LSVTEC no drill Dowel pics (can be used on vtec heads/blocks also)
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LSVTEC no drill Dowel pics (can be used on vtec heads/blocks also)
here are the pics. You can run 4 of these on an LS block with a Vtec head and you can be SURE the head will be *perfectly* lined up witht he combustion chambers.
... you get the idea.
... you get the idea.
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Re: LSVTEC no drill Dowel pics (FFgeoff)
Nice.
So the ends that go into the head are machined to fit the pre-existing holes so you don't have to elarge them? That's pretty clever.
So the ends that go into the head are machined to fit the pre-existing holes so you don't have to elarge them? That's pretty clever.
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Re: LSVTEC no drill Dowel pics (paul_vang)
yeah those were the pics i took of the prototypes, the actual parts are very hollow
ill get some more pics when i get back from sema on tuesday, then i go back again on thurs. i was asked by some people to post pics becuase they didnt follow the concept exactly, but you get the idea
ill get some more pics when i get back from sema on tuesday, then i go back again on thurs. i was asked by some people to post pics becuase they didnt follow the concept exactly, but you get the idea
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Re: LSVTEC no drill Dowel pics (paul_vang)
i think its late and im slow, so you sell 4 things that will make a vtec head fit perfectly onto the ls block? are there any downsides to doing it this way then the other conventional way?
im thinking about oidng a ls vtec, and know i have to enlarge my dowel pins or something... im confused...
im thinking about oidng a ls vtec, and know i have to enlarge my dowel pins or something... im confused...
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Re: LSVTEC no drill Dowel pics (AzN_Flava)
i think its late and im slow, so you sell 4 things that will make a vtec head fit perfectly onto the ls block? are there any downsides to doing it this way then the other conventional way?
im thinking about oidng a ls vtec, and know i have to enlarge my dowel pins or something... im confused...
im thinking about oidng a ls vtec, and know i have to enlarge my dowel pins or something... im confused...
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Re: LSVTEC no drill Dowel pics (FFgeoff)
man... thats all i gotta say.. i wish you did this like sept so i didnt have to bring mine to the machine shop.. you and your ideas hahah send me one but mine are already drilled and my head is torqued down alreayd but still on the stupid stand!!
THANKS FOR THE SHIPMENT GEOFF
[Modified by Giovannie, 8:20 PM 11/5/2002]
[Modified by Giovannie, 8:37 PM 11/5/2002]
THANKS FOR THE SHIPMENT GEOFF
[Modified by Giovannie, 8:20 PM 11/5/2002]
[Modified by Giovannie, 8:37 PM 11/5/2002]
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Re: LSVTEC no drill Dowel pics (AzN_Flava)
hey can i have one set too?! that way i dont have to do any machining either... so this makes it plug and play?
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Re: LSVTEC no drill Dowel pics (AzN_Flava)
Basically just that.
These dowels make it so that anyone can do an LSVTEC that doesnt have a drill press.
In order to properly do the LS/VTEC conversion you are supposed to use a 14mm drill bit, on a drill press, and drill perfectly straight. Most people cant find a 14mm bit so they use a 9/16" drill bit which not only is expensive (usually around 16-20$) but is too big at 14.2 mm. Now that it is 14.2 mm, once the head is set on the block to torque it, there is a ton of play in it.
The dowels we are making allow you to simply put the head on the block, and keep it perfectly straight.
You will still need to tap a 1/8" NPT plug into the vtec port on the block, but that is easy to do with just a 1/8" NPT tap and a 10mm 12point socket/wrench. You wont need a drill press or a huge, hard to find drill bit.
thats the overall idea.
btw, looks good gio
These dowels make it so that anyone can do an LSVTEC that doesnt have a drill press.
In order to properly do the LS/VTEC conversion you are supposed to use a 14mm drill bit, on a drill press, and drill perfectly straight. Most people cant find a 14mm bit so they use a 9/16" drill bit which not only is expensive (usually around 16-20$) but is too big at 14.2 mm. Now that it is 14.2 mm, once the head is set on the block to torque it, there is a ton of play in it.
The dowels we are making allow you to simply put the head on the block, and keep it perfectly straight.
You will still need to tap a 1/8" NPT plug into the vtec port on the block, but that is easy to do with just a 1/8" NPT tap and a 10mm 12point socket/wrench. You wont need a drill press or a huge, hard to find drill bit.
thats the overall idea.
btw, looks good gio
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Re: LSVTEC no drill Dowel pics (sshaikh01)
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Re: LSVTEC no drill Dowel pics (FFgeoff)
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Re: LSVTEC no drill Dowel pics (Giovannie)
once you torque it down, just leave it there. dont keep taking your motor apart!! just make sure its as centered as can be before torquing it, thats all
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Re: LSVTEC no drill Dowel pics (LsTurbo91)
Is that manifold spray painted? if so what kind of paint/color?
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Re: LSVTEC no drill Dowel pics (hybridvteceg)
These seem to be a great idea for those who don't have access to a machine shop.
The best way to do this you use regular Honda head bushings is to use a reamer. Not a drill bit. Drill bits drill irregular shaped holes, even on precision milling machines. A reamer will ream a perfectly round hole, as long as it is used on a quality machine. You can get a 14mm reamer for about $20, but it's almost always a special order item. The reamer will also have to be stoned down slightly to match the bushings, which seem to run in the 13.97mm-13.99mm range.
Also, to center your reamer on top of the existing holes in the head, you need a dial indicator. If one is not used, the reamed holes will not be in proper alignment with everything else (i.e. combustion chambers) and things will be off center.
I cringe when people just use drill presses and eyeballs to enlarge the holes. If they had any idea of the inaccuracy of their work.....
I think these stepped bushings are an excellent alternative.
The best way to do this you use regular Honda head bushings is to use a reamer. Not a drill bit. Drill bits drill irregular shaped holes, even on precision milling machines. A reamer will ream a perfectly round hole, as long as it is used on a quality machine. You can get a 14mm reamer for about $20, but it's almost always a special order item. The reamer will also have to be stoned down slightly to match the bushings, which seem to run in the 13.97mm-13.99mm range.
Also, to center your reamer on top of the existing holes in the head, you need a dial indicator. If one is not used, the reamed holes will not be in proper alignment with everything else (i.e. combustion chambers) and things will be off center.
I cringe when people just use drill presses and eyeballs to enlarge the holes. If they had any idea of the inaccuracy of their work.....
I think these stepped bushings are an excellent alternative.
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Re: LSVTEC no drill Dowel pics (LsTurbo91)
so that block is coated too?
[Modified by Giovannie, 8:25 PM 11/6/2002]