<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Haberdasher &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The Autometer A/F gauge is for MONITORING. That is what it was designed for, that is what it is good for, that is why you should have one.
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It gives narrowband output...completely useless for anything.

 

I don't think I would use a wideband to monitor my A/F, only because they are to expensive to just let them wear out. But I definately wouldn't use a narrow band Autometer one unless you like how it looks, because it's not going to tell you anything. Most people already know that fact, but obviously there are still a few that don't.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmjerk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think after tuning the only ones that are NEEDED are:

-water pressure

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I think you meant water temp....but I would get an egt gauge over that

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">completely useless for anything.</TD></TR></TABLE>

WRONG! I am so Fuxxing tired of people bashing on A/F gauges. They are NOT USELESS! It is a simple voltmeter and if you think that is useless than your a RETARD! It can be used for MANY things, I myself have one hooked up to my simulated narrowband output from my HUDGE inovative wideband. I will be also be using it for the same thing when I get my EMS w/built in WB02 in a week or so. I am soon to be using another A/F gauge to moniter my knock output from my J&S. It can also be used for anything elce that has a dc voltage output, with is ALOT. All you have to do is send it away and get it re-calibrated for whatever values you want to correspond to witch led is lit.

As far as nessary gauges go, in order of importance:
1 BOOOST.........................AND A GOOD RADAR DETECTOR, if that counts
2 A/F (wideband)
3 Fuel Press (if you are using an raising rate FPR, if not than put this below Oil Temp)******This gauge varry's in importance so you will have to decide.
4 Oil Press
5 EGT (only goes here if you have a wideband, if not than put this below BOOOST and put the A/F gauge below )
6 Oil Temp (assuming you have a stock watter temp, if not switch with watter)
7 Watter Temp
8 Watter press
Thats it...... My .02$ worth

 

i run boost oil pressure and fuel pressure. im get a wideband soon

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FwdCivicHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't think I would use a wideband to monitor my A/F, only because they are to expensive to just let them wear out.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not really true...the PLX M300 and M500 use the Bosch wideband sensor, which is only about $60. I paid that much for my NTK 4-wire!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by si2die4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
WRONG! I am so Fuxxing tired of people bashing on A/F gauges. They are NOT USELESS! It is a simple voltmeter and if you think that is useless than your a RETARD! It can be used for MANY things, I myself have one hooked up to my simulated narrowband output from my HUDGE inovative wideband. I will be also be using it for the same thing when I get my EMS w/built in WB02 in a week or so. I am soon to be using another A/F gauge to moniter my knock output from my J&S. It can also be used for anything elce that has a dc voltage output, with is ALOT. All you have to do is send it away and get it re-calibrated for whatever values you want to correspond to witch led is lit.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok, you Fuxxing got me dewd. Let me rephrase - The Autometer A/F Gauge is completely useless when used like they sell it to be used. Sure, there are ways to hook it up for wideband output or other stuff which can be a tad useful, but I'd much rather have a digital or analog output on a gauge than a light show. "Oh my god, what lambda was it again at 3 green bars?!" Instead of having to guess, using a PLX lambda meter gives a digital outpt...much easier to read, and way less hastle. So to sum it all up, the Autometer A/F gauge is completely useless.

 

What I think is needed...

-Boost
-Oil Pressure
-Wideband

Why wideband..well im using the plx m300 i picked up for 320 dollars...sure it costs lil bit but for all of us buildlign motors...spending 650 on a turbo or 800 for a front mount....320 is jack to what that thing does for you...you cant monitor your car safely enough without one the way heat changes your tune and etc..its just assurance if you spend all the money i see no reason not to have one...

 

I am hopefully getting an M300 for christmas this year!

 

-Wideband AFR (EGT if no wideband)
-Boost
-Oil

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> The Autometer A/F Gauge is completely useless when used like they sell it to be used. </TD></TR></TABLE> That once again is NOT TRUE, In fact if you could jump of that band wagon for a second, maybe you would realize that just because something dose not work for you doesn’t mean I wont work for any one else. I had a friend with a dragg kit including that crappy inline pump, and if it wisent for his A/F gauge he would probly have a blow motor now. The inline pump blew, as usual, and the only thing that told him so was the A/F gauge. Once he hit boost the gauge dropped like a demon. Since he knew that it didn’t normally do that we were able to then find the problem and correct it. If we hadn’t the lack of fuel would have for sure cause detonation

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sure, there are ways to hook it up for wideband output or other stuff which can be a tad useful </TD></TR></TABLE>
Ya wideband are only just a TAD useful! I remember that one

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I'd much rather have a digital or analog output on a gauge than a light show. </TD></TR></TABLE>
That is fine, I prefer something that I can see essayer.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">"Oh my god, what lambda was it again at 3 green bars?!" Instead of having to guess, using a PLX lambda meter gives a digital output...much easier to read, and way less hassle. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I don’t tune with it, I use this cool thing called dialoging for that, its new maybe you should check it out! I have the first green bar set to tell me 14.85 and the last to 11.85 so I know I’m good when its green. I cant look at some number that is always changing , I like to keep my eyes on the road. If I did want to see the #'s I just pull out the actual meter, it has a # and an analog display on it.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> So to sum it all up, the Autometer A/F gauge is completely useless. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes we understand your a retard, its OK

