DaX

iTrader: (1)

Well, I've been at PrecisionH23a's house since Tuesday. We've been installing my turbo kit. Everything was going flawlessly until yesterday. There are a few clearance issues, mainly with AC lines, but I'm going to have my local Auto AC shop redo my hard AC lines to give more room for everything. The wastegate hits the hood skeleton, which can be notched. Outside of that, everything bolted on great. I need to invest in some better heat wrap...the **** I got from McMaster Carr may have a higher rating, but it looks shitty, and I hate it. We're also overheating at idle after it runs for a few minutes...we think it's air in the coolant lines.

The biggest problem we are having is with tuning. Anthony's laptop does not have a serial port, so we're trying to run two USB to serial adapters so we can use Romulator and Honda Logger simultaneously. Right now, we can get Honda Logger to connect, but the computer blue screens and restarts itself a few minutes into the connection. We got so fed up...I don't know how we're going to street tune.

Anyhow, here is my setup. As said, pictures to come [I just need to upload them from my camera].

Engine:
B18A1 - Stock block & Head

Tranny:
S1 [cable]
HA Sport cable to hydro conversion
Clutchmasters Stage 3 clutch
OEM flywheel - lightened to 11 lbs
Stock Diff
Stock Axles
GM Synchromesh
Fresh rebuild [all new bearings, seals, oil guides]

Fuel:
Walbro in tank 255lph HP pump
93 Octane
OEM filter
Fast Turbo Fuel Line Kit 2 [Filter -> Rail -> FPR -> Return]
AEM Fuel Rail
B&M Gauge
RC 550cc/min Injectors [P&H]
OEM Resistor Box
Aeromotive FPR

Spark:
NGK Wires
NGK BKR7E Plugs [gapped to .030]
OEM everything else

Turbo:
Turbonetics T3T04E [60 trim, .60 comp A/R, .48 turb A/R, Stage 3 wheel]
LoveFab Sidewinder Manifold
Custom 3" Downpipe [2 o2 bungs]
3" Thermal R&D Cat Back
NO Catalytic Converter
2.5" intercooler pipe
20x8x2" FMIC
TiAL BOV
TiAL 40mm wastegate
Custom 1.5" dump
NO filter [using screen]
Hondata S200B
Fast-Turbo Oil Feed

The hard parts of using the sidewinder:

Upper radiator hose - Get a good look at it...it's the best way we could come up with.
AC - be prepared to bend lines, use slim fans, and trim your fan shroud.
Wastegate Dump - Either it need to be wrapped, or everything around it needs to be wrapped. I have it routed what I think is the best way.
Hood Clearance - Be prepared to notch your hood skeleton.
Clearance in General - The area right above your tranny will be very busy. VERY busy.

These folks I'd like to thank for everything:

Anthony [PrecisionH23a] - You are the man. Thanks for helping me do everything. You are an invaluable resource.
Greg - The TIG welds are beautiful.
Stan [Flamenco-T] - Thanks for speed shipping the parts when I needed them.
Cody [Tinker219] - The manifold is magnificent...the quality of your work is incredible.
Viren [b18bturbo] - thanks for the parts...great seller
ImportParts.com
Hondata
Paul Pham [TurboTegB18c]
Tyson [Vtec92Civic]
Anyone and everyone that's ever answered a question for me, sold me parts, and everyone I forgot.

Oh yeah...I think we're shooting for about 220whp @ 6-7 psi. I plan on visiting Ed @ Balanced Performance in a few months to get dyno tuned.

I'll post up pics in a little while.


Modified by DaX at 9:41 PM 1/23/2005

Mad Cow

Why only 220? Your setup looks to be good for so much more.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

220 for the street tune. I'd like to get 250 from the dyno tuning. I also don't want to have too high of expectations you know...I hate disappointing myself.

Pictures posted.

tspkenneth

i should post a pic of my setup for you...pretty much the same thing..but i ran my radiator hose around my wastegate

Mx3Kfze

Im waiting for you matt, you will see the true power of the mazda SOOOOOOOON

Nice job bro, looks nice cant wait to see it when you get back tonight, and so we can finally settle the question }

tspkenneth

FOrSfEd

Thats a good idea with the radiator hoes

Rocks

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mad Cow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why only 220? Your setup looks to be good for so much more.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Same thing I was thinking. Tunning is the KEY

Tinker219

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FOrSfEd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thats a good idea with the radiator hoes</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ya, clean job!
The SideWinders are not for the faint of heart(nor the inexperienced). They are a pain in the *** on my end(wastegate for example), as well as the installers. This is why I said Fuggit and made my SST fit the 3" downpipe in exchange to have to change to a half radiator. Since then, I dont think Ive sold one SideWinder, yay for me, they are a bitch to make!

