my new setup y7
08-18-2006, 08:08 PM
#1
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my new setup y7 edited new pics
i know this is a repost but i got no replys on the last one.. gimmie some feedback please
ok i have a build up im waitiing on my apointment to get tuned and i want to know what kind of hp numbers i am looking at making heres the list.. also what kind of timing should i have at peak.. at a high boost pressure i plan on maxing out the turbo or injectors.. im building a z6 head right now but till its done im gonna tune it on the y7
y8 block
y7 head stock cleaned and pressure tested new seals
srp 75.5 9:1
eagle rods
oem bearings
z6 crank
ARP head studs
felpro head gasket
aem fuel rail
255plh walbro in tank
t3/t4e 57 trim
large frontmount ic
types s bov
3 inch downpipe
open wastegate vented out the fender
750cc RC injectors
35mm tial 8 psi spring
profec b2 boost controller.. still cant get it to hold boost right..????
stock y7 tranny
stock flywheel
exedy stage 2 clutch.. i think its the 3 puck 400 whp rated
street tuned crome pro at 10 psi spikes to 14psi in first gear.. wtf but only 9psi in 3rd
Lc-1 wideband
Modified by hitatree.at125mph at 9:54 PM 8/15/2006
Modified by hitatree.at125mph at 11:59 AM 8/19/2006
ok i have a build up im waitiing on my apointment to get tuned and i want to know what kind of hp numbers i am looking at making heres the list.. also what kind of timing should i have at peak.. at a high boost pressure i plan on maxing out the turbo or injectors.. im building a z6 head right now but till its done im gonna tune it on the y7
y8 block
y7 head stock cleaned and pressure tested new seals
srp 75.5 9:1
eagle rods
oem bearings
z6 crank
ARP head studs
felpro head gasket
aem fuel rail
255plh walbro in tank
t3/t4e 57 trim
large frontmount ic
types s bov
3 inch downpipe
open wastegate vented out the fender
750cc RC injectors
35mm tial 8 psi spring
profec b2 boost controller.. still cant get it to hold boost right..????
stock y7 tranny
stock flywheel
exedy stage 2 clutch.. i think its the 3 puck 400 whp rated
street tuned crome pro at 10 psi spikes to 14psi in first gear.. wtf but only 9psi in 3rd
Lc-1 wideband
Modified by hitatree.at125mph at 9:54 PM 8/15/2006
Modified by hitatree.at125mph at 11:59 AM 8/19/2006
08-18-2006, 09:21 PM
#3
Honda-Tech Member
Re: my new setup y7 (hitatree.at125mph)
I haven't had a chance to tune any y7's yet. Do their heads have similar combustion chambers to the y8 heads that bring the need for a limited amount of timing?
08-19-2006, 06:45 AM
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i think they have similar heads.. i think the y7 has a bigger combustion chamber than the 8... nopei havent got numbers i was waiting on my baby boy to be born before i could drive 3 hours away to tune it... so next weekend i have an appointment.. didnt want to leave my wife here on the verge of a baby and be like owell im tuning my car baby i cant come to the hospital hehe ill update soon as i get it dyno'd more pics coming soon
08-19-2006, 06:54 AM
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Re: my new setup y7 (hitatree.at125mph)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hitatree.at125mph »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
profec b2 boost controller.. still cant get it to hold boost right..????
</TD></TR></TABLE>
b2 is finiciky.
put 2 in cutsomer cars and since have taken them out.
nice setup though.
profec b2 boost controller.. still cant get it to hold boost right..????
</TD></TR></TABLE>
b2 is finiciky.
put 2 in cutsomer cars and since have taken them out.
nice setup though.
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08-27-2006, 11:22 AM
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Your going to run into several obsticals. To me it looks like you did a bacis internals rebuild and that's it.
stock head
stock block (block not internals)
(did you even use Factory Honda bearings?)
stock driveline except a soso clutch. (quaife will do wonders to improve relyability of the driveline.
What about syspension and breaking? can you turnt he corner or handle that dip int he road? what about stopping really fast? liek faster than stock because your speeding down the road, and some old lady in a boat pulls out infront of you? (it happens trust me)
that's jsut that part.
