jmross

Figured i'd post some photos as this forum has helped me out quite a bit.











I think this is where the catch can will go.

Still need to work out some bigger brakes. S2000 setup seems like a good option. I like the wilwood 12.2 setup but seems like a little over kill for what I use the car for currently. Eventually I would like to get out on the road course though. Any body using a power steering cooler that's not the oem style? It would be pretty easy to fab up some tabs for one right now as the bumper and intercooler are off.

boosted_D

iTrader: (1)

Looking good

What turbo is that?

Built motor?

Goals and set up specs?

93lsv_turbo

thats the go-auto kit right? was there a reason why you dont wrap the manifold too? it looks pretty damn good in there!

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

The oil cooler needs to be in another location and not behind the radiator in order for it to work properly. It needs to be in a separate location towards the side underneath one of the headlight assemblies.

Do you have an oil cooler thermostat?

jmross

Nah it's not a goautoworks kit. Phil at spoolin told me if I coat or heat wrap the manifold, it voids any warranty against cracks. I have a ptp turbo blanket too.

What's wrong with the current placment of the oil cooler? It's not behind the radiator. It's between the intercooler and the radiator. The cooler will get more air flow where its at rather then under the head light. It's not installed in the pic with the intercooler and the radiator mounted. It's also at a angle for Clearence. No thermostat, gonna see what the temps are and if need be put one in. I live in pheonix, so it's pretty hot around here.

Master power t3/t4
B18b block b18a cylinder head
Arp rod bolts
Arp head studs
Mls head gasket
Nippon turbo pistons(see how long they last)
Factory rods
Ported cylinder head
Crower valve springs and chromoly retainers
Jg 303 regrinds(thanks turbo ls)
Crower cam gears
Port matched intake manifold
68mm throttle body
Moroso oil pan
Spoolin log manifold
Wastegate dumptube and downpipe built by me
Tial 44 mm wastegate
Greddy type rs bov
Unknown intercooler
Currently has rc 440, but new injectors are on the way
Walbro 255
Hondata s300
Fidanaz flywheel
Comp stage 4 clutch
B and m short shifter(I think)
Every bushing under the car is either prothane, ES or hardrace.
H and r sports
Drive shaft shop axels
Quad pod guage bezel
Autometer guages
Aem wideband

All work minus machine work done by me.
Gonna be tuned by Tim at xact dyno. Shooting for 350 whp.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

No, you need the oil cooler thermostat so that it won't drop the oil pressure too low at start up. and will only go to the oil cooler when needed. I didn't say oil temp I said thermostat. This is what saves your bearings when there is too much of a drop in oil pressure. It acts like a water thermostat, and only comes on after the oil temp reads 185 degrees.

Secondly, that's not a good spot because of the turbulent air between the radiator and intercooler. I used to try and run it in those locations, and the cooler did not work well. It doesn't need a direct source from an open area on the car, but it does need to be in an area that won't experience turbulence.

Since you did mount it sideways, its fine, but you need to make sure the oil IN is at the bottom and oil OUT of the cooler is at the top.

Its not in a good spot, and you need a thermostat... Best recommendation you can get.. but, its your bearings, mate..

jmross

What's the reason for having oil in at the bottom and out at the top? I ran the car for a little while NA with out the cooler and just the remote filter, I noticed low pressure at startup even then. It was low just for a cuple seconds, then would build. The filter housing was in the same location as in the photos. So I would have to put the filter closer to the block and run a thermostat?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

You can run an oil thermostat closer to the filter since your oil sandwich from the block doesn't have one built in.

The reason for having the feed at the bottom port on a side mount like that is so that the oil as its pressureized upward won't lend itself to gravity and pool down towards the bottom and stay there, causing a starvation issue.

Even NA, the oil filter relocation setups always run lower than when they are at stock. This was the reason why I stopped using them in the first place over 6 years ago. But it will be even lower without that thermostat because the lines will fill with oil immediately at startup. With the oil thermostat, it acts as a bypass and won't let oil into the cooler until the oil temp is past 185... once it reaches past that point (it has a sensor on it) only then will oil go into the cooler.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

An example as to how it needs to be run. This is using a Mocal sandwich plate with a built-in oil thermostat in the stock location with no oil filter relocation.

Left hand corner




With bumper cover on.



Since you are using an oil filter relocation setup. you can use an independent oil thermostat. it would make you get a couple of fittings, but you don't lose the bearings. Air-to-air oil coolers are quite a bit different when it comes to oil pressure needs compared to the stock oil/water oil cooler.

Here's a separate oil thermostat

jmross

Got any expirence with power steering coolers?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Not on a gasoline application. On a honda it will never be needed... ever. the power steering fluid never gets to any higher boiling points than what's done on a stock engine.