I figured this would be the best place to post, correct me if I am wrong. Today we drove my buddies 97 Teg LS, its got a built motor on the bottom end, and is turboed. He runs only approx, 5psi daily. Today we brought it down to my dads shop just to look at it. my buddy said that there is a hole possibly where a bolt would go. So we put the bolt in, ran the car, it started idling hard and had a check engine light. So we turned the car off and removed it, and now the car still has the check engine light. Im not stupid and wouldnt just put a bolt in a random spot, it looked like it was missing exactly where a bolt would go, we are almost 95% sure. It smells like its running EXTREMELY rich, and smells horrible. The car is untuned, runs a b18b, using SAFC, we havent touched the SAFC b4 or after we put the bolt in and took it out. We run a thermal exhaust with 2.5" piping, no cat etc. We cant do a compression test, because we dont have a tester lol. It didnt run long with the bolt, nothing popped or sounded like it blew. One thing thats different, is the SAFC now reads 0.0% on the AFL or AFR w/e. What do we do?

 

Also theres no knocking.

 

help..

 

where did you put the bolt at???? you must have messed with something

 

no man, def did not, the bolt goes to where the downpipe connects to the turbine side of the turbo. It was missing a bolt, we just had a mechanic come down and look at it, he said that was missing a bolt, it was blowing out black smoke. We put the bolt back in it did jack ****. Check engine light is still on. We are thinking a sensor of some sort? Would a fuel problem cause a check engine light?

 

maybe ur afc reset its self? check all the settings and make sure its scaled properly for the injectors. u said there all at 0%. shouldn't it be at like -35 of some sort depending on what size injectors ur using.

 

sad to say they r stock injectors with aftermarket fuel rail and FPR, he bought the car like that.

 

bump

 

here is a great idea:

check what the check engine light is telling you. this might help us diagnose what has gone wrong.

 

i understand that but i dont have the too to get the code, well just have a mechanic do it

 

r u sure they are stock injectors? afc hack is usually run with bigger injectors and fuel is trim down with afc. adjust your afc to -30 all across and see what happens. o% on afc with bigger injectors will run rich

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DvD3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i understand that but i dont have the too to get the code, well just have a mechanic do it</TD></TR></TABLE>

take it to Autozone, they check it for free

 

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beav &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
thats what you get for raggin on my boys car which is all motor and stock and destroys your boosted teggy, and has also been on the road for 3 years now. you guys are lame

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=961161</TD></TR></TABLE>

holy **** your retarded. my boys turbo ls is ****** insane. it pushes over 300whp. your ******* stupid **** off you stupid noob. Why would I have a computer laying around to read OBD codes. Only mechanics have that. Jesus christ you ******* idiot you and your friend are scumbags. Learn your **** and learn to drive.

 

wow xeno i didnt kno that, ill take it to autozone and see what they say. Thanks for info!

 

You can check CELs without using the tool, scope this link. Its super easy, everyone does it

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1171263

 

jumper wire doesn't work on obd2 cars. you need and obd2 code reader for that, which cost around $100. like xenocron said, autozone will check for you

 

reporting u small beav, this is a technical problem, not a beef thread homo, **** off ur reported.

 

so much tension in this place...

any way, take it to autozone