oil for vtec. Sounds stupid, but some turbo cars eat oil and you could be running low with little oil pressure.

j-robsDA

First off, dont go to John Haley. I have heard nothing but bad things about them. And dont go to propulshun. Try Elite Autosports in Minneapolis. They tuned my car. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=953611
Second, like everyone else said, check and recheck everything. Leaks sound obvious to me.
Third, If you got the cash, ditch the hack for hondata or ubberdata. I love my hondata. And shane at elite knows his ****. call them.

twkdCD595

there is definately something wrong with this picture... imo your looking for a leak someplace.

I doubt the hack is the problem personally, although you would make better/ safer power with a rom editor and whatnot.

Turbo E

what are your plugs gapped at?

ochsy03

yea shane at elite autosports tuned my car to...they did a really good job

tub_sephiroth

Plugs are NGK bkr6e. Waiting for the bkr7es to come in. The plugs are gapped at 32. Just did compression check and got 215-220 across the board. I never messed with the vtec solenoid. I put 4 1/2 quarts of new oil right after the turbo install. Isn't the power dip around 5500 caused from vtec kicking in? Since I don't work tomorrow, I will recheck everything.

donkiman

my best guess would be somthings wrong with your vtec because it dips pretty low right befor vtec comes on and also the only power issue i could think of would honestly be an enormous boost leak somwhere. If all your pipes are hooked up and connected properly, maybe your intercooler is leaking all the air?

tub_sephiroth

I jacked the car up and notice there was a rip in the coupler where the intercooler pipe meets the turbo. So this explains the boost leak, but my hp should be higher than 170 at 6 psi.

DIRep972

iTrader: (1)

A boost leak would make a huge difference. How does the car feel since you fixed the boost leak? You are probably lean on fuel now.

tub_sephiroth

Haven't fixed the leak yet, but here are my spark plugs and plug wires. Spark plugs look fine to me, but that brown stuff on my wires, is that anything to worry about?

Chris F

My plug wires look the same.

Plugs look good. Wish they were more even but that's life I suppose.

Boost leak would cause the turbo to work harder, more exhaust back pressure, etc...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by twkdCD595 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there is definately something wrong with this picture... imo your looking for a leak someplace.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

ha, good call everyone on the leaks


Also try open downpipe on the dyno, see what happens. It may be time for a test pipe or high flow cat.