N20 Problems on the Dyno...
Go to a place that freezes the bottle. Turbo People is the only place around here that freezes the bottle and it deff. packs more N2O in there.
check yoru nitrous line filter. Change it. it is very cheap to replace but that could be your problem. I had the same problem with mine and it made a huge difference when i switched out teh filters.
What clutch are you running? An instant 100 on tap isn't going to get along easily, esp on those D trannies.
Have you tried a stock ECU, and the nitrous kit's fueling system instead?
Have you tried a stock ECU, and the nitrous kit's fueling system instead?
get the pressure up , mine never went anywhere on 900 psi . 1050-1100 was ideal . plus the bottle might not have been full . it goes faster thna you think
Imnot sure how you kept the rpessure the same on each dyno run unless you had a botle heater and youw ere taking time before each additional run to let it pressurize again?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by twkdCD595 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you should never have to guess at a bottles pressure or what not... a heater and pressure gauge are a must for consistant nitrous use.</TD></TR></TABLE>
that is so very true. a heater and pressure gauge are as important as nitrous itself
that is so very true. a heater and pressure gauge are as important as nitrous itself
I have a bottle heater and pressure guage. Bottle was at 900 psi on each run. I never weighted the bottle, but the shop that filled it supposably did. The use the gravity method and do freeze the bottle before hand. I did have the top the bottle off after it already had 7 lbs in it. Could that have caused it?
I am using an ACT street disk and HD pressure plate. I also plugged the fuel pressure rising vac lines on the ZEX box since they were no longer needed.
I just went out there today opened the bottle, hit the purge, and got good nitrous coming out almost instantly. Why did it work today and not Saturday on the dyno???
I am using an ACT street disk and HD pressure plate. I also plugged the fuel pressure rising vac lines on the ZEX box since they were no longer needed.
I just went out there today opened the bottle, hit the purge, and got good nitrous coming out almost instantly. Why did it work today and not Saturday on the dyno???
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanCivic2000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just went out there today opened the bottle, hit the purge, and got good nitrous coming out almost instantly. Why did it work today and not Saturday on the dyno???
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Damn that Secret Services dyno and their nitrous curse!
Maybe the lines/solenoids were clogged that day when you were on the dyno? Try removing the lines from the solenoids and checking the filters and such. (Did you use Teflon tape on the fittings?) That can sometimes get through the threads and clog the solenoids. I use liquid threadlock specifically for this reason.
Good luck figure it out! And keep us updated on the next dyno session. heh heh
</TD></TR></TABLE>Damn that Secret Services dyno and their nitrous curse!
Maybe the lines/solenoids were clogged that day when you were on the dyno? Try removing the lines from the solenoids and checking the filters and such. (Did you use Teflon tape on the fittings?) That can sometimes get through the threads and clog the solenoids. I use liquid threadlock specifically for this reason.
Good luck figure it out! And keep us updated on the next dyno session. heh heh
Did not think about that really... I also used liquid thread sealant instead of the tape.
Definately check the lines and nossle over for anything.... try also testing the nossle out of the intake piping for flow and pattern. Make sure you dont have it spraying agianst the side of the intake piping or anything too.
BTW better luck this next time.
Definately check the lines and nossle over for anything.... try also testing the nossle out of the intake piping for flow and pattern. Make sure you dont have it spraying agianst the side of the intake piping or anything too.
BTW better luck this next time.
I talked to my local nitrous supplier today. He said that if you do get air in your tank by accident during filling you will still get nitrous before you get the air. Makes sense, nitrous is liquid and the tank utililzes the pick up tube inside. Can anyone verify this?
I used liquid thread lock on some of the connections. Never teflon tape though. I'm going to try checking the filter to see if it's clogged or anything as soon as I get a chance (may not be for a couple days). Even if the solenoid was clogged I figure that the purge would have worked better. Now that the purge is working fine I am completely clueless.
wow, just curious why didn't you get a wet or dp kit if you spent all that money on nitrous management/injectors?
nice torque numbers, i put out less on 8 psi boost but my whp is quite a bit higher
nice torque numbers, i put out less on 8 psi boost but my whp is quite a bit higher
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jkan2001 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow, just curious why didn't you get a wet or dp kit if you spent all that money on nitrous management/injectors?
nice torque numbers, i put out less on 8 psi boost but my whp is quite a bit higher</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hondata nitrous controls work great with a dry kit
nice torque numbers, i put out less on 8 psi boost but my whp is quite a bit higher</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hondata nitrous controls work great with a dry kit
900 should be sufficient but I would definitly try 1050psi. Also I always weigh my bottle when I get home to see if they ripped me off, only way to tell for sure. All the shops I go to use the pump system and always comes out full. Never seen the gravity method. If you didn't see the purge that well before and do now, I am pretty sure the bottle wasn't at the right psi on the dyno. Keep us updated.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanCivic2000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bottle was at 900 psi on each run. I never weighted the bottle, but the shop that filled it supposably did. The use the gravity method and do freeze the bottle before hand. </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanCivic2000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bottle was at 900 psi on each run. I never weighted the bottle, but the shop that filled it supposably did. The use the gravity method and do freeze the bottle before hand. </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97hb »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">900 should be sufficient but I would definitly try 1050psi. Also I always weigh my bottle when I get home to see if they ripped me off, only way to tell for sure. All the shops I go to use the pump system and always comes out full. Never seen the gravity method. If you didn't see the purge that well before and do now, I am pretty sure the bottle wasn't at the right psi on the dyno. Keep us updated.
