seen4ever

with the release of the new MSD b-series pro-billet Distributor, which requires an external ignitor & external coil. I was wondering what others thought of it. Basicly, i'm tired of change out OEM honda ignitors and i wonder iwth my current MSD cap & coil, if i could just wire in the new external ignition module and have a better quality unit.

http://www.msdignition.com/2005/2005_6.htm

just wonder what others think about the new external ignition module and the new distributor.

Boostfed

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by seen4ever &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">with the release of the new MSD b-series pro-billet Distributor, which requires an external ignitor & external coil. I was wondering what others thought of it. Basicly, i'm tired of change out OEM honda ignitors and i wonder iwth my current MSD cap & coil, if i could just wire in the new external ignition module and have a better quality unit.

http://www.msdignition.com/2005/2005_6.htm

just wonder what others think about the new external ignition module and the new distributor.

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I have one on order for a customer right now, I will post up results when it comes in.

richeybrooks

worthless if you have a stock one that works fine

seen4ever

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by richeybrooks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">worthless if you have a stock one that works fine</TD></TR></TABLE>

how long does taht stock one last............... I know my ignitor started going nuts right before i decided to pull the motor to rebuild some things this winter. I'm tired of hunting around junkyards for SOHC ignitors and such and spending over 100 bucks at a dealership is nuts. i have no problem dropping teh money on this one and converting it to OBD1 if it will stand up to big power.

Slick GS-R

iTrader: (2)

Bump for this one ... I'm in the same boat!

Slick GS-R

iTrader: (2)

I was thinking of either the MSD unit, the Distributor King or simply replacing with stock.

Does anyone have any feedback on the Distributor King unit?

BoOsTeD C1

Ive read that if your pushing under 400 HP the stock distributor is fine,anything over those numbers you may need to upgrade

EDIT: reading is fundamental

seen4ever

alot of people have ended up with mis-fire issues with the distributor king. the ignitor is the weak link in the honda ignition system, if this MSD unit turns out to be good, it could be the best 65 bucks spent.

seen4ever

back to the top, for a tech question that doesnt have to do with oil retun lines or EMS's

Slick GS-R

iTrader: (2)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by seen4ever &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">back to the top, for a tech question that doesnt have to do with oil retun lines or EMS's</TD></TR></TABLE>

sooo true

blundar

http://www.pgmfi.org/twiki/bin...ement

seen4ever

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blundar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.pgmfi.org/twiki/bin...ement</TD></TR></TABLE>

also see: https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=2

I thought about creating this box, but then again, i haven't heard of anyone having one on thier car for a long period of time. i may break down and just create the little box, but that still requires purchasing a MSD box, which i do happen to have, but then again, just buying a 65 buck external ignitor and selling my MSD 6a would result in more skrilla.

dome

iTrader: (1)

if you buy the dist. you will want to get the ing module. well you have to have it. it would be pointless to buy the dist without the module. the module wout work with the stock dist either. i am getting one. they one be releast till the 11th of april. i dont need the module because im running fast ems. i had to sent it back the fast so they could chip it out to hall effect. the dist is made for obd2 cars with stock ecu. i have spoke with msd on this.

seen4ever

why will the module not work with the stock distributor?

that makes no sense, its acting as the ignition control module, ie the ignitor, which takes the signal from the ecu and fires the coil. Are you sure it won't work, or are you just thinking that?

dome

iTrader: (1)

im just stating what msd told me. give them a call. you would need the 2 toghther to get the true hall effect. percise firing with no interfeance. contact them first. im waiting to get mine.. they might have just told me that so i would buy both. then i told them i had fast ems.

Slick GS-R

iTrader: (2)

I've decided that I'm going to buy a brand new distributor from Autozone for $249.99. The lifetime warranty can't be beat. Everytime my MSD ignition setup wants to overheat my ignitor then I'll just take it back to Autozone and get a new one!

AutoLab

Sean, Dustin has been waiting on his MSD dizzy forever, hopefully they really will come out in the next few weeks like the distributors are claiming.

