Ok, I know this topic has been covered before, so no need to tell me to search. I know that it is a toss up and some tell you to rev to 9000, while others tell you to keep it at 7000. My question is: for those people revving to 8000+ is your crank balanced? I am revving to 7500 now and have had no problems at all for the last 6 months. I am itching to go to 8000, but don't know if it is a "smart"/reliable idea to do so with just a factory crank. I know its able to be done, but what are your opinions and do you think I would ok to rev to 8000 without having it balanced and such? Any (positive) input would be much appreciated

 

i go to 8500 with a balanced crank

 

I think 1000 -1200 rpm over stock is semi resonable but I wouldn't go much more and do <U>not</U> do it with cold oil , but someone else may say 7500 is your limit

 

i have been reving mine to 8 grand for over a year. It is not balanced.

 

the crank is no less reliable then a gsr crank, just has a different stroke. its the rods you gotta worry about unless they arent stock.

 

Stock LS block, ARP rod bolts, stock GSR head, T3/TO4E 50-trim, uberdata. Shifted that hojo at 8500 every day

 

If the motor is built then rev the **** out of it. I know plenty of built ls vtecs that shift out at 9k rpm with no problems.

 

As for the motor thats in question: GSR head with skunk 2 valves, spring, skunk2 turbo cams, stock sleeves, wiseco 81.5mm 8.8:1 pistons, eagle rods, steel headgasket. Basically everything but the block girdle and sleeves.

 

That will turn 9K without a problem, assuming the motor is balanced, which I hope it is.

 

haha no, my crank is just the factory crank...nothing has been done with it yet.....that is why I was wondering if it would be ok for 8000. Everything else has been done i.e. head, pistons, (stock sleeves though and no block girdle), rods, blah blah blah.

Once I get it balanced and a girdle, it'll be going to 9000...but in the meantime I was wondering if 8k would be ok with a factory crank, pistons rods, stock sleeves, and no girdle.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dunc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">haha no, my crank is just the factory crank...nothing has been done with it yet.....that is why I was wondering if it would be ok for 8000. <U>Everything else has been done i.e.</U> head,pistons, (stock sleeves though and no block girdle), <U>rods</U>, blah blah blah.

Once I get it balanced and a girdle, it'll be going to 9000...<U>but in the meantime I was wondering if 8k would be ok with a factory crank, pistons rods</U>, stock sleeves, and no girdle.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you have the eagle rods already in there (hopefully the newer ones with the bigger rod bolts) I would think you would be good to 8k. I mean with an all stock bottom end the rods are the weak link when it comes to reving it to 8k ...... so if they're upgraded I'd say rev it.

 

I guess I am going to start revving. Perhaps I will test it out, and rev to like 7800 or something. I'll probably have to turn the boost down though (I wanna keep it under 400whp on my stock sleeves). Seeing as my power is going straight up at 7500 right now which is why I am itching to rev haha. (click the cardomain link in the signature if you want for the graphs)

Thanks for all your input on this "beatin' to death" issue. I really do appreciate all of the input!

 

My MSD 6AL rev limit has been set at 8,000 since my LS/VTEC has been together for over a year now and no problems at all. All stock internals with an InlinePro headgasket and ARP headstuds. Ath the track I'm bouncing off 8k in the burnout box, launch the 2 step at 6,500 - 6,800 and powershift to 8,000 all day long. Never took it over 8 though...

 

yea 8000 is the absolute max I will be taking it to right now. I will probably tune it and then shift during pety* street racing at like 7500.....or if I really need it for a race, then I'll go to 8k. What all did you do with your car to run that 11.52 @121mph? I am kind nervous that I am going to run like some shitty 14 second past, which will really **** me off after building up all this **** haha.

 

its fine, just rev it i say. im gonna take my ls vtec to 8000 as soon as i break it in. eagle rods and je pistons with acl bearings, im not worried about it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dunc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What all did you do with your car to run that 11.52 @121mph? I am kind nervous that I am going to run like some shitty 14 second past, which will really **** me off after building up all this **** haha.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well to sum it up it's basically an all-stock LS/VTEC with an Inline-Pro headgasket, RC 440's, V-AFC, in-tank Walboro pump, Cartech FMU, and some slicks. The car weighs 2550 w/ me in it. As basic as it gets...

Believe me it took a long time to get into the 11's. And I did run 14's first time out It takes a while to get all the bugs worked out of a new setup.

In your case with pistons and rods, if I were you I wouldn't worry about a damn thing....good luck

Here's a vid of 11.54 @ 119 (right click save as):
http://img.s10forum.com/album626/afq.wmv

 

i've seen your car at etown many times before--when you told me bone stk ls/vtec
i was like--what a phucking d1ck, why is he lying
your car is very impressive

impressed me so much i started my ls/vtec turbo
at 6psi 13.30 at 105--still working out the bugs

I'm sure I'll see you at etown again this year

 

i wouldnt go over 8200 at all on any frankestein motor
no matter if its built
no need to put any stress that isnt needed

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SP00LIN &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the crank is no less reliable then a gsr crank, just has a different stroke. its the rods you gotta worry about unless they arent stock. </TD></TR></TABLE>


so a stock gsr crank and a stock ls crank should have the same 'rev limit'?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adictionbass &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


so a stock gsr crank and a stock ls crank should have the same 'rev limit'?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes the ls crank just has a slightly bigger stroke. its the rods that have problems cause they are so small on an ls girth wise. and the rod to stroke puts more stress on them at that high of rpm.

 

so whats the stock crank in a built gsr good to? 9k?? (better r/s ratio)?

 

Chrome Pipes, what kind of horsepower and torque numbers are you running? I have an ls/vtec turbo with (soon to be) and 81.5mm bore and I too only have stock rods and no balancing or sleeves or anything. The only thing that will be different about anything below the HG will be the 81.5mm pistons. Last year I made 234whp and 190lbs of torque. I was interested in knowing what kind of mods you have and what numbers your producing. BTW im very impressed with those 1/4mile times. cool burnout in the vid too

 

I am currently assembling my ls/vtec with arp head studs,eagle rods, cp pistons, ballanced rotating assy including the flywheel. I'm at 81.5 mm running oem crank bearings and clevite 77 rod bearings. I wen't cheap on my set up and got the ge block guard (instead of sleeving) it was installed before the boring of the engine and from what i've researched and found by talking to various people including my tunner the sleeves are going to be the weakpoint in my set up. The key to keeping your engine together at high rpms is going to lie in the tunning, if you have any detonation, your thin over bored stock sleeves are more likely to give before any of the pricey forged parts will. IMO, i'm not reving over 7,800.

 

I run 8900 with mine. I'm not really worried about it, I've never seen any problems on the 10 other ls/vtec motors in the area running that rpm.

 

on a stock ls crank?