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by si2die4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That once again is NOT TRUE, In fact if you could jump of that band wagon for a second, maybe you would realize that just because something dose not work for you doesn’t mean I wont work for any one else. I had a friend with a dragg kit including that crappy inline pump, and if it wisent for his A/F gauge he would probly have a blow motor now. The inline pump blew, as usual, and the only thing that told him so was the A/F gauge. Once he hit boost the gauge dropped like a demon. Since he knew that it didn’t normally do that we were able to then find the problem and correct it. If we hadn’t the lack of fuel would have for sure cause detonation </TD></TR></TABLE>

Once again Mr. Dense Skull, the AF gauge is only showing narrowband output...completely useless! You might as well hook it up to your setreo system.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by si2die4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ya wideband are only just a TAD useful! I remember that one </TD></TR></TABLE>

I never said widebands weren't useful. In fact this is the thing I would rather have than any other output in my car. I was saying the lightshow gauge that tells you nothing is useless.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by si2die4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That is fine, I prefer something that I can see essayer.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good for you. I guess colors and flashy lights are easier to read and understand than an actual number for someone like yourself. I stopped communicating in colors in kindergarten.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by si2die4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don’t tune with it, I use this cool thing called dialoging for that, its new maybe you should check it out! I have the first green bar set to tell me 14.85 and the last to 11.85 so I know I’m good when its green. I cant look at some number that is always changing , I like to keep my eyes on the road. If I did want to see the #'s I just pull out the actual meter, it has a # and an analog display on it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Never said you did. Tuning with a wideband is excellent. I also think having a wideband output for daily driving is great too, especially since some widebands now use the Bosch sensor which is rather inexpensive compared to the NTK unit. Datalogging isn't new to me buddy, sorry. So how many bars total are there on the Autometer gauge? What's the max resolution you can have? Oh, thats right, you sacrifice resolution for range, or vice versa, what a pity. Sorry to hear that you aren't skilled enough to use your peripherial vision to see a number...again back to you using colors.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by si2die4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Yes we understand your a retard, its OK
</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's ok. If I'm a retard, I wonder where that puts you...

It really comes down to a matter of preference I guess. Some like to look at flashy colors and try to interpret them, and some like to have acutal readings that mean something.

 

Right now I'm running:

Boost
Oil Pressure
EGT
Techedge wideband
And using a VAFC to see peak boost/rpm's

The &lt;A TITLE="Click for more information about car" STYLE="text-decoration: none; border-bottom: medium solid green;" HREF="http://search.targetwords.com/u.search?x=5977|1||||cars|AA1VDw"&gt;car&lt;/A&gt;s running Uberdata and through the techedge I'm datalogging RPMs, positive manifold pressure, coolant temperature, TPS, and exhaust gas temperatures. This lets me do all the tuning I need so I'd recommend this setup.

I also had an A/F gauge, but its worthless so I sold it for $20

 

DAX WINS!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TeamCracka &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I also had an A/F gauge, but its worthless so I sold it for $20 </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Narrowband is not inherently worthless. If it were the all the Hondas would use wideband from the factory. It tells you when you are rich and when you are lean. Are you trying to tell me that there is no value in knowing when you are lean? How about in this situation:



If your tuning is worth half a damn the only reason to have a A/F gauge permanently mounted in the car is to alert you to an equipment failure that has caused a lean condition like a fuel pump or injector failure.

THE VALUE OF THE AUTOMETER A/F GAUGE IS MONITORING

 

not this again

 

Let me chime in here. A 4 wire sensor can vary up to 1.5 afr points form the actual value in certian condtions. That kind of variation is huge when your considering 12.5:1 lean and your Autometer gauge is still burried in the green.

I agree that the autometer gauge is a good tool to let you know when your extremely lean, however it is akin to the idot oil pressure light on your dash. It will only let you know when something is extremely wrong and it offers no ability to read an actual value.

Just my $.02

 

scratch air/fuel and get EGT

 

all you need is hondata and a boost gauge a wideband too if you can swing the money.

 

DaX owned you with the a/f arguement. Thats a good point. Id rather look at numbers then a light show. ESP if its more accurate. Thanks for you help guys I apprecaite it. Im sure Ive got enough to make up my mind..

BTW Dax everytime i read one of your posts I always imangine you looking like the guy in your avatar lol that kid is crazy looking lol id be even funnier if you tell me its you lol

 

Greddy ownage!!!! hehe

Boost, EGT, Oil Pressure, Water Temp

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmjerk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">id be even funnier if you tell me its you lol</TD></TR></TABLE>

It is me...bad picture IMHO though.

 

"all you need is a perfectly tuned car that never breaks down"

I HATE this thread so much, it has been posted several times.

bottom line is it is an opinion. research the subject and then decide which gauges you want/think you need.

-im crabby from finals

 

i have boost, autometer a/f running off a techedge WB02, oil press.

 

what do you guys think is more important...water temp or oil temp? I was originally gonna run boost, egt, oil pressure, and water temp...but wanted to find some feed back on that.

Khoi