If you get the MSD dizzy you may have to ditch Hondata and run with the big boys The MSD piece uses hall effect sensors from what Ive read, while the stock dizzy uses magnetic pickups. Basically the MSD is marketed for people running standalones.

seen4ever

bahhh, also read on thier website that it works with stock OBD2 vehicles, i have setup many OBD2 vehicles running hondata, so maybe that's what that external box really does, it performs a conversion to allow the stock ECU to work with it.

I thought stock hondas also used the hall effect sensors, or do they use sin? ****, confusion. but i know if i bought all of the MSD stuff, it would work, just inquiring into more details. yet seems no one really knows too much yet. maybe i'll just order one and see what's up.

boostedblack99

The irony of this thread being at the top of the page when I got to work today is beyond me with how fast this site moves. Anyways I am having some horrible misfiring issues with my race motor as well and have tried nearly everything. I am running the stock dizzy, stock plug wires and the MSD SCI box with the AEM EMS system. The car has a bad misfire at any steady RPM, for example if you just hold the throttle at 2k rpms it just has a constant misfire. If you just do a full pull on the motor it does not begin to break up until 5500 RPMs where it just goes nuts.

Last night we took out the MSD box and just threw a stock distributor and wires on it and it still does it the exact same. So now im wondering if it actually is an ignition problem being that we replaced it with a working unit and it still does it. Maybe its an AEM issue or a timing issue but its getting damn frustrating.

We will probably upgrade the ignition on that fact that we are making some very good numbers even with the misfire but I just want to know if someone can pinpoint the issue for us without having to guess and check.....any help guys?

Dragline

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AutoLab &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If you get the MSD dizzy you may have to ditch Hondata and run with the big boys The MSD piece uses hall effect sensors from what Ive read, while the stock dizzy uses magnetic pickups. Basically the MSD is marketed for people running standalones.
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I spoke with a tech at MSD and this will not work with factory Ecu's,(AUTOLAB) has done his research on this too and the hall effect sensor is why it won't interact directly with the factory ecu.

seen4ever

well could be a number of issues, how much timing are you running on your map? did you use a known good basemap for initial timing? you might be running too much or not enough timing. Or it could be the gremlin of the honda distributor.

i'm so confused then why MSD states the distributor will work with factory ECU????? I know the distributor has a trigger circuit for aftermarket ECUs, but i am throughly confused why it says it will work with factory ecus if the techs are stating otherwise. I guess i'll send MSD an email and find out.

boostedblack99

I believe our timing was around 17 if I remember correctly but I cant remember off the top of my head. Our basemap was taken from a car with a very similar setup. I just dont think it is the distributor now after we replaced it with another stock one and the same issue occured. We have some other bugs to work out and we are hitting the dyno again next week so hopefully we can get some **** figured out before then!

Dragline

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedblack99 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The irony of this thread being at the top of the page when I got to work today is beyond me with how fast this site moves. Anyways I am having some horrible misfiring issues with my race motor as well and have tried nearly everything. I am running the stock dizzy, stock plug wires and the MSD SCI box with the AEM EMS system. The car has a bad misfire at any steady RPM, for example if you just hold the throttle at 2k rpms it just has a constant misfire. If you just do a full pull on the motor it does not begin to break up until 5500 RPMs where it just goes nuts.

Last night we took out the MSD box and just threw a stock distributor and wires on it and it still does it the exact same. So now im wondering if it actually is an ignition problem being that we replaced it with a working unit and it still does it. Maybe its an AEM issue or a timing issue but its getting damn frustrating.

We will probably upgrade the ignition on that fact that we are making some very good numbers even with the misfire but I just want to know if someone can pinpoint the issue for us without having to guess and check.....any help guys?</TD></TR></TABLE>


It's hard to tell you what is causing this,it's probably a tuning issue with your ems but I would try checking your power supply or grounds or try adding a ground or just hook up some kind of voltage meter to check for excessive voltage drop at the coil during the miss fire conditions.

boostedblack99

I guess i hope it is a tuning issue as that is just a matter of time to get dialed ou but the guess and check of buying parts is gonna get expensive. Id like to do it right the first time but im sure it will cost over a thousand dollars for all of the right components together. The COP is looking more appealing everyday!

Slick GS-R

iTrader: (2)

How do your plugs look? Are the wires in good shape as well?