92LSVTEC

so, after crunching the #'s im not going to be able to afford to have my head ported and polished until next year. i will have upgraded valve train, but stock porting etc. my setup

b16a1 head ontop of
ERL Sleeved Block - MIDs w/girdle
1/2" head studs
84mm 9:1 JE w/ manley rods
Full Race topmount t4/t67 HO BB
tial 44
s300
ATI Balancer
3 into 4" downpipe

what kind of WHP is attainable out of this stock head? thanks!

PHDZINE

We've made 700+ WHP but it just takes more boost to do it. The more efficient the head is the more power you can make with lower boost and timing.

92LSVTEC

what kinda boost levels? im planning on somewhere high 20's maybe 30 max

Boostfed

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92LSVTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so, after crunching the #'s im not going to be able to afford to have my head ported and polished until next year. i will have upgraded valve train, but stock porting etc. my setup

b16a1 head ontop of
ERL Sleeved Block - MIDs w/girdle
1/2" head studs
84mm 9:1 JE w/ manley rods
Full Race topmount t4/t67 HO BB
tial 44
s300
ATI Balancer
3 into 4" downpipe

what kind of WHP is attainable out of this stock head? thanks!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Cody, I had made 616whp with a stock B16A head with just Skunk2 springs and retainers.

When I put an RLZ head on it made 676whp high boost 28psi with a turbo that had the worst shaft play ever lol, we also made 540whp on low boost compared to the stock head made 450whp

So 60whp and 90whp from a ported head is awesome BUT the Stock head can and will make enough power for 90% of the people out there imo

PHDZINE

Here's a dynograph of my Civic with a stock B16a head @ 46 PSI

93supercoupe

730 at 46Lbs, seems like alot, alot of boost that is.

92LSVTEC

let me guess, 42R?

DaveF

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PHDZINE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here's a dynograph of my Civic with a stock B16a head @ 46 PSI
</TD></TR></TABLE>

what cams ?

PHDZINE

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92LSVTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">let me guess, 42R?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hell no...I'm not jumping on that 42R bandwagon...I know it's a good turbo but I want to go fast with a different set-up...not like the Carbon copies that everybody is running....
Let me re-phrase that before everybody with a 42R jumps down my throat...The 42R is a proven turbo but we wanted to go fast with a different turbo.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dturbocivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

what cams ? </TD></TR></TABLE>
ITR's

Here's a graph after we ported the head.


I'm not sure how much wheel spin there is on the dyno...



Modified by PHDZINE at 12:33 PM 4/4/2007

PHDZINE

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93supercoupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">730 at 46Lbs, seems like alot, alot of boost that is.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is on a stock B16A head. How much boost do you think the high horsepower Honda's out there are running? Sure isn't under 30 PSI...

92LSVTEC

did i mention this car will see some street use?

care to spread insight on your "non-wagon" turbo?

Turbocivic94

I made 705whp on stock gsr head, ctr cams with GT4067 @ 29 psi leaning out.

PHDZINE

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92LSVTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did i mention this car will see some street use?

care to spread insight on your "non-wagon" turbo? </TD></TR></TABLE>

A stock b16 is more than enough...like I said before...Less efficient head=More boost and more timing to make the power you want.

92LSVTEC

reliability is also what im looking for... i know big power and reliability are two much different boats, but leaning it out, and lots of timing arent things id really like to push

PHDZINE

There is nothing wrong with adding timing...it's bad when there is to much timing. You can make alot of horsepower with pump gas and still be reliable...it's all in the tune.

You should never lean a car out just to squeeze a few more horses out of an engine...

It's also going to come down to what turbo you use....
You never mentioned your goals on horsepower...

zexxbo

well this is just me, but if youre changing out the valves- you might as well just get the p&p because youre going to have to pay for the valve job anyways. if youre only changing springs and retainers then, then just go ahead and leave it stock port and then pick up some itr or turbo cams.
my head is in my sig if you want to check it out. i got my b16a head stage 3'd and then portmatched the edlebrock intake mani and then opened the tb port to 70mm.
and 46psi is a damn lot of psi, i dont care who you are. but im wondering what kind of turbo youre running because my friend made around the same power with a 40r but @ 35lbs..

V-SPEC 1

more info please...

Snafubmx234

Haha Ziembo, there's a bit more involved when going from a valve job to actual headwork. Did you get flowbench numbers from your head?

Keep the head as it is. Upgrade cams/springs/retainers if you're going to be cranking the boost controller.

92LSVTEC

well, id like to be in the 600 whp range. but i can have the valve job done for a minimal cost but i want to send the head out at some point to more of a honda specialist, and have it done by someone who does them a lot, and with good results. the problem is, the season is almost here, and my funds are a little low. i have almost all the parts i need. so im thinking run a stock flowing head for the year, tear it down next winter (wisconsin is good for that) check the motor over, and have the head done, and bolt on another 50-75 hp.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by V-SPEC 1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">more info please...</TD></TR></TABLE>
who was that directed at?

turbobubble630

that y u running 46 psi and only make 790whp with a 42r you will be in the high 800 whp

92LSVTEC

lets not talk about his setup... which is cool....

how much power would this setup yield thru the stock head?

PHDZINE

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbobubble630 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that y u running 46 psi and only make 790whp with a 42r you will be in the high 800 whp</TD></TR></TABLE>

That was on a T72 with a P trim (2.52" exducer) .58 A/R...do you know how small a P trim is . A 42R is something like 2.96 on the exducer and 3.22 on the inducer...these guys with 42R are running 1.01 and bigger A/R housings.

Things have been changed since then...we run lower boost and make more power. Will not disclose specs though...

Also have you ever dynoed a car with that much power....how much power do you think you loose to wheels spin?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zeimbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well this is just me, but if youre changing out the valves- you might as well just get the p&p because youre going to have to pay for the valve job anyways. if youre only changing springs and retainers then, then just go ahead and leave it stock port and then pick up some itr or turbo cams.
my head is in my sig if you want to check it out. i got my b16a head stage 3'd and then portmatched the edlebrock intake mani and then opened the tb port to 70mm.
and 46psi is a damn lot of psi, i dont care who you are. but im wondering what kind of turbo youre running because my friend made around the same power with a 40r but @ 35lbs..</TD></TR></TABLE>

...A 40R doesn't move enough air to make the same power I do at 35+ psi

Well anyways back to the subject...you can make 600 whp with a stock head,it just take more boost and the right turbo.

zexxbo

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Snafubmx234 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Haha Ziembo, there's a bit more involved when going from a valve job to actual headwork. Did you get flowbench numbers from your head?

Keep the head as it is. Upgrade cams/springs/retainers if you're going to be cranking the boost controller. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i know that- but i mean the valves, etc have to be removed to get the valve job done so you might as well get in there while everything is out and open up the ports. he did do the flowbench but i dont have the numbers on me, ill see if i can get him to dig them up or re-bench it.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92LSVTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but i can have the valve job done for a minimal cost </TD></TR></TABLE>

whats minimal? my valve job was going to cost between $150-$250 i believe, so i just opted to get the stage 3 port and polish and port matching, etc for an additional $350-$450..

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PHDZINE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...A 40R doesn't move enough air to make the same power I do at 35+ psi</TD></TR></TABLE>

92LSVTEC

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zeimbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats minimal?</TD></TR></TABLE>

local machine shop owes me a favor. they dont do port/polishing and i want to spend the money on a good reputable shop to have that work done on. i havent gone cheap anywhere else, so im not about to start to. and i think it would be cool to end the year with XXX whp, and add 75 to it, with just doing the head work but paying for a retune, will not be cool

b18sihatch

or you can go with a dart head