Boost Addict

******* sweet manifold

T3-T4TEG

looks good DAX! lovefab manifold is sick.

0xenocron

Looks good

Post a graph when you get some numbers down!

Joseph Davis

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">220 for the street tune. I'd like to get 250 from the dyno tuning. I also don't want to have too high of expectations you know...I hate disappointing myself. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Humility will get you nowhere, son. Shoot for 300 whp, and when the bottom end stops giving you that loving feeling run stock block with forged rods and shoot for 400.

Oh, yeah, kiss Anthony for me, eh? Last time I heard of him doing a turbo install for somebody, they didn't give him any love.

Mase

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J. Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Oh, yeah, kiss Anthony for me, eh? Last time I heard of him doing a turbo install for somebody, they didn't give him any love. </TD></TR></TABLE>

just give him your dog for the night, he'll take anything thrown at him....goat, pig, rooster, it dont matter, as he says, '***** is *****'

mildly.interesting

man, that's an awful lot of stuff going on in a really small space...good looking though!

92HB_HB

WOW, that's my Intercooler.. .. that i sold ya a few months back.. its kinda eerie seeing it on your car.. hehe... Good luck on your project!!

highschooler

how is that flexible dump tube working out so far? People claim that it leaks, but I am considering using it.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J. Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Humility will get you nowhere, son. Shoot for 300 whp, and when the bottom end stops giving you that loving feeling run stock block with forged rods and shoot for 400.

Oh, yeah, kiss Anthony for me, eh? Last time I heard of him doing a turbo install for somebody, they didn't give him any love. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the encouragement. I plan on getting it dyno tuned in a few months, so I'm sure we'll be able to extract a little more HP out of it then. I'll be sure to give anthony a big smacker!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mildly interesting &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">man, that's an awful lot of stuff going on in a really small space...good looking though! </TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree, but it isn't as bad as I thought.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92HB_HB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">WOW, that's my Intercooler.. .. that i sold ya a few months back.. its kinda eerie seeing it on your car.. hehe... Good luck on your project!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep. Fitment is great. Thanks a lot man.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by highschooler &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how is that flexible dump tube working out so far? People claim that it leaks, but I am considering using it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'll let you know in a few days. I'm going to get some thermal wrap and wrap it also, so that may help with the "leaks."

Mx3Kfze

sucks about your hold up dax, was looking forward to seeing it this weekend

DaX

iTrader: (1)

Well, a small crack in the back of the block is going to set me back for a while. I'm going to get the block repaired, and while I'm at it put forged rods and pistons in it [stock sleeves] and get a 3 bar MAP sensor. Should be up and running in a few months, pushing about 12psi. For now, I'm on the prowl for a beater.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

Got me a beat0r...90 DX 4 Door Auto...oxidized paint, bumper stickers...everything.

Tinker219

eek, whered the crack come from?

DaX

iTrader: (1)

It's been there for a while is my guess. I've known for the past 9-11 months or so that I've been losing oil. I am not burning oil <u>at all,</u> which means it's going somewhere. My only guess is that the long trip finally did it to the block...or that it just finally gave in. I did lose more oil than normal on the way out, and now after the install, we found the leak. At first we thought it was the sending unit, but it isn't. No big deal though...I've been looking for an excuse to get a beater, and an excuse to properly build the motor in the hatch. Once I get it home though, I'm still going to check the oil, fire it up, and take it for a few passes up and down my street. I've decided to just buy another block instead of have that one fixed [at the moment].

PrecisionH23a

Yep unfortunately we found the reason why matt was leaking oil. When first installing the brass tee I noticed there was a LOT of oil residue in the location of the oil pressure sending unit. You could also trace the path of the oil down to the oil pan, it even had a build up of oil on the oil pan gasket.

Anyways, we installed the tee and it leaked. Removed, installed more teflon, still leaked. I even used JB weld on the tee as a last ditched effort and it still continued to leak. After seeing a thread or 2 stripped, I tapped the block to a 1/8 npt and plugged it and used the GE sandwich plate. No dice.

Upon further inspection with a small dental mirror I was able to see the hairline fracture in the block at the pressure sending unit. So basically by disturbing the location by repeatedly inserting and removing the tee it opened up the crack more. To properly fix this crack you need to drill a hole at the end of the crack to stop further splitting and tig weld it shut. It's really a let down to have this happen, I was really excited to get this car on the road and tune. Matt definetely did his homework and has a very nice set-up. I'll post up a few more pictures later today.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

Anthony did great work too. I am thoroughly pleased with the way things went. After I finish paying off a few debts, I plan on getting the Hatch back up and running ASAP.