heres what i plan on purchasing here pretty quick for a b18c1 swap into a 98 civ ex...

Jackson Racing Supercharger
Boost Upgrade Kit
Liquid Intercooler System
***High-flow Cat
***Lightened Flywheel
DC 4-2-1 Stainless Steel Header
Thermal 3" Cat-Back Exhaust
AEM Short Ram Intake
AEM Fuel Pressure Regulator
AEM Pulley Kit
RC 550cc Injectors
ACT Stage II or Stage III Clutch
Auto Meter c2 Boost Gauge
Auto Meter c2 Air/Fuel Gauge
Hondata s200

*** = which kind

anything i need to add or delete from this order?? thanx

 

how much boost are you planning on running.

3inch exhaust might be too big. Most people go with 2.5inch.

Air/Fuel gauge is worthless by itself. Get an EGT instead.

Carsound High flow cat

Flywheel - stock Type R has been recommend for JRSC.

 

JRSC's for LS motors suck ***. They hardly make any power at all. I had a LS with the kit and the 8lb pulley with all the bolt ons and wasnt even making 170 whp. I wouldn't buy it. Go for a turbo.
gmoore

 

Ohh, carsound cat, Fidenza flywheel, and A/F gauges are too approximated to tune off of. I would go 2.5 exhaust, the JRSC kit comes with a regulator, and 550's may be overkill.
gmoore

 

He said B18C1. The JRSC can pump out some pretty good numbers on the GS-R motor.

3" exhaust on that setup will make your ears bleed.

Sonny

 

****, my bad. Yeah, I currently have a GSR with a JRSC. Good stuff. Never mind, stick with the SC then.
gmoore

 

'MachAF' i'm gonna get the boost upgrade kit, then get the crv pulley and get 10 or hopefully 11psi...

tegunderpressure so i should not get the AEM FPR then? 550s too much, what if i was gonna hook up a ZEX kit and do a 55 shot...would they be alright then?

 

i would go with a kamikaze header......and 2.5 inch piping..... 3 inch i think is too big as well..........

as far as injectors go i think dsm 450's would be good enough for 8psi with a 55 shot........also get digital 02 volt meter gauge.... from that u can get much mroe accurate readings......

but as far as ur stock motor being able to take all that power...i would do some research..

forget about the aem fpr and replace the jackson fmu with a cartech fmu...... that will work better for u..


P.S..without the upgrade hit i make 162 whp........thats not that bad.....

 

i did a search and found that the kamikaze header doesn't hold up as well as the DC...so i think i'm gonna spend a few extra bucks and get the most durable header...

yah 450s would work with 8psi + a 55 shot...but i'm wanting to go 10-11psi with 55 shot, so would the RC 550s be ok?

 

hmmm.......ive had my kamikaze for almost 9-10 months now....... still as good as new..........

yeha maybe then 550's would be better then.......for 10-11 with 55 shot....

 

pick your fuel management...this will dictate what you need. You will want to ditch the JR FMU immediately in stead of a cartech. You may or may not need the AEM FPR. Get a DC DAC shorty intake, its 3" as opposed to the AEM 2.5". Get a Hondata and you don't need the JR FMU, Cartech or AEM FPR. Don't get the AEM pulley's, unless you only keep the power steering one and sell the alternator one, the JRSC replaces the alternator pulley.

Also, try and buy some of this used...otherwise you are going to get raped.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tegunderpressure &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">JRSC's for LS motors suck ***. They hardly make any power at all. I had a LS with the kit and the 8lb pulley with all the bolt ons and wasnt even making 170 whp.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I didnt think that SC for the LS made that much power either. someone told me last satruday that a cat in CA. is runing 12's on his LS???? I found that VERY hard to swallow.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MouhadIb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I didnt think that SC for the LS made that much power either. someone told me last satruday that a cat in CA. is runing 12's on his LS???? I found that VERY hard to swallow. </TD></TR></TABLE>

im making 162 whp....................................on stock boost...no upgrade kit..that is untuned with everythign installed half assed by me ......that isnt much less than 170..... and im sure i can get more than 170 whp with the 8psi kit....but who knows......

i think i could pull close to 180-185 whp with the upgrade kit (but that is all speculation untill i actually get it put on)........ but i do have the m62 blower.......not the weaker m45 blower that the ls kits usually come with...

12's is very possible on an ls with the jrsc......although it would need to probably run about 10-12 psi, good tuning/fuel mods and some drag slicks........ it think it could run high 12's at least........


but like i said its all speculation....... untill there is some hard evidence of it...and that is the direction im headed in so we will see when i get there....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98civicguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
tegunderpressure so i should not get the AEM FPR then? 550s too much, what if i was gonna hook up a ZEX kit and do a 55 shot...would they be alright then?

</TD></TR></TABLE>


I would just stay with the JR regulator, it is rising rate so as the boost grows so will your pressure. I dont think the AEM one is. A 55 shot ontop of boost on a non build bottom is asking for it. Nitrous and boost is a very, very potent mix, and it not done absolutly perfectly, your going to mess something up. Even if it is done right, there are speculations that it messes up the bearing in a blower.

As for the guy who halfassed his blower install, your asking for trouble. If you dont **** up your engine your going to **** up the blower.
gmoore

 

if you're using bigger injectors (450-550cc) then there is NO need to raise your fuel pressures at all, with or without boost. especially since you'll be using hondata. theres no need for regulators and fuel rails. just get bigger injectors and you'll be set as far as fueling is concerned. put the money you saved into dyno time.

 

go here for all your supercharger luv...

http://www.hostboard.com/cgi-b...f=110

Some things are for sale as well.

If you can't afford a Random Technology 2.5 hiflow cat then I would recommend a testpipe and get an o2 simulator to get rid of the CEL.

