QuarterMileMaster

What up everybody, I just wanted to display my new upcoming project. Inspired by Epic Tuning's proof that the RT4wd system can take some punishment I pursued this venture This cars purpose will be daily driving with a crap load of fun on the side doing RR. My goal isn't high hp, but a very linear powerband and durability for road racing.

The car:
1988 Civic Wagon RT4wd




The motor:
B18c1
ITR Cams/ BC Valvetrain
Arias 10.5:1 c/r pistons
Pauter rods
AEBS IM/ 68mm TB
Previously made 413whp on pump gas on my current FWD setup (sc61)


The drivetrain:
2000 CRV RT4wd transmission
Competition Clutch
Modified driveshaft/ stock rear end

The turbo setup:
Custom turbo (designed myself) based on a Mitsu Evo 9 Turbo
Custom twin scroll a/c compatible manifold
Tial 38mm wg
Tial 50mm bov
Ebay FMIC
2" hotside/ 2.5" coldside

Suspension:
Koni Yellows w/ Ground Conrol Coilovers
Hypercoil custom springs (425lb in front, 500 lb in rear)

This car should have one of the most linear powerbands you'll ever see with TQ of around 240ft lbs from 4k all the way to redline making around ~365awhp not to mention spool up will practically be at idle which should make for an absolutely nasty street car and an amazing road racecar.

HiProfile

Definately leave the roof rack on. Uber sleeper!

Just understand the rearend really shouldn't be run a full torque, IE solid driveshaft. I'm not sure about the CRV trans, but the stock trans' x-fer case section isn't exactly bullet-proof.

Good luck though, I'd be interested how much more power you can run in 1st/2nd with 2 more wheels being powered!

QuarterMileMaster

Haha, yeah the roof rack is staying on and I'm going to get it repainted stock color, the wheels I have are all black and don't look too special either, FMIC will be black... Nobody will see it coming, not to mention I roll with 2 car seats in the back (family man )

The driveshaft is still going to have the viscous (spelling?) coupling in the middle to maintain the RT4wd and not full-time AWD, this allows for the drivetrain to take the punishment because all of the tq is applied to the coupling and not the actual transfer case or rear diff.

It's already a blast to drive in the rain completely stock because I can dump the clutch at 6k and launch right away with practically no wheel spin.

AJxr

make sure you leave that bubbled up tint in the back also.

QuarterMileMaster

Based on the flow characteristics of this turbo compared to a stock Evo 9 turbo on a GSR motor, this is what we are estimating our dyno to look like (modified from the stock evo 9 on gsr motor dynochart, approx 19psi):

BJOnewiper

What are you using to tune this?
Does the AWD make tuning funky?

QuarterMileMaster

Well the above dynochart is an ESTIMATE as I mentioned, as for tuning we'll be using Hondata S300 or even AEM EMS depending on my budget at that time. We aren't quite sure yet how the RT4wd will affect the tuning but we'll will certainly see...

thatblkguy

the turbo your working with is it going to be Mitsu flanged or T3?

all so which evo9 will it be based off of?

QuarterMileMaster

The turbo is the stock evo 9 twinscoll 10.5 turbine side.

The evo 9 turbo is the one off of the evo 9 MR with a few modifications that my turbo techs and I came up with.

GeorgeLouis1618

Hurry up and get this done!

Are you on http://www.hondacivicwagon.com?

redzcstandardhatch

NEAT

good luck with the project man

QuarterMileMaster

Yep, I'm on the wagon forum too, havne't made any posts yet, still waiting for the mods to activate my account.

Thanks guys

thatblkguy

Since were both doing almost the same turbo set up what size oil feed you going to use?

Jaker

Have you got a CRV tranny yet? If not, I've got one here for sale. I also have a spare transfer case.

WebbSpeed

In for update and video

Turbocivic94

This is a cool project. I like it