My Electronic Boost Controller
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FredoSP »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">updates, this things looks nice</TD></TR></TABLE>
im in the orlando area and boosted, if you are having troubles finding a test subject I may be able to help you out. Pm me if you are interested.
By the way, props to you combining ambition and knowledge; its becoming very fleeting as of late.
dave
By the way, props to you combining ambition and knowledge; its becoming very fleeting as of late.
dave
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboCoop »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Honda-Tech.com--home to the smartest people in the world
too bad I just bought a Profec.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hehe, same here
too bad I just bought a Profec.</TD></TR></TABLE>Hehe, same here
Ah HAH!!
My car is back running!! WOOHOO!! Well it WAS until the brake line exploded because it had rusted through DOH. I just pulled the subframe and hopefully will be pulling the lines out tonight to have new ones made thurs. or friday. Car should be running next week again (crosses fingers).
Anyhow, I finally got back around to this project. I have the RPM/Speed sensor working (on the bench) and have started looking at how I want to test it in my car. The boost control code still needs work before I can even try it. I'm also going to start working on the PC interface to make debugging easier AND because I want something to output Speed, RPM, Pressure, and A/F to.
I'm shifting this project into full gear now that the car is running again so plan for updates on a weekly or biweekly basis!!
BTW: I'm also working on a low cost injector driver for peak and hold injectors! yaaaya!
My car is back running!! WOOHOO!! Well it WAS until the brake line exploded because it had rusted through DOH. I just pulled the subframe and hopefully will be pulling the lines out tonight to have new ones made thurs. or friday. Car should be running next week again (crosses fingers).
Anyhow, I finally got back around to this project. I have the RPM/Speed sensor working (on the bench) and have started looking at how I want to test it in my car. The boost control code still needs work before I can even try it. I'm also going to start working on the PC interface to make debugging easier AND because I want something to output Speed, RPM, Pressure, and A/F to.
I'm shifting this project into full gear now that the car is running again so plan for updates on a weekly or biweekly basis!!
BTW: I'm also working on a low cost injector driver for peak and hold injectors! yaaaya!
very nice work, this might be a stupid question but I saw that blundar was saying he could run boost dependent on the traction received from the abs unit, if you did that what would keep the a/f ratio in check. It seems to me that it might become to rich and bog?
I know that’s one of your ideas but I just wanted to see if you might be able to clarify
once again nice work, I am interested in buying one if the price is in my budget
I know that’s one of your ideas but I just wanted to see if you might be able to clarify
once again nice work, I am interested in buying one if the price is in my budget

Your ECU determines its fueling needs based on the manifold pressure. If the boost controller pulls back the boost, then the ecu will see this and reduce fuel accordingly.
Traction control could possibly happen in the future but currently it is out of the scope of this project for now. If I decided to get ambitious, I could write the code for it in the future but most people think its neat and then never use it.
Really the easiest way for me to offer (you) traction control is through Speed based boost control. It is easier to setup, easier to write code for, and in most cases just as good. The only flaw with speed based boost control is if indeed your tires spin, your speed will appear much higher and boost will increase according to what you have it setup to. A good workaround is to use a rear wheel abs sensor instead (harder to wire in since the wires arn't close to the dash) or just set the boost up RIGHT so that you have very minimal wheelspin. Obiously if you hit gravel, water, ice, etc. this all goes to hell and is where traction control would be great. Maybe one day.
Anyway, hope that helped.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all go teg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">very nice work, this might be a stupid question but I saw that blundar was saying he could run boost dependent on the traction received from the abs unit, if you did that what would keep the a/f ratio in check. It seems to me that it might become to rich and bog?
I know that’s one of your ideas but I just wanted to see if you might be able to clarify
once again nice work, I am interested in buying one if the price is in my budget
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Traction control could possibly happen in the future but currently it is out of the scope of this project for now. If I decided to get ambitious, I could write the code for it in the future but most people think its neat and then never use it.
Really the easiest way for me to offer (you) traction control is through Speed based boost control. It is easier to setup, easier to write code for, and in most cases just as good. The only flaw with speed based boost control is if indeed your tires spin, your speed will appear much higher and boost will increase according to what you have it setup to. A good workaround is to use a rear wheel abs sensor instead (harder to wire in since the wires arn't close to the dash) or just set the boost up RIGHT so that you have very minimal wheelspin. Obiously if you hit gravel, water, ice, etc. this all goes to hell and is where traction control would be great. Maybe one day.
Anyway, hope that helped.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all go teg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">very nice work, this might be a stupid question but I saw that blundar was saying he could run boost dependent on the traction received from the abs unit, if you did that what would keep the a/f ratio in check. It seems to me that it might become to rich and bog?