Don;t get me wrong I commend you for doing more than most do, but I also kinda think you wanted to knwo if you did it right, right? well you did a few things wrong and forgot about the rest.
you should have also spend the time and $ on the head. having a well ported and reqoeked head does wonders, So does .5mm larger valves and better valve springs and retainers.
beter than stock cam, and then an adjsutable cam gear to "zero" out the cam and get the proper P2V clearances.
did you deck the head and the block while it was appart to ensure you have perfect flatness? That cna go a long way when it comes to sealing the head to the block.
the clutch you got is a stage2, but it's not a good one in my books. I doubt it iwll last long if you go dropping 300+ hp on it for more than few months. als the stock er flywheel shoudl have been replaced. why? on a performacne car, stockers are DANGEROUS. they can crack and explode. YES explode. as is fracture or shatter and at high rpm it can send shrapnel in all directions. Whgy do you think NHRA does not allow stock or cast iron flywheels? Also the rotational mass of the aftermarket flywwhels allow for less weight on the rotation mas, this allows for much faster revs and throttle responce increases greatly. Thus performance increases. heavy flywheels are ok for normal stock cars, and low pwoered cars, and some road racing. (even top end road racers use lightened flywheels to get the better acceleration out of the corners).
anyway, to me it sounded liek you wanted good solid input and I hope some of this can be usefull to you. I'm glad to see you doing more than jsut a basic bolt and go and trying to impress everyoen that way, but to have a solid car, I think persoally you still have more things to do. It will be ok, but you need to keep a close watch ont he things I mentioned as possible issues.
good luck man!
stock head
stock block (block not internals)
(did you even use Factory Honda bearings?)
stock driveline except a soso clutch. (quaife will do wonders to improve relyability of the driveline.
What about syspension and breaking? can you turnt he corner or handle that dip int he road? what about stopping really fast? liek faster than stock because your speeding down the road, and some old lady in a boat pulls out infront of you? (it happens trust me)
that's jsut that part.
Don;t get me wrong I commend you for doing more than most do, but I also kinda think you wanted to knwo if you did it right, right? well you did a few things wrong and forgot about the rest.
you should have also spend the time and $ on the head. having a well ported and reqoeked head does wonders, So does .5mm larger valves and better valve springs and retainers.
beter than stock cam, and then an adjsutable cam gear to "zero" out the cam and get the proper P2V clearances.
did you deck the head and the block while it was appart to ensure you have perfect flatness? That cna go a long way when it comes to sealing the head to the block.
the clutch you got is a stage2, but it's not a good one in my books. I doubt it iwll last long if you go dropping 300+ hp on it for more than few months. als the stock er flywheel shoudl have been replaced. why? on a performacne car, stockers are DANGEROUS. they can crack and explode. YES explode. as is fracture or shatter and at high rpm it can send shrapnel in all directions. Whgy do you think NHRA does not allow stock or cast iron flywheels? Also the rotational mass of the aftermarket flywwhels allow for less weight on the rotation mas, this allows for much faster revs and throttle responce increases greatly. Thus performance increases. heavy flywheels are ok for normal stock cars, and low pwoered cars, and some road racing. (even top end road racers use lightened flywheels to get the better acceleration out of the corners).
anyway, to me it sounded liek you wanted good solid input and I hope some of this can be usefull to you. I'm glad to see you doing more than jsut a basic bolt and go and trying to impress everyoen that way, but to have a solid car, I think persoally you still have more things to do. It will be ok, but you need to keep a close watch ont he things I mentioned as possible issues.
good luck man!
08-27-2006, 12:25 PM
#12
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (oscarmayer)
Originally, my intentions were to NOT make a reply but after seeing some of oscarmayer's replies in other threads I decided to be a good hater-tech.com member and state the obvious.
oscarmayer - If you want someone to even think about taking your comments into consideration you might want to invest into some basic writing and reading comprehension skills. Oh yeah, SPELLCHECK owns you!!
Now on to the nitty gritty!
Ummmmm....What is reqoeked??