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Bottle pressure was at 900psi the whole time so that doesn't explain why I made less hp with a 75 shot than a 55 shot.
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Bottle pressure was at 900psi the whole time so that doesn't explain why I made less hp with a 75 shot than a 55 shot.
Were your AF's the same for each run?
Did you record your fuel pressure readings for each run?
It could be that your noids just aren't flowing enough nitrous due to seal wear. Also your AF is getting pretty rich up top, although not terrible by any means. This has to be taking away some hp. Usually I'd just say break down your noids and check the seals or try a different fuel/nitrous jet combo, but that doesn't really apply to Zex kits. Good luck.
Did you record your fuel pressure readings for each run?
It could be that your noids just aren't flowing enough nitrous due to seal wear. Also your AF is getting pretty rich up top, although not terrible by any means. This has to be taking away some hp. Usually I'd just say break down your noids and check the seals or try a different fuel/nitrous jet combo, but that doesn't really apply to Zex kits. Good luck.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by laughinxxx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Were your AF's the same for each run?
Did you record your fuel pressure readings for each run?
It could be that your noids just aren't flowing enough nitrous due to seal wear. Also your AF is getting pretty rich up top, although not terrible by any means. This has to be taking away some hp. Usually I'd just say break down your noids and check the seals or try a different fuel/nitrous jet combo, but that doesn't really apply to Zex kits. Good luck. </TD></TR></TABLE>
There AF's were not the same on each pull. Most of them stayed steady and right where they should be. That graph I posted is the only one that was lean to start out. I wasn't recording fuel pressure readings for each run, because I'm not using that to supply additional fuel, all my fuel is being tuned through the Hondata and bigger injectors.
Did you record your fuel pressure readings for each run?
It could be that your noids just aren't flowing enough nitrous due to seal wear. Also your AF is getting pretty rich up top, although not terrible by any means. This has to be taking away some hp. Usually I'd just say break down your noids and check the seals or try a different fuel/nitrous jet combo, but that doesn't really apply to Zex kits. Good luck. </TD></TR></TABLE>
There AF's were not the same on each pull. Most of them stayed steady and right where they should be. That graph I posted is the only one that was lean to start out. I wasn't recording fuel pressure readings for each run, because I'm not using that to supply additional fuel, all my fuel is being tuned through the Hondata and bigger injectors.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanCivic2000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That graph I posted is the only one that was lean to start out. I wasn't recording fuel pressure readings for each run, because I'm not using that to supply additional fuel, all my fuel is being tuned through the Hondata and bigger injectors.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well that's out of my league. I just check pressures, adjust jet combos, and go race. Then again my wet kit makes the power that it is supposed to.
Either way, if your AF is about right then must not be getting as much nitrous as you think you are, which is why your shots are weak when you get up to the big sizes. Something in your kit isn't flowing enough nitrous. Find the bottleneck and you should start making good power.
That graph I posted is the only one that was lean to start out. I wasn't recording fuel pressure readings for each run, because I'm not using that to supply additional fuel, all my fuel is being tuned through the Hondata and bigger injectors.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well that's out of my league. I just check pressures, adjust jet combos, and go race. Then again my wet kit makes the power that it is supposed to.
Either way, if your AF is about right then must not be getting as much nitrous as you think you are, which is why your shots are weak when you get up to the big sizes. Something in your kit isn't flowing enough nitrous. Find the bottleneck and you should start making good power.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by laughinxxx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Something in your kit isn't flowing enough nitrous. Find the bottleneck and you should start making good power.
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Any good places to start looking?
Something in your kit isn't flowing enough nitrous. Find the bottleneck and you should start making good power.
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Any good places to start looking?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanCivic2000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Any good places to start looking?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Start from the bottle and work your way to the front.
Bottle valve/lines/purge solenoids/nitrous solenoids/jets/nozzle tip
How far is your nozzle located from the TB? And did you make sure it was shooting towards the TB? (I mark the nozzle and intake piping with a line of white-out, to make sure that it is indeed pointing towards the TB) Sometimes, vibrations can wiggle that nozzle around...which would point it towards your filter.
Any good places to start looking?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Start from the bottle and work your way to the front.
Bottle valve/lines/purge solenoids/nitrous solenoids/jets/nozzle tip
How far is your nozzle located from the TB? And did you make sure it was shooting towards the TB? (I mark the nozzle and intake piping with a line of white-out, to make sure that it is indeed pointing towards the TB) Sometimes, vibrations can wiggle that nozzle around...which would point it towards your filter.
I am positive the nozzle was pointing in the right direction. I first had the nozzle mounted about 15" from the TB as recommended by ZEX for a large shot, but that placed it before the AEM bypass valve which I quickly learned does in fact blow out nitrous as I watched it come out of it. Then I moved it after the bypass valve and it was about 7" from the TB. I am positive that I am using the correct jettings too. I ordered them from ZEX.


