minimarine09

hey there! just figured i would share my dd/ project and maybe get a little advice on what route to go with some parts.

just purchased a 94 integra with an ls vtec block. i think it has much potential.

mods-

built b18b bottom end bored .40 over (1.9L?)
wiesco pistons (11.5:1)
shot peened ls rods resized with arp rod bolts
balanced, micro polished ls crank
acl race bearings and arp hardware
stock b18c head with ported to match the IM which is also ported out to big runners
header back exhaust
ls trans
chipped p28 on chrome, dyno'd at 200whp
lowered
fresh paint (Cadillac black with gun metal flakes) CLEAN
short shifter
completely gutted out behind the front seats, its like im driving around a lowered s10 lol

anyways, coming from the evo world i am missing boost terribly... i plan on slowly piecing together a hot parts kit then just getting a cheap intercooler/piping kit from ebay ive been doing alot of research on this and have decided on getting a turbo that flows approx 50-60lbs/min but still un decided.

anyone out there with a boosted lsv that would like to give their input on turbo set ups would be much appreciated, ill be running pump 93 and my goals are about 300 maybe 350whp give or take and ill be happy, im sure my goals will just go up in the future though.

since my compression is a little higher than desirable for a boosted set up, the fuel might not like the compression or added boost and might detonate easy, im assuming ill only be able to run ~10psi. so any input on your experiences with certain turbos would be much appreciated!

needed shopping list (missing anything?)

turbo
mini ramhorn or cast iron
tial 38mm wg
tial bov (size?)
DP (dont caare about A/c)/ dump tube
oil lines/fittings/ gaskets
intercooler/piping (most likely gonna be ebay)
walbro 255
550cc injectors
gauges (boost, oil press, w/b)
hondata s300 or neptune rtp (leaning towards neptune)
...
am i missing anything? thanks! heres a pic of the car, more to come!

turbohf

looks like you got a good start there.


my opinions:

you dont need a tial bov, but im always a fain. i have one on the GVR4, and would have bought one for my Integra but a DSM one was cheaper. lol. but if your buying a piping kit it will probably be flanged already. greddy rs or hks ss usually.

i vote neptune, cuz im not a fan of the other... should be said that im using neither? lol

i would stay away from the ramhorn, cuz from the sounds of it your gonna buy cheap ****, and will probably crack. im going to be running a cast mani. i have used them on my last 3-4? projects, and friends car.

your missing lots of **** off your list lol. there is always more stuff you will need. wideband is noticeable absent.
i assume it has a 2.5" exhaust on it? if so thats fine if its got a straight threw muffler.

not sure how well 11.5:1 is gonna do on pump. E85 maybe. but my ITR was 11:1 with cast pistons, did fine for a year at around 300-320whp on 92oct. so you might be ok? with a larger turbo (like your 50-60lbs) should help. mine was on a PTE 50trim.


i could probably dig up a link to my oldsetup... but i think HT blocks it...

kyden

50/57/60 trim will fit your goals fine. 300-350 can be done without breaking a sweat on pump gas. you don't need 60lb/min to get there.

minimarine09

i mentioned a wideband under "gauges" and honestly i dont see much more that im missing besides maybe a half radiator/fan. im not planning on buying cheap ****, im a big believer in doing things right the 1st time, i only mentioned ebay for the IC piping. tube is a tube i always say lol. what else can you think of that im missing to boost it?

what size turbos do you recommend? i would like a little room to grow in the future, so i dont want the turbo to do nothing but blow hot air and cause me to keep the timing down. i understand the trims you are suggesting, but a trim is just a portion of the answer that im looking for lol

i apologize for any ignorance im so used to the 4g63 and how it reacts to difft turbos, im still fresh to the honda game thanks for the input guys! anyone else?

B_Swapped93

upgraded clutch and engine mounts for sure and possibly DSS drive shafts but not "needed" and I'd strongly recommend Hondata over an RTP while not boosted I have one for my track car and love it. other then that I think you're good ! looking to see more got any more pics ??

minimarine09

oops forgot to mention i have an act stg 2 clutch, i have to check the motor mounts, never paid attention to them lol and thank you! yea i will get some more pics up when i get a chance, i want to clean the engine bay up a bit, the weather is kinda crappy, i would like to clean up and tuck it better, im trying to reasearch what would make the bay cleaner looking etc... changing platforms is always exciting, but its a pain at the same timme because you have to learn stuff all over again lol

turbohf

looked over your list vs the list i made for my buddy that we just turboed his EM1. looks good. might wanna throw a MAP sensor at it if your planning over 10psi, and i would just plan on more than 10, cuz you know its fun. personally i like lower bar maps, not 4bars, as you loose map resolution.