When did you become an expert on the dynamics of flywheels and when did hitatree.125mph mention anything about NHRA? Streetcars do not have to worry about NHRA rules until they start running faster than 10.99. 10.99 is not goint to happen with a T04E on a SOHC. Yes, a mucho dinero clutch/flywheel setup would be nice but there are quite a few members on this site who have had great success with aftermarket clutches coupled to stock flywheels on 400+whp setups. Since you are so schooled in the art of flywheels please tell us the downfall of using a lightened flywheel on a streetcar or a turbo car? What weight flywheel would you suggest? Be more specific when you give advice like this because a flywheel that is too light can actually drop the motor out of boost between shifts (rev up fast = rev down fast).
I definitely would not take the advice of a person who actually typed the word "turnt" and speaks in code
.
hitatree.at125mph - damn nice street car setup but you do need to get a better boost controller!!
Well, that's my hater-tech.com rant for the month
. Nothing like starting the week with a rant........ 05:30 8/28/06
oscarmayer - If you want someone to even think about taking your comments into consideration you might want to invest into some basic writing and reading comprehension skills. Oh yeah, SPELLCHECK owns you!!
Now on to the nitty gritty!
Ummmmm....What is reqoeked??
When did you become an expert on the dynamics of flywheels and when did hitatree.125mph mention anything about NHRA? Streetcars do not have to worry about NHRA rules until they start running faster than 10.99. 10.99 is not goint to happen with a T04E on a SOHC. Yes, a mucho dinero clutch/flywheel setup would be nice but there are quite a few members on this site who have had great success with aftermarket clutches coupled to stock flywheels on 400+whp setups. Since you are so schooled in the art of flywheels please tell us the downfall of using a lightened flywheel on a streetcar or a turbo car? What weight flywheel would you suggest? Be more specific when you give advice like this because a flywheel that is too light can actually drop the motor out of boost between shifts (rev up fast = rev down fast).
I definitely would not take the advice of a person who actually typed the word "turnt" and speaks in code
. hitatree.at125mph - damn nice street car setup but you do need to get a better boost controller!!
Well, that's my hater-tech.com rant for the month
. Nothing like starting the week with a rant........ 05:30 8/28/06
08-27-2006, 12:37 PM
#13
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Re: (oscarmayer)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oscarmayer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your going to run into several obsticals. To me it looks like you did a bacis internals rebuild and that's it.
stock head
stock block (block not internals)
(did you even use Factory Honda bearings?)
stock driveline except a soso clutch. (quaife will do wonders to improve relyability of the driveline.
What about syspension and breaking? can you turnt he corner or handle that dip int he road? what about stopping really fast? liek faster than stock because your speeding down the road, and some old lady in a boat pulls out infront of you? (it happens trust me)
that's jsut that part.
Don;t get me wrong I commend you for doing more than most do, but I also kinda think you wanted to knwo if you did it right, right? well you did a few things wrong and forgot about the rest.
you should have also spend the time and $ on the head. having a well ported and reqoeked head does wonders, So does .5mm larger valves and better valve springs and retainers.
beter than stock cam, and then an adjsutable cam gear to "zero" out the cam and get the proper P2V clearances.
did you deck the head and the block while it was appart to ensure you have perfect flatness? That cna go a long way when it comes to sealing the head to the block.
the clutch you got is a stage2, but it's not a good one in my books. I doubt it iwll last long if you go dropping 300+ hp on it for more than few months. als the stock er flywheel shoudl have been replaced. why? on a performacne car, stockers are DANGEROUS. they can crack and explode. YES explode. as is fracture or shatter and at high rpm it can send shrapnel in all directions. Whgy do you think NHRA does not allow stock or cast iron flywheels? Also the rotational mass of the aftermarket flywwhels allow for less weight on the rotation mas, this allows for much faster revs and throttle responce increases greatly. Thus performance increases. heavy flywheels are ok for normal stock cars, and low pwoered cars, and some road racing. (even top end road racers use lightened flywheels to get the better acceleration out of the corners).
anyway, to me it sounded liek you wanted good solid input and I hope some of this can be usefull to you. I'm glad to see you doing more than jsut a basic bolt and go and trying to impress everyoen that way, but to have a solid car, I think persoally you still have more things to do. It will be ok, but you need to keep a close watch ont he things I mentioned as possible issues.
good luck man!</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok dick its not a street car i dont carry insurance on it i just want a car i can take to the strip once and a f-in while omg a stock block with internals and a stock head.. take a look at this u **** https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1685347 i dont want to make anymore power than that .. yah i work for a living but i dont make that good of a living i have a wife in college and a newborn so i dont have thousands to throw at this thing.. and -- f- the NHRA
stock head
stock block (block not internals)
(did you even use Factory Honda bearings?)
stock driveline except a soso clutch. (quaife will do wonders to improve relyability of the driveline.
