B00ST2nR

As you can see, I'm an NA guy... for now. That's why I don't know much about FI stuff.

I've always wanted to JRSC my car. I know that my Cams are too big for FI, so I'll need to switch out my cams to stock or ITR cams. Also, what other NA parts need to go once I get the JRSC? Does the header or intake still stay? Give me some info. Thanks.

Tru Dynamix

what mods do u have for the na set up?

the intake and headers can stay if u use a JRSC but if u go turbo, the headers will be replaced with a turbo manifol and the intake will be replaced with a charge pipe.

thats all i can say for now since i dont know any of your na mod's so far.

EDIT: ijust read your profile. haha..ill add on later if i have time


[Modified by Tru Dynamix, 12:36 AM 2/24/2003]

B00ST2nR

Should I just stay NA or go JRSC?

My plans in NA was to get the Skunk2 IM, ITR AEM CAI, Skunk2 ECU, Skunk2 Valvetrain, JDM 4-1 Header, and a Carsound 2.5" inch Cat. installed in my car then Dyno tuned, on top of all the Mods I have already. (see sig.)

I know it won't make as much power as a JRSC'd GS-R would, but it would be pretty close I presume.

Plus I can always just swap out my Stage 1 cams and upgrade to Stage 2's and make even more power...


What do you guys think?

631 Teggy

NA > JRSC

TURBO > JRSC

TURBO > NA

Therefor, either consider turbo... Or stick NA...

NA is probably a lot cheeper, unless you got the money to spend... Thats why I'm NA (not by choice)...

DeepSi

You are in a very difficult situation. If you want to go to JRSC all you have to do is get rid of the cams. If you want to keep NA route, you have a nice setup already to work with. Seriously consider these points....

1. Why not turbo, nothing against SC, just wondering? you will lose the headers and cams.
2. Hondata ECU for tuning.

Your car would be nice either setup you go and is a hard descision. My vote is to turbo fed the GSR. else NA route.

631 Teggy

PS: You will make more power with JRSC (More then NA)... But after strapping it on, other then a bigger pulley, there isn't much else you can do...

Kids I know who run JRSC, say it's cool for the first year, but they just don't make enough power...

I used to want JRSC (for the cheeper price/reliablity)... Then i found the FI forums, and now my mind is changed...

Sorry if this doesn't help, I'm a bit tired for some reason...

J.R.

I too decided na wasnt going to be enought for me so I am going turbo. I just ahve to put the revhard stage 2 on

shadowdawn

Welcome :D

SIK IN DA HED

i chose turbo...

DeepSi

ROFLMAO I will be the second to welcome you to the darkside

Tofurky

My opinion: Stay with the NA idea, or go turbo.

Seriously though...
With the turbo, a good standalone, proper fuel set up, you will be extremely impressed.
And instead of trying to squeeze into 200 whp with NA, you'll be pushing close to 300 in no time. It's hard to take advantage of a good NA set up without an extremely light car. But I'm sure people will disagree. Just my thought.

But to your original question, you'll probably want to ditch the cams, for stock GSR cams. Get a proper fuel setup, and Hondata S200 or something similiar with dyno time. You can still use your original i/h.


The Skunk2 IM will happily accompany your turbo too.




[Modified by Ruckus138, 7:24 PM 2/23/2003]

B20-T

hondata,dont get the skunk 2 im..get ge im or edelbrock im

sporkcrx

Go turbo, you'll love it. I was, then sold it, then extremely regret it. I NEED that boost again one of these days, after you get used to boost...you'll be amazed at how slow it is if you take it off. One of these days I'll be back.

Stu

It's less stressful on your motor when you make power with FI as opposed to N/A. Something to consider when people tell you "N/A is more reliable." Cause it isn't.

J.R.

Is that really true???

B00ST2nR

Then why is it that alot of Boosted cars visit the Shop to fix things more than All Motor folks?

Stu

Because they don't know what they are doing. Give me a minute and I will dig out
"Maximum Boost" and throw some info at you.

keebler65

since all of these turbo-nuts forgot about your question, i'll correct the first replier. if you go jrsc, the intake makifold is replaced with the one that is included in the JRSC kit. btw, you'll find all of these guys in this forum are heavily turbo biased. that means they know a lot, bc for the most part, turbos are more complex than sc's. dont always listen to them when they do the turbo sales pitch though, because it depends entirely on what you're trying to achieve. if you just want drivability and a low psi setup, then sc is the way to go. if you want all out power and efficiency, then go turbo. i consider a turbo install to be A LOT more work though. but then again, i'm sure its worth the effort. anyways, if you want additional info on deciding, do a search, as this topic has been covered in detail numerous times. but just make sure you know what you're trying to achieve before you listen to someone.

Stu

Okay, this one of those things that you understand, but it is hard to explain to other poeple. In "Maximum Boost," Corky Bell has this equation: Power = P X L X A X N. He goes on to explain each letter liek this:

"P is brake mean effective pressure, or bmep. An easy way to imagine bmep is as an average pressure pushing the piston down the bore.
.
L is the length of the stroke. This tells you how far the pressure is going to push the piston.
.
A is the area of the bore. This is, of course, the area the pressure has to work on.
.
N is the number of putts the engine makes in one minute. This represents how fast the engine is running and how many cylinders it has. N = number of cylinders X (rpm/2)"

* The reason it is divided by two is because each piston only fires every other itme in a 4-stroke engine.

Okay so, then he goes on to talk about the different methods of increasing these numbers.

He basically says that if you change A (the bore) by an eighth of an inch you might get a 10% increase in power. If you change L (the stroke) then you might also get a 10% increase in power.

Now here is the important part. With N (putts per minute) there are only two ways to increase this number. One is to add more cylinders; and two is to rev higher.

It would obviously be out of the question to add more cylinders. So what is the problem with reving higher. It adds extra wear on your engine. To be more specific, the "inertial loads go up with the square of the rpm increase. That means that at 7200rpm, the inertial load will be 144% greater than at 6000rpm."

Earlier in the book he explains that the points of most wear on an engine are at TDC and BDC. When you turbo charge a car, the extra pressure you are putting on the cylinder is mainly in between those two points, right in the meat of where you make power. Think about it, if you go to open a door, you grab it at the furthest point from the hinges. If you were to grab any closer, then it would be harder to open the door. So you would be doing more work for less of a result.
.
Anyway, the point is, when you rev an engine higher, you are increasing the speeds (and the loads) at TDC and BDC. That is why N/A build-ups are less reliable than FI build-ups.

God I hope someone can explain this better than my lame-*** attempt at it.
~Stu

Stu

bump

MiraiZ

being a fast NA is more expensive than being a fast turbo
being a slow turbo is not as fun as being a fast NA
being a slow NA is not as fun or as fast as being a slow turbo
being an JRSC is just ***, unless you have a lot of money to make it fast, but even so you'll never be as fast as a slow or fast turbo or a fast NA, which are fun

swrdply400mrelay

OT: What does BTDC mean?

Shady Hills

TDC-Top Dead Center

BDC-Bottom Dead Center

keebler65

and BTDC = (Degrees) Before Top Dead Center

its how people refer to what their timing is set at

Burke

Dude, I have that book. IT RULES!!!! Everyone that is getting into or just wants to know more about turbos should spend the $30 and get it.
The author is Corky Bell and you can get it from barnesandnobles.com for like $28. definate must read!!!!