My next project over the winter break is going to include swapping a new motor. I already bought a completely rebuilt b18a with completely stock oem pistons and rings. I am hoping to make at least 300 whp with this setup.
I am contemplating right now whether to get an ls head and replace all internals or go with an lsvtec setup. I am leaning towards a ls head just because its cheaper and easier for a nearly broke college kid.
I want to know if anyone has any recomendations on the following:
1. what turbo i should run
2. whether to sell my 2.5" exhaust for 3"
3. whether its worth the gain in hp to get a perf. IM
4. what injectors i should run (running dsm 450cc right now)
5. tranny i should run
6. whether i should sell my ACT street disc which holds up to 219lb torque for a stronger one
7. what tuning i should go with (running chrome now)
8. whether i can use a stock gsr tapped oil pan on this ls block i just bought
I am planning on running a full race style/ramhorn/ or equal length manifold so i have that out of the way. If you have any advice or experiece building a boosted honda please feel free to give me some advice for any of these questions i have. As of right now i am running my b18c1 with 111k on the clock with a greddy 18g kit that put down 245 whp and i just want build something with a little more power.

By evbecks

 

you can make 300whp with the right setup on a bone stock LS motor... and that seems to be the best bet for you since you are doing it on a budget...
You will however, need to get the right setup to make the power...
A standard T3/T04E 57 trim will get you there easily and wont break the bank like a GT series..
You will need to have the 3 inch, well, wont need.. but it makes it easier..
I would upgrade to 750s, simply because its better to have alittle more then you need..
you dont need an aftermarket intake manifold.. ive see the stock LS one make 300whp easily..
You can use the LS tranny, theres no problem there.. depends on what you do with the car... if its a DD, keep the LS.. IF its a track contender, you might want a GSR, B16 or Type R....
Ive made almost 500whp on the LS tranny, and never had a problem...

 

I also wouldn't worry about the "ramhorn" manifold, for simply 300whp either. That is another way to save a bit of cash and get the same performance (and a bit more responsive fun out it) at that same time. Spoolin Performance, and SLS have great manifolds that are just perfect for the budget.. (though SLS manifolds are not A/C compatible as of yet.)

550cc injectors are ok. The RC 750cc Saturated injectors I don't really recommend due to the pintle failures that I've seen in the last several hundred sets i've receieved back from Honda and Mustang guys last year. Since then, I won't touch 'em.. Rochester/Lucas or Delphi is a better, safer, more reliable bet.

 

I agree with the Shodan. I have an SLS shorty (same as the SPoolin Quick4) and i love it for the street. It spools fast and flows enough to let my GT3255b spool through redline w/o falling off...

As for injectors, i would go w/ a 550cc unless you plan to go bigger in the near future in which case, i would get 880cc

 

nice car man clena teggy good luck on the goal ever around the albany area?

 

hey man, pm me i can help you out with advice and answer your questions. im also still on to make a deal on the rims, so again hit me a pm

 

are those 15's on that integra

 

Just get atleast a 35r man. You will always want more power might as well get it so you will be happy. Trust me once you get to 300 you will want 350 haha. damn the boost addiction its nto even funny! Now I am at 400 I want 460 with some s2 pro1's or ctr since I already max out on pump gas and I lost to a damn c6 z06 by half a car...

 

yes those are 15s on my teg. haha i already am feeling that boost addiction. when i first installed my kit i was like after this i am done, now look what ive gotten myself into. i am thinking of running a t3/t4 57 trim just to save some money, but i will eventually go with the gt series. i really want to get a gt35r ballbearing.

 

It's all how you look at things. If you go ahead and get a good intake manifold and a VTEC head now you won't have to later. I was always the guy that did things for the now and would always have it redone down the road and looking back I think it wasn't worth it. I'd rather ride stock than plan on doing things twice.

Me I'd personally save $$ and do like the other and get you a good log manifold like an InlinePro or SpoolinPerformance. These manifolds hold up better for daily driven setups and in some cases spool up faster.

