Major V-tec crossover problem?
Alright I don't know if anyone remembers my old post about my car cutting out when it hits vtec, but I really need some help on this problem and I don't know who to turn to. I'll do my best to explain everyhtign that is happenening and everyhtign I ahve done to try and remedy this problem.
First the problem is whenever the car crosses over to vtec it feels like it is hitting a rev limiter...completely falls on its face like the car shut off. I am running Hondata s200 the map I have found out is not the problem I have changed it hundreds of times. I have changed ECU's. I also pulled out hondata and put in a stock ECU without the turbo and the same thing happens.
Ignition wise I am running a MSD 6al with cap and coil. I have removed this system and replaced it with another one just to be sure. I have tried two diffrent distributors that I know work properly. I have changed my vtec selanoid checked contenuity of the wireing and even cut the wire for the selanoid from the ECU and ran a direct wire to it to make sure there are no shorts or splits in the wire. I have checked all the wireing going to the ECU to check for shorts and I came up with nothing. Also wherever I set vtec at no matter what rpm it does this with hondata, with teh stock ECU and witha V-AFC too.
PLEASE someone think about this problem and throw out any ideas I am completely out of things to try. Thanks for looking.
The setup
B18B RS sleeved
B16 head
10:1 compression
hondata s200
MSD 6al
1000cc injectors
walbro 255 intank
First the problem is whenever the car crosses over to vtec it feels like it is hitting a rev limiter...completely falls on its face like the car shut off. I am running Hondata s200 the map I have found out is not the problem I have changed it hundreds of times. I have changed ECU's. I also pulled out hondata and put in a stock ECU without the turbo and the same thing happens.
Ignition wise I am running a MSD 6al with cap and coil. I have removed this system and replaced it with another one just to be sure. I have tried two diffrent distributors that I know work properly. I have changed my vtec selanoid checked contenuity of the wireing and even cut the wire for the selanoid from the ECU and ran a direct wire to it to make sure there are no shorts or splits in the wire. I have checked all the wireing going to the ECU to check for shorts and I came up with nothing. Also wherever I set vtec at no matter what rpm it does this with hondata, with teh stock ECU and witha V-AFC too.
PLEASE someone think about this problem and throw out any ideas I am completely out of things to try. Thanks for looking.
The setup
B18B RS sleeved
B16 head
10:1 compression
hondata s200
MSD 6al
1000cc injectors
walbro 255 intank
Stock ignition was put back in, and two diffrent heads were put on...one stock and a freshly redone head with new valvetrain. Also the stock distributor was put back on. thanks for the ideas though.
I eliminated all of the vtec wireing from the main harness...now I have a separet harness for vtec. Are there any other wireing I should have eliminated bessides the oil pressure sender and the vtec selanoid?
i had problems with trying to use msd stuff.. stock is good i guess.. if you did all that then you have a comp problem somewhere ; like mabye the rev limiter is set to kick in when its time for vtec.. try a new harness $$$, what check codes are you getting if any?... are you getting oil pressure in the vtec silonoid?
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I am getting no CEL's and there is now way I can have a rev limit set for that I even put the stock ECU and went back to NA to check. the compression is perfect and the leakdown was perfect. this is a brand new setup and I have had this problem from day one, but when I pulled my old b series out of the car I used the same harness and it ran perfect.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Trailz-EX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check the tach signal wire and crank sensor just for good measure</TD></TR></TABLE>
Where is the crank sensor...in the dizzy( what one if it is)
it does have a good tach signal.
Where is the crank sensor...in the dizzy( what one if it is)
it does have a good tach signal.
i dont wanna sound like a jerk but its by the crank, where the timing belt is, you have to pull all the belts and crank pulley off to get to it, if it is damaged or the wires are damaged it might screw your timing up, causing it to go full advance or retard or neither
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Trailz-EX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont wanna sound like a jerk but its by the crank, where the timing belt is, you have to pull all the belts and crank pulley off to get to it, if it is damaged or the wires are damaged it might screw your timing up, causing it to go full advance or retard or neither</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't have any sensor down there...I built the block, its a B18B1 from a 95 LS.
I don't have any sensor down there...I built the block, its a B18B1 from a 95 LS.
tps voltage is off?
cranks sensor..i belive is the orange/blue, and the white/blue wires coming out of the distributer.
maybe your timing belt is a tooth off?
cranks sensor..i belive is the orange/blue, and the white/blue wires coming out of the distributer.
maybe your timing belt is a tooth off?
mabe its not likign seeing boost, try running it wid ur new big injectors in but wid like a check valve on the map sensor. that will tell u if the problem is when it sees boost.....
Dturbocivic, when I had the V-AFC on the TPS voltage was normal. I did put on an aftermarket throttle body, and have since changed back to the stock one just to eliminate the problem. I will double check my crank position sensor, but I feel that has nothing to do with it. I couble checked the timing and it is dead on.
trentepic, I had the car back to NA with stock ECU and no boost and it still reacts the same way.
sewell94, I double checked the grouds, but I will add another 2 jus tto make sure. My oil pressure gague is right at the where the head is fed with oil and is reading perfect.
Please keep the ideas coming I wanna get this car back on the track!
trentepic, I had the car back to NA with stock ECU and no boost and it still reacts the same way.
sewell94, I double checked the grouds, but I will add another 2 jus tto make sure. My oil pressure gague is right at the where the head is fed with oil and is reading perfect.
Please keep the ideas coming I wanna get this car back on the track!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dturbocivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">does the car run ok "down low" as in before vtec? does the car idle ok? any noticable problems while at "part throttle" ? </TD></TR></TABLE>
The car runs flawlessly down low and at idel, and if I shut off v-tec in hondata it runs fine all the way through the rpm's. Also when I had the Vafc in and I had the vtec set way up high the car would run great as long as I never got up to vtec.
The car runs flawlessly down low and at idel, and if I shut off v-tec in hondata it runs fine all the way through the rpm's. Also when I had the Vafc in and I had the vtec set way up high the car would run great as long as I never got up to vtec.
Make sure you have enough oil in the motor. VTEC is 100% reliant on oil pressure so if there is not enough oil the solenoid will open and no oil will push the pins in. It will feel just like you described harsh and jerkey then fall on its face. If you have enough oil take off the solenoid and check the screen to see if anything is stuck in it that will slow oil from passing through.
If you still have problems there is obviously something wrong between the ECU and solenoid. No one can tell without really looking at your setup.
I pulled the oil line that feeds the head for vtec and cranked the engine, oil came out extremely quick and did not look interupted I also have good oil level. Also I removed the vtec selenoid an there was nothing in the screen.
I have bypassed the harness with the vtec selenoidand ran my own wires...is there any other wireing I should bypass?
I have bypassed the harness with the vtec selenoidand ran my own wires...is there any other wireing I should bypass?
maybe u got a bad oil pump or something? could be the right amount of oil in your motor, but a bad oil pump, maybe not enough pressure or something? just a thought
daniel
daniel