Schister66

This thread would be much better off in the Forced Induction forum...PM me if you want it moved.

EDIT: Moved to FI

minimarine09

oops sorry about that pming you now, thanks for the pm turbohf!

minimarine09

so i did some work on the teg today, it was raining like crazy and had a huge pool of water in the spare section of the back, ended up re sealing the tail lights, i also changed the rear struts, front brakes, rotors, caliper bracket, plus changed all of the fluids. found out that i was lied to when i bought the car about the lowering springs, i was told they were eibach, but they are definitely cut oem ones... pretty upset about it. any ways here are some more pics of how she stands now, as stated before, engine bay needs cleaned up as well as interior-

needs cleaned up, dynamat is a PIAN to get off-


everything stripped but i need my music lol-


work in progress...

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

What they mean by the 50/57/60 trim is the T3/T04E 54mm - 56mm inducer compressor wheels that use the same 75mm exducer with a 65mm turbine wheel. Most in the Honda "basic build" world use these Trim sizes as a determination of turbocharger size to use. Unlike in Evo/DSM world where a smaller turbo at mid level boost pressures are used in the stock form, the Honda cylinder head is MUCH more efficient where they can use a variety of turbochargers from many different turbo companies to fit their needs. (No FP bandwagons here, my friend )

The question is .. what is the goal, EVENTUALLY?. 300-350whp is pretty standard for a GT3251B Journal bearing , GT(X)3071R, or 50 "trim" (about 49-56lbs/min), but it depends upon budget , ultimate goal etc. Unlike the EVO/DSM world, since we use a lot of universal housings, the sky's the limit.

d16z6Tcrx

wiesco pistons (11.5:1)
shot peened ls rods resized with arp rod bolts


needs to be addressed asap....................

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

nothing wrong with an 11.5:1 turbo build, that's considered mild these days... however he is right about the rods, given the other aspects of your setup the stock rods are the biggest weak link you have and will limit your power levels.

your have a very clean chassis to start with (which always makes a difference, normally people with clean chassis put more care and attention to detail in builbds such as quality parts, proper assembly, and tuning... so you're off to a good start)

I feel you on the dynamat, we put some in our track car to keep drone down and insulate places... it's about as sticky as superglue. there are two methods to remove it.

the cleanest, easiest, and quickest (but also costs more due to dry ice) is to buy some dry ice (public or ingles) break it up into smaller pieces and spread it over the dynamat, it will freeze it, turning the asphalt brittle. one good wack with a rubber mallet or deadblow hammer shatters it like glass and it comes right off

the other method is a heat gun and a scraper.

this is long, hard, hot and messy (yea yea lol) it turns the asphalt backing into goo, sticks everywhere, normally it doesn't get all of it off so you have to dry ice behind it anyways. not to mention scraping it off painted surfaces normally scratches them to hell and back

when you say big ports, how big? can you post a pic?

big ports aren't always better, there's a fine line between bigger and too big. big ports are lazy ports, they lose flow due to the air losing velocity in the ports... these two factors mean the over ported head will actually have a negative impact on performance.

dcmatt

iTrader: (7)

Dont go cheap on the rods if your gonna do pistons. If it were me personally id get a set of h beam rods and go cheap on the pistons. Even a set of used eagles would work on budget. You can get nippon cast pistons machined for floating pins on ebay for aroumd $200. 82mm would put you at just under 1.9 but no reason to over bore at all unless necessary. The gains will be minimal.

minimarine09

lol! you read me like a book- i had an fp black on my evo, great turbo spooled fast for the flow rate, my power goal for my DAILY DRIVER is around 300-350 then i think ill be happy with that. ill buy another car or block if i want to put some real power down. ill do some reading on those turbos you recommended


do you guys think the rods will put my block at risk even with arp hardware at my power goal? (300-350) i mean ive heard of people going 300+ with a stock block and boost, and even if they fail, its the rod bolts that stretch and spin bearings right? or am i mistaken?

when i purchased the car the previous owner mentioned that the intake manifold runners were ported out to one big runner each, as in deleting the secondary runners and making it one big runner and matching the head to it, and its also ported to fit a 70mm tb (currently have oem tb on it) but the entire head itself isnt ported.

i couldnt tell you what the diameter of the runners are, i havent dug into my engine quite yet except for servicing ect...

and thank you for the compliment about the clean chassis. i dont plan on going cheap on anything, like stated before, im a fan of doing things right the 1st time, im just under the phase of undoing previous wrongs lol

thanks for the feedback guys! keep it coming

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

I don't think the issue was 11.5:1, I think the issue there is a floating pin piston on a pressed pin rod. I don't think you can do that without some custom machine work.