MintFlavored

Ok, after a few days of testing and swapping parts, I have a good description of my problem.
I'll explain my setup first:
1996 Civic with B18B and Drag 3 turbo
MSD SCI-L and Blaster-3 coil, msd distributor cap, Honda wires
BKR7E NGKs gapped to .03
DSM 450cc injectors, recently cleaned and balanced
SMC
Walboro 255lph intank fuel pump
Stock FPR


At first, I thought my was my fuel pressure being to high, because my car would start and then die immediately, and as I tried driving it, it would buck and misfire (sputter and hesitate) like the cylinders were flooded. However I changed from a venom fpr to my stock one, and that didn't do anything. My fuel pressure is about 40psi at idle with the vacuum line, but I've been told that is acceptable. After that I pulled my plugs and cleaned them with some fine grit sandpaper (they were totally fouled), and then my car would run, but still no idle. I took it out for a spin, and it performed great, except for that fact that I had to sit at lights with my foot on the gas so the engine wouldn't die... When I tried driving it again later that night, it had the same symptoms as before: immediately dying at idle, and very bad sputtering/hesitation while driving. This morning I put in new BKR7Es, and the car ran great! It held an idle and would rev freely with no hesitation. A few minutes later, guess what, the same thing started happening.
If anyone has had this problem, or knows what it is, I'd appreciate the help...

Cliffs:Car runs fine with new plugs, but after a few minutes, it won't idle and sputters/hesitates under any load.

Boostfed

Possible bad map sensor or maybe check valve dirty has happened, don't want to let it go for awhile know people to wash there bores down and thrust bearings and motah go boom.

MintFlavored

Are these the symptoms of a bad map sensor? What would be the easiest way to check this?
I was starting to think it might be an ignition problem... Does anyone have any other ideas?

B18EG6

your in columbia? guess who else is......

zip

Decrease the idle-1.5K screw position to -55%, clockwise, and then press the program button. Determine if the fuel flow has decreased.

General adjustment rules for the SMC:

A) turn adjustment screws clockwise = less fuel delivered

B) turn adjustment screws counterclockwise = more fuel delivered

MintFlavored

Hey zip, good to hear from you. I've tried idle settings from 0 to 55, and I'm not sure if I can tell any difference... It'll start, and just die out. When I have clean plugs, it runs ok, but they must become fouled and not able to spark well anymore.
I haven't done it recently, but I did get a voltmeter out, and check my mapin and mapout voltage at the smc, and it looked like the box was doing its job. I'm not sure though... do you have any other ideas? Maybe more things I can check to ensure the smc is working properly?

Edit: When the plugs are clean, I do notice a change in how well it idles when I change the screw. I guess that means the box is working... Also, my brand new plugs are fouled again, just from idleing and revving in my driveway. Stumped!

B18EG6: I have a Silver EM Coupe with a buddy club body kit, maybe you've seen me around?


[Modified by MintFlavored, 11:07 PM 11/2/2002]


[Modified by MintFlavored, 11:10 PM 11/2/2002]

MintFlavored

Bump for more help.
Could this be ignition? Maybe the ignitor...

Edit: I checked, and I have spark at all 4 cylinders, and spark from the coil. When I started it up this morning, it started, and idled very smoothly for about 3 or 4 seconds, then died. I tried starting again, and it does the same thing. I also checked all of my injectors, and they're all clicking.

Even if you don't know what it is, can you give me more things to check out? I'm really trying to think what is wrong. I've been searching all morning and am still stumped...


[Modified by MintFlavored, 6:05 PM 11/3/2002]

B18EG6

sorry cant help you...i think i have seen you around tho.

to the top cause i want to see whats wrong

MatT3T4

As soon as I saw MSD SCI, I thought...ignitor.

Pull off your cap and investigate.

MintFlavored

Well, I've tried a new ignitor, regapping my plugs, and a new map sensor. I also checked, and my smc is working. Sooo... I'm drilling my fpr now. If that doesn't work, does anyone have any other ideas?? I'm totally baffled

technine

My friend had the same problem on his boosted d16z6. It was a bad check valve and his map was screwing up. It would run really rich and foul his plugs in 5 min of idling. Changed it out and that was it, problem solved. Maybe it's your MAP sensor, go to a pick and pull yard and get another one and try that.

MintFlavored

That's exactly what it seemed like to me! I pulled a map sensor off of another engine in my garage, cranked it up, and... the same thing happened.
So, to go over what I've done:
Switched venom fpr back to stock
New plugs, regapped
New Ignitor
New map sensor
Rewired SMC, Injector Resistors - all soldered
Checked that SMC map in/out voltage is ok (thanks zip)

Jeez, what could be left!? I need help...





[Modified by MintFlavored, 1:11 AM 11/5/2002]

MintFlavored

More great news. I went to pull my fpr off of my venom rail, and guess what! Both bolts broke in half at the rail. Man, my car is giving me nothing but love now. This is more that just a bump. It's more whining! Wow.

zip

If all else fails, remove the resistors and install the stock injectors. If it idles fine and the plugs do not foul then you know it's not ECU or ignition related. If the plugs do foul, then you may have a faulty ECU or ignition problem.

MintFlavored

Not fixed yet... add to above list: Put on stock fuel rail, drilled fuel pressure regulator. Next I'm going to put my stock fuel pump back on. We'll see soon what the deal is. Could ALL of my injectors be broken? ...

MintFlavored

Tell me if you think doing one of these things would help, and why you think so:

1. Replace Resistors with OBD0 Resistor Box

2. Replace DSM 450cc Injectors with another set of DSM 450cc Injectors

3. Number 1 and Number 2

4. Replace DSM 450cc Injectors and Resistors with RC 440cc Saturated Injectors

I am very very frustrated. Help!

MintFlavored

Anyone

turbod16y8

check your o2 sensor!!! i had the same problem. it was my o2 sesnor

MintFlavored

So I was getting a Bank 1, Sensor 1 Cel. I pulled the o2 sensor, and swapped it with the one behind my cat. I then pulled the negative terminal from my battery, and unplugged my computer, hoping to reset the long term fuel trim. I let it sit like that over night, then plugged everything back in, and it still doesn't work.
I haven't pulled the codes again, but does anyone have any more ideas!? It's been almost 2 weeks without my civic. Gah.

MintFlavored

Here's what I think I'm gonna do.
Pull my plugs, and replace with another fresh set of BKR7s, if the ones in there are as fouled as I think they are.
Reset my computer, again.
Give offering to car gods.

If all of that doesn't work, do you guys think swapping my 10W10Ohm resistors for a oem honda resistor box would make any difference?? Should that be my next step? I should probably pull the codes again too. This is really frustrating, because it should work! What the hell is going on.

genop

so right now you have the secondary o2 sensor where the primary sensor goes and a broke sensor in the secondary spot? I dont know if this is true, but someone told me you cant use the secondary sensor as the primary sensor......your car will also give you problems since the secondary sensor isnt working.