What about syspension and breaking? can you turnt he corner or handle that dip int he road? what about stopping really fast? liek faster than stock because your speeding down the road, and some old lady in a boat pulls out infront of you? (it happens trust me)
that's jsut that part.
Don;t get me wrong I commend you for doing more than most do, but I also kinda think you wanted to knwo if you did it right, right? well you did a few things wrong and forgot about the rest.
you should have also spend the time and $ on the head. having a well ported and reqoeked head does wonders, So does .5mm larger valves and better valve springs and retainers.
beter than stock cam, and then an adjsutable cam gear to "zero" out the cam and get the proper P2V clearances.
did you deck the head and the block while it was appart to ensure you have perfect flatness? That cna go a long way when it comes to sealing the head to the block.
the clutch you got is a stage2, but it's not a good one in my books. I doubt it iwll last long if you go dropping 300+ hp on it for more than few months. als the stock er flywheel shoudl have been replaced. why? on a performacne car, stockers are DANGEROUS. they can crack and explode. YES explode. as is fracture or shatter and at high rpm it can send shrapnel in all directions. Whgy do you think NHRA does not allow stock or cast iron flywheels? Also the rotational mass of the aftermarket flywwhels allow for less weight on the rotation mas, this allows for much faster revs and throttle responce increases greatly. Thus performance increases. heavy flywheels are ok for normal stock cars, and low pwoered cars, and some road racing. (even top end road racers use lightened flywheels to get the better acceleration out of the corners).
anyway, to me it sounded liek you wanted good solid input and I hope some of this can be usefull to you. I'm glad to see you doing more than jsut a basic bolt and go and trying to impress everyoen that way, but to have a solid car, I think persoally you still have more things to do. It will be ok, but you need to keep a close watch ont he things I mentioned as possible issues.
good luck man!</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok dick its not a street car i dont carry insurance on it i just want a car i can take to the strip once and a f-in while omg a stock block with internals and a stock head.. take a look at this u **** https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1685347 i dont want to make anymore power than that .. yah i work for a living but i dont make that good of a living i have a wife in college and a newborn so i dont have thousands to throw at this thing.. and -- f- the NHRA
08-27-2006, 01:07 PM
#14
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Re: (hitatree.at125mph)
the dude put a turbo on his car, why are u going off and saying all this bullshit?
That was one of the most retarded replies Ive ever seen.
Everything looks good, except that mani, it does have shitty gate placement.
But otherwise, good job
That was one of the most retarded replies Ive ever seen.
Everything looks good, except that mani, it does have shitty gate placement.
But otherwise, good job
08-27-2006, 01:28 PM
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yah i guess but my controller holds boost fine it doesent creep at all when i get my dyno sheets on ill post the psi graph too .. it hold steady from 22.3-22.5 the whole time
08-28-2006, 12:23 PM
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the dude asked for feedback on his setup. if you can;'t take someone's replyes, the stay the F--- off the web man. Don't post your info if your going to be a baby about it.
FYI, go read the nhra rules about flywheels then come back and correct me. it's not 10.99 it's much slower than that. 10.99 is when you are required to get a full CAGE if you keep the stocker firewall. othwwise it's 11.5 (if i rememebr the NEW rules change correctly for THIS year).
flywheels were liek 12.x if I remember correctly. and your required to have a trany sheild at that time too i beleive. (times might be a little off, but it wasn't at 10.99 I know.
Here is a clip
Clutch in
cars running 11.99 or quicker must be labeled as meeting SFI
Spec 1.1, 1.2, or 1.4.
then for flywheel,
The use of stock-type cast-iron flywheels and/or pressure plates
prohibited in any car running 11.99 or quicker. Units meeting SFI
Spec 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, or 1.4 mandatory in all cars running 11.99 or
quicker.