I'd go w/ a VTEC head b/c it flows better off the rip and it'll get you a better base for down the road upgrades. Don't get me wrong-people have made tons of power w/ str8 LS but why work harder? You'll have a good powerband and you'll use less boost to make the power you want. Basically less strain on motor-longer running(in theory). If you use a GSR(B18C1) head I'd go ahead and get an aftermarket intake manifold sux as AEBS, Blox, Skunk2 or even the JG Victor X. The secondary butterflies in those intake manifolds won't help once you're boosted. The B16 or ITR head intake manifolds are pretty good so it'll be up to you-like I said before if it was me I'd go ahead and get one. It's a pain in the *** changing manifolds in the car. Might as well do it w/ the head off the car.

Since these are all my opinions I'd also say go w/ a GSR tranny w/ ITR LSD. I think the GSR trannies are perfect for street cars. Not too short of gearing and not to long of gearing. I like the FD in a GSR tranny also. I've had all different types of Honda trannies and to me nothing has a better setup for a boosted street car than an GSR tranny w/ ITR diff. You can get a GSR tranny for around $500-700 and the ITR diffs go for about $300.

I'm w/ the others on injectors-I'd upgrade to 750!! On the clutch it's all dependent on what you want in the long run. Me I always run an overly aggressive clutch so if I upgrade I have a clutch that can handle the power. I'd go w/ a Competition Clutch Stage 5 w/ Upgraded PP. Do some searches-these are the only single disc clutches that seem to handle real power. I have a friend that's making 550whp on a daily driven EK. He beats the hell out of his car. He takes it to all the local races and test-n-tune. He's had the CC clutch for over 60k and it takes it w/ no slippage what so ever.

On turbos you can get a T3/60-1 or even a SC61 for dirt cheap. They spool up pretty well, don't brake the bank, and aren't too small where when you want to turn the boost up-you aren't making inefficient boost or hot boost or pushing the turbo out of it's efficiency range.

 

definately roll with a gsr tranny with lsd, its a perfect mix of gearing for track/street.

be weary of the larger turbos if you stay with an ls head. my car didnt make 10 psi on the 60-1 till 5000 rpms on an ls motor. same setup made 10 psi at 3800 with a 57 trim with a .48 ar.

my old 1.8Lvtec made 10 psi on the 60-1 at around 4800, but it didnt really get moving till after vtec, around 6000

 

thanks for all the advice... since alot of people have been telling me to save up my money... im thinking that it might not be a bad idea. i was planning on throwing a b16 head on later down the road, but it might not be a bad idea to save up and do it all at once instead of redoing it once ive already gotten the ls working correctly. ive just heard that there are some right and wrong ways to do ls vtec and some are sketchier that others. of course i want to eliminate this bc it is my dd during most of the year besides the winter. i dont have time to be messing around with an unreliable car.

 

i was in the exact same spot you are a year and a half ago, had a turbo kit and debating on straight ls or lsvtec....fast foward to now, ive got a fully built/sleeved 84mm lsvtec, 400+whp evans tuned.

its also been like 10k dollars later too... nothing is ever totally trouble free, but if you plan for the future and set things up right, even though it might take longer you will be more pleased with the final product

 

true i can def believe that. when u ran 12s in ur hatch with 400+ hp, was this bc u didnt have slicks?

 

i ran 12s with roughly 300-320whp, it was on bfg radials spinning a lot, with a 2.0 60ft. it was also at lebanon valley which just plain sucks. my only run on slicks with 400+ whp i sunk a sleeve off the line, ran a 24.xx at 107mph

 

damnnn that sucks.... does anyone know if i can run an obdI head and still pass emmissions? i heard that as long as i have an obdII distr. it will work but i dono if this is true. im gonna search after this but i figured id throw it out there

 

yeah obd2 distributor and manifold on the obd1 head you are good. however, if its ls motors, the heads and cams were best inn the 94 95 motors

 

ok thanks man... im still debating whether to get a b16 head or ls head. i never thought this decision would be so tough. but going ls vtec, i would have to get the ls/vtec conversion kit which is just another expense.