I know that’s one of your ideas but I just wanted to see if you might be able to clarify
once again nice work, I am interested in buying one if the price is in my budget
</TD></TR></TABLE>
that defiantly helped alot, thanks. i understand a small amount of cod, just enough to know that this has to be hard and it blows my mind the things that you are working on keep up the good work man
Nice work, I wouldn't want to code it all. I had more than enough of that making my vehicle monitor for my senior design project. I must have put in 40+ hours and i didn't have any control systems. I also am an EE and do similar crap on a daily basis
. Currently i'm converting code written for a Motorola GP32 to MicroPIC PIC18F4620. I must say it is a royal pain
. Currently i'm converting code written for a Motorola GP32 to MicroPIC PIC18F4620. I must say it is a royal pain
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stizzit »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Really the easiest way for me to offer (you) traction control is through Speed based boost control. It is easier to setup, easier to write code for, and in most cases just as good. The only flaw with speed based boost control is if indeed your tires spin, your speed will appear much higher and boost will increase according to what you have it setup to. A good workaround is to use a rear wheel abs sensor instead (harder to wire in since the wires arn't close to the dash) or just set the boost up RIGHT so that you have very minimal wheelspin. Obiously if you hit gravel, water, ice, etc. this all goes to hell and is where traction control would be great. Maybe one day.
Anyway, hope that helped.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If your even planing on traction control or even boost control dependant on speed you should use a non driven wheel as your input. Using a driven wheel as your input would never work simply due to what you just said. If your spinning the tires your speed would show as much higher although your not going anywhere due to wheelspin...
Anyway, hope that helped.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If your even planing on traction control or even boost control dependant on speed you should use a non driven wheel as your input. Using a driven wheel as your input would never work simply due to what you just said. If your spinning the tires your speed would show as much higher although your not going anywhere due to wheelspin...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Enzo-Racing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If your even planing on traction control or even boost control dependant on speed you should use a non driven wheel as your input. Using a driven wheel as your input would never work simply due to what you just said. If your spinning the tires your speed would show as much higher although your not going anywhere due to wheelspin...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Actually you use all the ABS sensors, AND the VSS. If you get readings that don't match or aren't very close, you know that wheel is slipping. This gets tricky when both from wheels are spinning because you have two ABS sensors saying the wheel is going xxmph and the vss says the same thing, but the car is actually going slower, as the rear wheel ABS sensors say, so you have to put a lot of thought into the algorithm.
Actually you use all the ABS sensors, AND the VSS. If you get readings that don't match or aren't very close, you know that wheel is slipping. This gets tricky when both from wheels are spinning because you have two ABS sensors saying the wheel is going xxmph and the vss says the same thing, but the car is actually going slower, as the rear wheel ABS sensors say, so you have to put a lot of thought into the algorithm.
Actually you only NEED the VSS and one rear wheel ABS sensor input. This will work if you have the target slip setup such that a turn ( difference in wheel speed) will not register as "slip" but it makes the control loop a little loose. If you use the VSS and BOTH rear wheel sensors you're golden. Anyhow, in order to implement this I would need more circuitry. Unless you want this to rival the price of many other boost controllers out there (That already do this) then it wont be possible with this particular version.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by toolowsol »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Actually you use all the ABS sensors, AND the VSS. If you get readings that don't match or aren't very close, you know that wheel is slipping. This gets tricky when both from wheels are spinning because you have two ABS sensors saying the wheel is going xxmph and the vss says the same thing, but the car is actually going slower, as the rear wheel ABS sensors say, so you have to put a lot of thought into the algorithm.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by toolowsol »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Actually you use all the ABS sensors, AND the VSS. If you get readings that don't match or aren't very close, you know that wheel is slipping. This gets tricky when both from wheels are spinning because you have two ABS sensors saying the wheel is going xxmph and the vss says the same thing, but the car is actually going slower, as the rear wheel ABS sensors say, so you have to put a lot of thought into the algorithm.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Enzo-Racing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If your even planing on traction control or even boost control dependant on speed you should use a non driven wheel as your input. Using a driven wheel as your input would never work simply due to what you just said. If your spinning the tires your speed would show as much higher although your not going anywhere due to wheelspin...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah I totally agree but in order to get to the rear wheel sensors, you have to pull off the passenger's side rear panel and tap into the ABS ecu wires which is a PITA! So if you weren't willing to do that, you would wire it into your VSS and accept that if your wheels start slipping and your VSS registers into the next speed-boost setting the **** will hit the fan lol. This is okay for a controlled environment like a track where you can use multiple passes to setup the boost by speed. Chances are that you would already have set it up close to the limits and if the track was slicker or stickier you would scale the entire boost-speed map down or up respectively.
Yeah I totally agree but in order to get to the rear wheel sensors, you have to pull off the passenger's side rear panel and tap into the ABS ecu wires which is a PITA! So if you weren't willing to do that, you would wire it into your VSS and accept that if your wheels start slipping and your VSS registers into the next speed-boost setting the **** will hit the fan lol. This is okay for a controlled environment like a track where you can use multiple passes to setup the boost by speed. Chances are that you would already have set it up close to the limits and if the track was slicker or stickier you would scale the entire boost-speed map down or up respectively.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post