Nexttime before you talk trash to me make sure you have YOUR facts straight............
FYI, go read the nhra rules about flywheels then come back and correct me. it's not 10.99 it's much slower than that. 10.99 is when you are required to get a full CAGE if you keep the stocker firewall. othwwise it's 11.5 (if i rememebr the NEW rules change correctly for THIS year).
flywheels were liek 12.x if I remember correctly. and your required to have a trany sheild at that time too i beleive. (times might be a little off, but it wasn't at 10.99 I know.
Here is a clip
Clutch in
cars running 11.99 or quicker must be labeled as meeting SFI
Spec 1.1, 1.2, or 1.4.
then for flywheel,
The use of stock-type cast-iron flywheels and/or pressure plates
prohibited in any car running 11.99 or quicker. Units meeting SFI
Spec 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, or 1.4 mandatory in all cars running 11.99 or
quicker.
Nexttime before you talk trash to me make sure you have YOUR facts straight............
08-28-2006, 12:25 PM
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and to **** you off more...
2:10 FLYWHEEL SHIELD: OTHER CLASSES
All other RWD cars using a clutch and running 11.99 or quicker
must be equipped with an SFI 6.1, 6.2, 6.3, or 9.1 flywheel shield.
See Section 2:6 for motor plate and general requirements. There
shall be a minimum of seven 3/8-inch-diameter Grade 8 bolts or
high-strength steel studs in the top half of the bellhousing. There
shall be a minimum of eight 3/8-inch-diameter Grade 8 bolts or
high-strength steel studs in the bottom half of the bellhousing used
to fasten the bellhousing to the motor plate. Modifications or
repairs to the flywheel shield prohibited except if performed and
recertified by manufacturer.
Exceptions to this rule: Cars with Volkswagen and Porsche engines
are not required to have a shield when the engines are normally
aspirated and gasoline burning. Porsche engines must use a steelbillet
flywheel. All other RWD cars running 11.99 or quicker for
which an SFI 6.1, 6.2, 6.3, or 9.1 flywheel shield is not
commercially available may use an SFI 6.1, 6.2, 6.3, or 9.1
flywheel shield from another application and mount it to a motor
plate that is mounted to the engine block at all available bolt holes,
or it must be equipped with a flywheel shield made of 1/4-inchminimum-
thickness steel plate, securely mounted to the frame or
frame structure and completely surrounding the bellhousing 360
degrees. The flywheel shield shall not be bolted to either the
bellhousing or engine. The flywheel shield must extend forward to a
point at least 1 inch ahead of the flywheel and 1 inch to the rear of
the rotating components of the clutch and pressure plate.
All front-wheel-drive or transverse-mounted applications using a
clutch and running 11.99 or quicker, for which an SFI Spec 6.1,
6.2, 6.3, or 9.1 flywheel shield is not commercially available, must
be equipped with a flywheel shield made of 1/4-inch-minimumthickness
steel plate. Shield must surround the bellhousing
completely except for area of bellhousing adjacent to differential
and axle shaft. Shield may be multi-piece, with pieces bolted
together using minimum 3/8-inch-diameter Grade 5 or M10 class
8.8 bolts; may be attached to engine and/or bellhousing.
SECTION 12 - GENERAL REGULATIONS 83
GENERAL REGULATIONS
2:10 FLYWHEEL SHIELD: OTHER CLASSES
All other RWD cars using a clutch and running 11.99 or quicker
must be equipped with an SFI 6.1, 6.2, 6.3, or 9.1 flywheel shield.
See Section 2:6 for motor plate and general requirements. There
shall be a minimum of seven 3/8-inch-diameter Grade 8 bolts or
high-strength steel studs in the top half of the bellhousing. There
shall be a minimum of eight 3/8-inch-diameter Grade 8 bolts or
high-strength steel studs in the bottom half of the bellhousing used
to fasten the bellhousing to the motor plate. Modifications or
repairs to the flywheel shield prohibited except if performed and
recertified by manufacturer.
