More boost from JRSC?
I have a JRSC on my GSR, its currently in the shop for an overtorqued gasket. The guy calls me up and asks if I wanted to go for a bigger pulley. Its got the 8lb on it now, and is running 7-8lbs through the rpm band. They wanted to go for a 10-11 pound pulley. The car is tuned on the pulley, A/F is fine, no detonation. If I spent a few hours on the rollers with the new pulley, do you think it would be safe?
gmoore
gmoore
They just called back saying the compression is too high for more boost.
Two options-
Throw a little n20 kit on there and call it a day.
Put on a thicker head gasket, lowering the compression, and then a bigger pulley.
Concerns-
Boost- I dont have traction now, 2.47 second 60 footers. More boost isnt going to help.
N2o- The car is in the shop every other weekend as is (note- we have been fixing the **** ups from the last guy that put the blower on) , I dont need any more **** from spraying.
Maybe this car will run to 150k miles after we get it worked out, in which case Im happy to put more money into it. I can honestly say its been in the shop more than Ive had it in my possesion. I really dont want anymore trouble. Everyone tells me spray spray spray, but they arent the ones that have to pay for the pistons I burn a hole through.
I need some help quick, we have the whole blower tworn off, and if were going to make another move, now is the time.
gmoore
Two options-
Throw a little n20 kit on there and call it a day.
Put on a thicker head gasket, lowering the compression, and then a bigger pulley.
Concerns-
Boost- I dont have traction now, 2.47 second 60 footers. More boost isnt going to help.
N2o- The car is in the shop every other weekend as is (note- we have been fixing the **** ups from the last guy that put the blower on) , I dont need any more **** from spraying.
Maybe this car will run to 150k miles after we get it worked out, in which case Im happy to put more money into it. I can honestly say its been in the shop more than Ive had it in my possesion. I really dont want anymore trouble. Everyone tells me spray spray spray, but they arent the ones that have to pay for the pistons I burn a hole through.
I need some help quick, we have the whole blower tworn off, and if were going to make another move, now is the time.
gmoore
The way I see it, more boost = more power but more heat. Nitrous = cooler charge, more power, but increased cylinder pressures.
You definitely need to find a new mechanic man, I hope this one works out. You KEEP getting screwed by improper work.
I would go with nitrous personally and plan on doing the same.
You definitely need to find a new mechanic man, I hope this one works out. You KEEP getting screwed by improper work.
I would go with nitrous personally and plan on doing the same.
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This is what the shop is saying to, spray. Everyone on hostboard will say spray too, they love it. BTW, newgsrdriver, they just keep finding **** that the last guy messed up. For instance, on the valve that controls air flow for idle, I think, the previous guy left a screw out of the assembly out of 4 total. I honestly dont think these guys are messing anything up, they have a TA pushing 1200 whp.
Their advice was to get it running well, then well push it allitle harder. Their advice, get better tires, and spray alittle 15shot. So Im gonna have it back tommarrow, run it for a month, if all is well, we'll go for the 15 shot.
Thanks for the help.
gmoore
Their advice was to get it running well, then well push it allitle harder. Their advice, get better tires, and spray alittle 15shot. So Im gonna have it back tommarrow, run it for a month, if all is well, we'll go for the 15 shot.
Thanks for the help.
gmoore
... you might want to just get things right and drive it that way before upgrading. That way, you can gauge the honesty of the mechanic you are currently using. The fact that they have a 1200Hp Trans Am means nothing to you when you need to have your car dependable for the daily grind. It would be more important that he has a line of Hondas and Acuras waiting for his service because he knows that reliability is more important than 5 sec of axle breaking power followed by the disheartening silence of a blown engine.
Not everybody on Hostboard advises to spray. It's good that you're looking at a small shot first, but you may have some room to go before you've tapped out the mechanicals. I'm at 10psi, dyno'd 251Hp/181lb-ft and have over 60,000 boosted miles on myGSR in a little over 18 months, but then again I went with Hondata and never looked back. If you are confident in your tuning without trouble spots, only then should you look at upping the power.
good luck...
Not everybody on Hostboard advises to spray. It's good that you're looking at a small shot first, but you may have some room to go before you've tapped out the mechanicals. I'm at 10psi, dyno'd 251Hp/181lb-ft and have over 60,000 boosted miles on myGSR in a little over 18 months, but then again I went with Hondata and never looked back. If you are confident in your tuning without trouble spots, only then should you look at upping the power.
good luck...
It was tuned only two weeks ago. With a fine A/F ratio, no detonation, and it climbed without a sputter. Theyre good guys, they know I need the car to get me from a to b and down the strip.
I suggested getting the head off and the new pulley in now, while we were in there, but they said no, lets wait and get it all straightened out before we push it even farther, so their intentions are good.
gmoore
I suggested getting the head off and the new pulley in now, while we were in there, but they said no, lets wait and get it all straightened out before we push it even farther, so their intentions are good.
gmoore
Not trying to plug our products.
But the Blower exit temps are in the 240s at around 11 psi , That's why we built the intercoolers. My exit tepms at 8psi are arounf 110 deg.
Every setup is differant, But the blowers effeciancy is around 10psi on a 1.8L.
But the Blower exit temps are in the 240s at around 11 psi , That's why we built the intercoolers. My exit tepms at 8psi are arounf 110 deg.
