Muckman

iTrader: (2)

Break in update:

I had an issue last night. I was cruising around driving at a steady pace about 35mph and the engine just shut off. No noises, no warning. I coasted into a parking lot and tried to troubleshoot the problem. I thought the tbelt may have skipped a tooth but I couldn't tell. I ended up calling a flat bed and towed it home. When home I realized the tbelt was fine but I wasnt seeing any RPM input when cranking. I inspected the MSD Pro-Billet distributor to find this after 52 miles - a broken input shaft.



At the end of last season when I was rebuilding the engine I had sent the Pro-**** distributor back to MSD to repair this very same pin that had come loose. It was causing a fluctuating RPM signal. They told me the entire unit needed a full rebuild because being unbalanced like that had ruined the shaft bearings. The rebuild took 8 weeks and they charged me $150. But apparently they reused the same pin, just pressed it back into the hole and shipped it back to me. It was weakened from the previous incident and it broke 52 miles later. Its even rusty, clearly not a new pin.

Here's a pic of the pin from 2011:

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

This is the reason why I wont ever touch an MSD product. Not sure if you have a lathe available to you but thats an easy piece to make i think with some hardened steel dowel pin from mcmaster carr.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

if you could send me the dimensions i could probably have my buddy spit one out on the lathe real quick... could use chromoly or tool steel or anything lol

crvtectim

That's unacceptable. :/

Civek

Do you have any pics of the radiator thats for sale? and the dimensions?

kbouchard1092

That sucks on the MSD...Ive had issues with them as well. THe only thing MSD i really will use now is the External cap Kit. (and ive actually even had one of those fail. The magnetic spring loaded pickup for the external wire cracked and caused break up)

Im sure you will have that fixed soon, ill be conservative and go with 45 minutes from now, based on the rate of progress so far.

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

Lol almost. MSD is overnighting me a brand new distributor. Their customer service is top notch, its too bad their products aren't. Hopefully this one lasts. If not then Ill have to look at a different ignition solution. Maybe M&W next year.

Andy@AMR

Damn Muchman, your a baller..I just looked that part number up, and it's 175 bucks for 18pcs!! Yikes haha.

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

I looked up the wrong part number. Its ARP 400-8023 M8x1.25x1.75" I paid $95.

XxRoCkMaNxNEOxX

iTrader: (3)

that **** is nice.

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

Its just studs. I replace OEM bolts if they are rusty. So SS fasteners are no big deal.

kbouchard1092

Yeah its a big company they should have Good customer service. They didnt charge you im assuming? M&W is the way to go for sure....Would you get the pro 10 kit or COP set-up? Its one of those investments that just take alot of potential problems out of the equation.

Aesthetic Gains

iTrader: (1)

Really nice build Muckman.

I assume you left the lightweight wrist pins in there?

I first noticed the smaller pins when I swapped from Wiseco to JE. It will be interesting to see how well they hold up.

What software are you tuning it with?

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

No, they didnt charge me. Im positive this is a result of the previous repair they did. The original problem was that pin came out of the spring clip. The unit was sent in for repair, they replaced everything BUT the pin. Pin was reused, it was already damaged, breaks 52 miles later. Evidence of reused pin is the rust which wouldn't be present on a new pin.

I talked to a manager who took care of me. Sending me a new unit with saturday overnight. And they are paying to ship the old unit back too.

Id like to go Hondata Coil on Plug but I cant because Im on Neptune. The M&W Pro10 is the other logical choice. But honestly Id rather switch to Hondata for other benefits like traction control. For the time being Ill fix the MSD because its already paid for and it "should" have enough juice for the cylinder pressures Ill be running.

Yes the light weight standard pins are in there.

kbouchard1092

Yeah thats awesome they took care of you. Always makes you feel better when they stand behind there product.

I was thinking of getting the M&W 10...but i have the S300 and honestly the COP set-up would actually be cheaper. Evans tuning sells the whole kit i think for 850$ ( which actually comes with a billet distribtour cover and a plate kit so you can screw the coils down without having to cut off the flange. Its a pretty good kit.

Traction control would be pretty interesting to mess with.... and those lightweight pins will be fine, i cant see that being a issue.

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

While I am waiting for the distributor let me shift gears to another side project Ive been working on - Knock detection.

The factory knock sensor is not very good and is no longer functional with an aftermarket ems. The MegaSquirt guys use a product called KnockSense which uses a Bosch knock sensor and a small circuit board to filter out noise with adjustable sensitivity. It lights a LED when knock is detected. Its brilliantly simple. The only problem is the Honda knock sensor is a male 12x1.25 thread vs the Bosch is a female M8. Id need a step down stud or something to adapt the M12 down to a M8 inorder to mount it to the factory knock sensor location.

My first attempt we welded a M12 and M8 bolts together.


It fit perfectly but worked terribly.


The extended stud seemed to amplify the harmonics and the knock sensor would light off almost constantly even with the sensitivity turned all the way down.
*I later learned there was contact between the piston skirt and oil squirters triggering the knock sensor. I would still consider the welded bolt mounting method.

I found these helicoils that were M12x1.25 OD and M8x1.25 ID. However they required a special tool to lock the slide pins.
Mcmaster 90245A173


I came up with this bolt to evenly crush the pins.


That worked perfectly. Now the knock sensor can lay directly on the block.

1HGEJ2

iTrader: (1)

really nice build man!
but where is ur benson logo on the block?? is it an older block without a logo???
greets

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

Yeah it was sleeved in 2004 before he was doing the logo. This is my 4th time rebuilding this block. Its a tank!

1HGEJ2

iTrader: (1)

hehehe a tank
im from germany and have a brand new benson block without a logo too. can u say me when benson machined a logo on the block?

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

benson started the logo around 06 if i remember right... but don't quote me.
best thing to do would be pm them on here or email them

knock sensor... a reason why im glad i have an aem ems lol... i do want to run the bosch sensor though as its a much better sensor than the oem one

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

Im originally an AEM EMS user so I know about its knock features. Does anybody actually tune with it though? Ive never talked to a tuner who relied on knock input to tune. I just want a warning light. The KnockSense has a 5v output that I can log too.

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

Another side project -
Catch can? We dont need no stinkin catch can. The cheapest mod Ive ever done.

Giant 3/4" tube off the factory breather box. Vent that crap to the ground.

crxtc_vtec

iTrader: (2)

This build is freaking awesome!!! Nice idea on the catch can!!

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

Thanks. It's more of a dump can than a catch can though.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

i tuned our c6 z06 with hptuners... i use knock count a lot. 600rwhp on 93, everything under the sun done to the motor but still stock bottom end... 0 knock count across the board.