Exceptions to this rule: Cars with Volkswagen and Porsche engines
are not required to have a shield when the engines are normally
aspirated and gasoline burning. Porsche engines must use a steelbillet
flywheel. All other RWD cars running 11.99 or quicker for
which an SFI 6.1, 6.2, 6.3, or 9.1 flywheel shield is not
commercially available may use an SFI 6.1, 6.2, 6.3, or 9.1
flywheel shield from another application and mount it to a motor
plate that is mounted to the engine block at all available bolt holes,
or it must be equipped with a flywheel shield made of 1/4-inchminimum-
thickness steel plate, securely mounted to the frame or
frame structure and completely surrounding the bellhousing 360
degrees. The flywheel shield shall not be bolted to either the
bellhousing or engine. The flywheel shield must extend forward to a
point at least 1 inch ahead of the flywheel and 1 inch to the rear of
the rotating components of the clutch and pressure plate.
All front-wheel-drive or transverse-mounted applications using a
clutch and running 11.99 or quicker, for which an SFI Spec 6.1,
6.2, 6.3, or 9.1 flywheel shield is not commercially available, must
be equipped with a flywheel shield made of 1/4-inch-minimumthickness
steel plate. Shield must surround the bellhousing
completely except for area of bellhousing adjacent to differential
and axle shaft. Shield may be multi-piece, with pieces bolted
together using minimum 3/8-inch-diameter Grade 5 or M10 class
8.8 bolts; may be attached to engine and/or bellhousing.
SECTION 12 - GENERAL REGULATIONS 83
GENERAL REGULATIONS
08-28-2006, 02:11 PM
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lol i live in louisiana haha you really think they check for all that sh** no long as you dont have leaks your good to go i dont think ill run a 11.5 anyhow haha "LE Douche BAG" i asked for feedback on my setup not for the rules of the f-in nhra ... go get back into your primer crx with ur bad azz all motor ZC and spinnin hub caps from autozone.. dont forget to get the vtec badges so everyone knows not to mess with tha VTAKK son get a damn life L8ter
08-28-2006, 04:43 PM
#19
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (oscarmayer)
oscarmayer - nobody asked for information about the NHRA so do something useful like: ....... go drink some jet fuel or maybe run laps at Talladega during the Talladega 500 
Feedback is one thing but your incoherent BULLSHIT is a totally different thing!! Thanks for the copy and paste because you definitely saved us from being abused by your coded text again!!
Dammit - 2 rants in one week during the same month. I am becoming a true hater-tech.com member
Feedback is one thing but your incoherent BULLSHIT is a totally different thing!!
Thanks for the copy and paste because you definitely saved us from being abused by your coded text again!!Dammit - 2 rants in one week during the same month. I am becoming a true hater-tech.com member
08-28-2006, 07:18 PM
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Re: (Dee)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dee »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Originally, my intentions were to NOT make a reply but after seeing some of oscarmayer's replies in other threads I decided to be a good hater-tech.com member and state the obvious.
oscarmayer - If you want someone to even think about taking your comments into consideration you might want to invest into some basic writing and reading comprehension skills. Oh yeah, SPELLCHECK owns you!!
Now on to the nitty gritty!
Ummmmm....What is reqoeked??
When did you become an expert on the dynamics of flywheels and when did hitatree.125mph mention anything about NHRA? Streetcars do not have to worry about NHRA rules until they start running faster than 10.99. 10.99 is not goint to happen with a T04E on a SOHC. Yes, a mucho dinero clutch/flywheel setup would be nice but there are quite a few members on this site who have had great success with aftermarket clutches coupled to stock flywheels on 400+whp setups. Since you are so schooled in the art of flywheels please tell us the downfall of using a lightened flywheel on a streetcar or a turbo car? What weight flywheel would you suggest? Be more specific when you give advice like this because a flywheel that is too light can actually drop the motor out of boost between shifts (rev up fast = rev down fast).
I definitely would not take the advice of a person who actually typed the word "turnt" and speaks in code.
hitatree.at125mph - damn nice street car setup but you do need to get a better boost controller!!