Every setup is differant, But the blowers effeciancy is around 10psi on a 1.8L.
Stock GSR compression, 11:1? My shop and myself believe that spraying may be the better route because as we raise boost we raise temps. As a matter of a fact, I believe the JR site says anything above 11psi on their blower will cause a loss in power because of the heat produced. So we are probably going to spray in the near future to cool it down.
gmoore
gmoore
CRVRX has a wicked design for an intercooler. If I had the cash, I'd snap one up ASAP.
But for those who don't have the MaDd cAsH for an IC, or teh Nawssssss, there is always the water spray route. Combined with a Zip boost limiter, we run a combination of 50% water, and 50% alcohol.
I didn't have the datalogging connected at the time, but the car pulled like a bastard. The butt dyno was pleased
More info to come, once the lazy assed machine shop gets my block done.
But for those who don't have the MaDd cAsH for an IC, or teh Nawssssss, there is always the water spray route. Combined with a Zip boost limiter, we run a combination of 50% water, and 50% alcohol.
I didn't have the datalogging connected at the time, but the car pulled like a bastard. The butt dyno was pleased

More info to come, once the lazy assed machine shop gets my block done.
You could always just try the alcohol injection route. I have an alcohol setup that I will be installing in a few weeks to lower my intake temps...hopefully this will lower it considerably and be very cost effective..
Alchohol will burn, but it wont "explode" right? So its not really benefitting or harming the combustion process, its just lowering the intake charge right?
My main concern is the price, for most of the kits you could buy an n2o kit for the same price. And also, I wouldnt tune while using the alchohol, I would forget to fill it, and be screwed. Any other ideas?
gmoore
My main concern is the price, for most of the kits you could buy an n2o kit for the same price. And also, I wouldnt tune while using the alchohol, I would forget to fill it, and be screwed. Any other ideas?
gmoore
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tegunderpressure »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Alchohol will burn, but it wont "explode" right? So its not really benefitting or harming the combustion process, its just lowering the intake charge right?
My main concern is the price, for most of the kits you could buy an n2o kit for the same price. And also, I wouldnt tune while using the alchohol, I would forget to fill it, and be screwed. Any other ideas?
gmoore</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm using the Aquamist base kit (simple pressure switch) injecting H2O/Methanol in a 50/50 mix on my 8 psi B18C1 and it works wonders. I still get a little a little tip in detonation (Hondata is pending) but when i'm in boost its awesome. Much better then water alone.
P.S. I can literally watch the intake temps go down dramatically while the water/meth is spraying under boost (autometer intake temp gauge inserted directly into the manifold).
P.P.S. I would love to install the LHT intercooled manifold but that's going to have to wait until I save a little $$$ The Aquamist kit I bought used and it only cost $300.
Mike
My main concern is the price, for most of the kits you could buy an n2o kit for the same price. And also, I wouldnt tune while using the alchohol, I would forget to fill it, and be screwed. Any other ideas?
gmoore</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm using the Aquamist base kit (simple pressure switch) injecting H2O/Methanol in a 50/50 mix on my 8 psi B18C1 and it works wonders. I still get a little a little tip in detonation (Hondata is pending) but when i'm in boost its awesome. Much better then water alone.
P.S. I can literally watch the intake temps go down dramatically while the water/meth is spraying under boost (autometer intake temp gauge inserted directly into the manifold).
P.P.S. I would love to install the LHT intercooled manifold but that's going to have to wait until I save a little $$$ The Aquamist kit I bought used and it only cost $300.
Mike
Theres no doubt in my mind it will lower intake temps, but can you actually feel a jump in power? Im still very skeptical that it could even come close to the 25/30 whp Im gonna see from a 15 shot.
gmoore
gmoore
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tegunderpressure »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Theres no doubt in my mind it will lower intake temps, but can you actually feel a jump in power? Im still very skeptical that it could even come close to the 25/30 whp Im gonna see from a 15 shot.
gmoore</TD></TR></TABLE>
I bet the water injection would give someone a very slight but noticeable gain on the butt dyno...and maybe 5-10 hp on a real dyno. Mainly because at night my car seems to run the best. (outside temps drop from 80 degrees to 60 degrees); And that's when my car feels faster...I imagine it being the same feeling with the water injection.
Also, I have a friend whom has a 50 shot in his non-supercharged car. When he had the fuel and timing tuned he picked up 60 hp off his 50 shot. I believe some of the JRSC + Nitrous claimed gains are partially due to tuning.
PS. don't flame...just my .02 cents.
Modified by i2un at 9:35 PM 7/2/2003
gmoore</TD></TR></TABLE>
I bet the water injection would give someone a very slight but noticeable gain on the butt dyno...and maybe 5-10 hp on a real dyno. Mainly because at night my car seems to run the best. (outside temps drop from 80 degrees to 60 degrees); And that's when my car feels faster...I imagine it being the same feeling with the water injection.
Also, I have a friend whom has a 50 shot in his non-supercharged car. When he had the fuel and timing tuned he picked up 60 hp off his 50 shot. I believe some of the JRSC + Nitrous claimed gains are partially due to tuning.
PS. don't flame...just my .02 cents.
Modified by i2un at 9:35 PM 7/2/2003





