LS VTEC, quick hone and rering?
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LS VTEC, quick hone and rering?
I bought a complete LS VTEC for dirt cheap recently.
I tore apart the engine and found the head to be in mint condition, the b18a block otherwise. The cylinder walls were quite glazed and the plugs were soaked in oil. When I took the motor apart I was suprised to find replacment rings, as i thought the motor woudl have a set of originals.
So ive concluded
1) The motor has had its rings replaced
2) OIl was present in the CC, not sure whether it was from assembley or the rings not seating
3) The cylinder walls were shiny, not scartched, perhaps whoever rebuilt did not hone the cylinder walls?
So I gave the walls a quick hone, and am now debating on whether I shoudl purchase a new set of rings and throw the motor back together. I woudl really liek it not to burn oil.
Shoudl I
A) Throw the motor back together with new rings and forget about it
B) Measure the bore for roundness then determine whether the block is useful
C) Ditch the engine and look for a low milage LS block
Any info woudl be appreciated
BTW, this will be a 300whp boosted application, for about 1-2 years.
I tore apart the engine and found the head to be in mint condition, the b18a block otherwise. The cylinder walls were quite glazed and the plugs were soaked in oil. When I took the motor apart I was suprised to find replacment rings, as i thought the motor woudl have a set of originals.
So ive concluded
1) The motor has had its rings replaced
2) OIl was present in the CC, not sure whether it was from assembley or the rings not seating
3) The cylinder walls were shiny, not scartched, perhaps whoever rebuilt did not hone the cylinder walls?
So I gave the walls a quick hone, and am now debating on whether I shoudl purchase a new set of rings and throw the motor back together. I woudl really liek it not to burn oil.
Shoudl I
A) Throw the motor back together with new rings and forget about it
B) Measure the bore for roundness then determine whether the block is useful
C) Ditch the engine and look for a low milage LS block
Any info woudl be appreciated
BTW, this will be a 300whp boosted application, for about 1-2 years.
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Re: LS VTEC, quick hone and rering? (CRXdan)
Your going to need new rings regardless of the route you go, but I would just stick with the block/engine you have. Just make sure you have a good de-glazed/hone job, and a new set of rings, and your ready to reassemble the engine. I would recommend new bearings with the engine is apart and if you have the money then I would pick up aftermarket pistons/rods.........
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Re: (stealthmode62)
Aftrermarket pistons/rods are out of the question right now, I will be content with 300-350hp
My dad is a 10 year honda mechanic and says honda is very picky with tolerances in the block and its damn near impossible to rebuild with no oil consumption.
I think I am goigng to measure the bore, and if that checks out, purchase new rings, file them to spec, and slap this bitch back together.
My dad is a 10 year honda mechanic and says honda is very picky with tolerances in the block and its damn near impossible to rebuild with no oil consumption.
I think I am goigng to measure the bore, and if that checks out, purchase new rings, file them to spec, and slap this bitch back together.
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Re: (CRXdan)
I can't say I agree with your dad on that one. I have built quite a number of them that have no consumption issues at all.
I'd measure the bore's, verify your piston to wall clearances then go from there. If everything is a go, just get some new rings and gap them a tad bit over stock in order to allow for some expansion from the higher heat of a turbo setup. Make sure you put a good hone on the bores, and with the appropriate crosshatch.
You do that and you'll be fine. I've rebuilt alot of motors in-car even and have had alot of success still. That's the quick and dirty way, but pro drag does it so there's no reason you or I can't. Granted you may not get 10 year reliability out of the deal, but 3 years certainly.
If you take your time, check your tolerances, and do it right you'll be fine.
I'd measure the bore's, verify your piston to wall clearances then go from there. If everything is a go, just get some new rings and gap them a tad bit over stock in order to allow for some expansion from the higher heat of a turbo setup. Make sure you put a good hone on the bores, and with the appropriate crosshatch.
You do that and you'll be fine. I've rebuilt alot of motors in-car even and have had alot of success still. That's the quick and dirty way, but pro drag does it so there's no reason you or I can't. Granted you may not get 10 year reliability out of the deal, but 3 years certainly.
If you take your time, check your tolerances, and do it right you'll be fine.
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