Well, that's my hater-tech.com rant for the month. Nothing like starting the week with a rant........ 05:30 8/28/06</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok, ok, ok, I'm sorry, I had to do it. Lol.
oscarmayer - If you want someone to even think about taking your comments into consideration you might want to invest into some basic writing and reading comprehension skills. Oh yeah, SPELLCHECK owns you!!
Now on to the nitty gritty!
Ummmmm....What is reqoeked??
When did you become an expert on the dynamics of flywheels and when did hitatree.125mph mention anything about NHRA? Streetcars do not have to worry about NHRA rules until they start running faster than 10.99. 10.99 is not goint to happen with a T04E on a SOHC. Yes, a mucho dinero clutch/flywheel setup would be nice but there are quite a few members on this site who have had great success with aftermarket clutches coupled to stock flywheels on 400+whp setups. Since you are so schooled in the art of flywheels please tell us the downfall of using a lightened flywheel on a streetcar or a turbo car? What weight flywheel would you suggest? Be more specific when you give advice like this because a flywheel that is too light can actually drop the motor out of boost between shifts (rev up fast = rev down fast).
I definitely would not take the advice of a person who actually typed the word "turnt" and speaks in code
. hitatree.at125mph - damn nice street car setup but you do need to get a better boost controller!!
Well, that's my hater-tech.com rant for the month
. Nothing like starting the week with a rant........ 05:30 8/28/06</TD></TR></TABLE>Ok, ok, ok, I'm sorry, I had to do it. Lol.
08-29-2006, 11:38 AM
#24
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Re: (hitatree.at125mph)
and my frist post was feedback and I read it again, it wasn't BS, it wasn;t trashing you it offered sound feedback that I thought some of which might help, instead of reading it as direct feedback you chose to go ont he fedensive and take it as being trashed upon. I even told you i was being direct and not bearing around the bush becuse you were wanting honest feedback. I even told you kudos for doing mroe than most do to the D, but it still lacked a few things.
take it for what it's worth., it was exactly what you asked for and rather than looking at what I wrote you chose to act like and adoliscent and get all defensive. If I want to know something and I ask, I may not liek how someone states it, but I darn shure will listen, expecialyl if they have a;ready fone if mroe than me and done more than me.
How do I know, I've done it to the D. I'm making over 400 tot he wheels on a street car running 20psi on pump and will hit 28 on race w/o issues. so I felt my infor for you woudl be something you might actually look at as hey there is some good info here.
either way man, your car do whate ver you want. when stuff breaks, hey I tried to offer advice. know that at least 1 person did try to offer solid sound advice and provide reasons for my advice.
if all you couple of guys can do is bag on my typing, get a life. just because someone has better typing and spelling skills do not mean your better than someone. you know nothing about me. why not try to find out about me and what I do and how I do things before you go talking trash to me? GEE whata concept... know someone before you make a conclusion.
take it for what it's worth., it was exactly what you asked for and rather than looking at what I wrote you chose to act like and adoliscent and get all defensive. If I want to know something and I ask, I may not liek how someone states it, but I darn shure will listen, expecialyl if they have a;ready fone if mroe than me and done more than me.
How do I know, I've done it to the D. I'm making over 400 tot he wheels on a street car running 20psi on pump and will hit 28 on race w/o issues. so I felt my infor for you woudl be something you might actually look at as hey there is some good info here.
either way man, your car do whate ver you want. when stuff breaks, hey I tried to offer advice. know that at least 1 person did try to offer solid sound advice and provide reasons for my advice.
if all you couple of guys can do is bag on my typing, get a life. just because someone has better typing and spelling skills do not mean your better than someone. you know nothing about me. why not try to find out about me and what I do and how I do things before you go talking trash to me? GEE whata concept... know someone before you make a conclusion.
08-29-2006, 11:51 AM
#25
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Sick build im doing something very similar. Pistons + rods + plus boost on my y7. Im shooting for around 300whp or so. Debating on methanol injection. Good clutch mated too a stock flywheel will be sufficient. The way too make power out of sohc's really is porting since the heads do not flow anywhere near the amount of there b series bro's. A good porting and higher lift cam really do go along way in the world of d16's since they can use all cfm flow they can get. Good luck with your build. keep us updated so i can know what too expect from mine. Also one more question hows the timing in boost?
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