I would recommend at Kami Header. On an 99-00 Si the ITR header has better fitment than the actual Si header. There are gaskets that fit better too as well. Such as the S2000 donut gasket but I was also hearing a Seville STS donut gasket works great is at a cheaper price.

As far as flywheel recommendations I would try a findanza flywheel or a JUN one if you can. Otherwise I budget flywheel is the ITR.

I would also look into getting a hondata intake manifold gasket, some water wetter or "Royal Purple Ice", JR thermostat with a switch that allows it to open earlier along with a high pressure radiator cap. This should "somewhat" help the cooling but the best would be those mentioned above along with a new radiator, possibly a Del Sol dual radiator along with FAL fans. The ultimate cooling would be the cooler offered by LHT performance. It replaces the JR supercharger manifold completely with a new one with a built in cooler.

The GS-R's are great, expect to run anything faster than a 13.6 at 100 since it's in a lighter car.

L8
mArZ

 

I would go with all on your list Excpet:

The Kamakazi header " for the money" is far the best, Replace the bolts and use a copper gasket and it will be fine. I have used tons of them.

ITR or stock flywheel , Anything else just hurts your traction even more.

Go with an intercooler instead of spraying water into the cylinders , water doesn't burn and will loose power. I have done alot with this.

2.5" exhaust will do just fine.

Use the largest body cat you can,, ie 3" carsound , better yet a test pipe.

Get some cam gears and have someone that can tune.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tegunderpressure &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
As for the guy who halfassed his blower install, your asking for trouble. If you dont **** up your engine your going to **** up the blower.
gmoore
</TD></TR></TABLE>

i know plenty of people in higher compression motors (b18c's and b16a's) that are running 10 psi all day long... and with no problems with their m62 blowers........some with just injectors and an safc (alogn with the 8psi upgrade stuff like the fuel pump and spark plugs and such)................i plan on having all this as well...... with a cartech fmu to boot.... not to mention this will be on a b18b...... a motor that is known to handle boost levels safer than b18c's b16a's.......sure if u compare the gains of a b18b with the b18c's and 16a's...the c's & a's will make more hp..but the b18b can handle it better......
i think i will be fine in the not blowing **** up department...... but who knows...... i guess we will see when i get there...........

P.S. =joking......i didnt actually half *** my install......

peace people.....PEACE!

......i appologise for going off subject of the post...... i just wanted to set things straight....


Modified by greekspeed at 6:25 AM 4/17/2003

 

i plan on getting a built motor...full P&P, lowering compression to 10:1, and all that OR should i just get the stock motor and buy the JRSC and all the goodies for proper tuning and reliability to run 10-11 psi, then after a while get the internals done with P&P job for the ZEX 55 shot?

so for my fuel management all i need to get is a hondata, better fuel pump, and 550 injectors? would the 550s be ok with the 10-11 psi of boost right now? later on i plan to run a ZEX 55 shot...would i need to get bigger ones when i get the ZEX, or should they be fine?

 

You must get a cold air intake over an underhood filter. Our testing on a 10 lb JRSC Civic DX has shown it to be worth an extra 1/2 a lb of boost right off idle. On a turbo RSX it was worth 0.7 lb boost and a faster spooling turbo.

We have a very hightly developed JRSC map - two weeks worth of time spent, in mapping a 250 HP 10 lb GSR with RC 440 injectors. Only a small amount of work will need to be done to convert it to 550 injectors.

The new mapping also implements VTEC boost. The minimum VTEC point is set to 2000 RPM (for a GSR). Whan you exceed 2 lb of boost VTEC is switched on. This significantly improves low end torque.

550 injectors will give you enough capacity to use the new nitrous control features of the Hondata S200 - a free upgrade which was released last week. A 25 shot of nitrous will be worth 50 HP due to the cooling effects.

Have your dealer contact me for the maps for this.

Jackson Racing - who use Hondata systems for their own race and supercharged staff road cars, should be hitting the California speedway this weekend for a first in in their new drag car.

Doug

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tegunderpressure &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I would just stay with the JR regulator, it is rising rate so as the boost grows so will your pressure. I dont think the AEM one is.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

He mentioned about getting a Hondata S200, so the JR FMU is not needed. However, a 1:1 FPR is need, which what the AEM is.

 

We do 90% of our boost tuning with the stock fuel pressure regulator.

 

1.) so like i mentioned in my last post; all i'll need to get is the hondata s200 system, 550s, and better fuel pump for proper fuel management...right?

2.) i plan on getting a built motor; full P&P, lowering compression to 10:1, and all that OR should i just get the stock motor and buy the JRSC and all the goodies for proper tuning and reliability to run 10-11 psi, then after a while get the internals done with P&P job for either a N0S 50 shot system or the ZEX 55 shot system?

3.) now what about my ignition set-up...should i get an MSD ignition box, which one?

4.) which and where can i get the belt that gives me 10-12 psi?? is it the crv crank pully?

thanx guys


Modified by 98civicguy at 10:50 AM 4/17/2003


Modified by 98civicguy at 12:01 PM 4/17/2003


Modified by 98civicguy at 7:14 PM 4/17/2003

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hondata &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The new mapping also implements VTEC boost. The minimum VTEC point is set to 2000 RPM (for a GSR). Whan you exceed 2 lb of boost VTEC is switched on. This significantly improves low end torque.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

how bad are the traction problems with vtec coming on so early? my friend's JRSC GSR spins the tires too easy already and that's with the normal vtec engagement point.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

He mentioned about getting a Hondata S200, so the JR FMU is not needed. However, a 1:1 FPR is need, which what the AEM is.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The stock FPR is a 1:1