b20vtechatch

how much hp do the stock main bolts hold up. can the handle 12 psi.
8.5:1 je pistons
eagle h-beams
polished crank
b18a1 honed
crower ls cams
skunk2 dual valve springs
valves
and t-retainers
t3/t4 turbo kit 12psi

should i port and polish? how much hp would this put out? can i boost more than 12psi on stock sleeves? should i just get arp bolts?

blackeg

are you talking crank mains or do u mean headbolts?

arp headbolts would be nice, especially since you have a good setup going.

you can port and polish, but if everything is already together, just get an aftermarket intake manifold to compliment the cams.

12psi is fine on stock sleeves. keep it below about 350whp on a good tune and you are good ( 15-20 psi depending on your turbo size)

my only other suggestion is turn up the boost

pushinlsteg

why so low compression pistons? You ain't gonna feel **** out of boost AKA kickin it around town.

Main bolts as in...holding the crank in, main bolts? I think those are fine, I never really read anybody swapping those out for something else. if they do have other ones just its a given. ARP.

b20vtechatch

yes main bolts for the crank. those should be fine. ok well thanks this is my buddies set-up. just trying to do some research. thanks.

_entropy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pushinlsteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why so low compression pistons? You ain't gonna feel **** out of boost AKA kickin it around town.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, it'll feel like a dog losing all of like 5 HP from that low compression.

StolenTeg

Your set-up sound pretty solid, 12 psi with a right tune is no sweat for that motor, maybe you should up the boost and think around 15-18 psi . well if you spend money building it then i guess you have to boost the hell out of it

Well i think if it a daily driven car, it would suck to have really low compression. It would be a slug when driving around town and out of boost, personally i think 9.5:1 or 10:1 is great for daily driving if you get the right tuner that know what he doing there shouldnt be any problem at all, im running 9.5:1 right now and if i would do it again maybe i would go with 10:1 or 9.5 again

_entropy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StolenTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your set-up sound pretty solid, 12 psi with a right tune is no sweat for that motor, maybe you should up the boost and think around 15-18 psi . well if you spend money building it then i guess you have to boost the hell out of it

Well i think if it a daily driven car, it would suck to have really low compression. It would be a slug when driving around town and out of boost, personally i think 9.5:1 or 10:1 is great for daily driving if you get the right tuner that know what he doing there shouldnt be any problem at all, im running 9.5:1 right now and if i would do it again maybe i would go with 10:1 or 9.5 again</TD></TR></TABLE>

I had 10:1. I didn't tear down the motor and rebuild it at 8.8:1 because I was bored and felt like it. No, it isn't a slug off boost. Did you ever see the comparison Boosted Hybrid posted?

http://www.evans-tuning.com/fo...=1612

After seeing that it totally changed my mind. 1-2 WHP off boost wasn't worth the trouble of being severly limited to how much boost I could run on pump gas, scared of driving the car on the street, and getting some knock even on higher octane unleaded on HPDE's. If you want a 10:1 race only setup, go for it. If you build a 10:1 street setup expecting it to make your B18C feel like a V8, prepare to be very disapointed.

b20vtechatch

yea i should really turn that boost up 15-18psi. i got the lower compression because it helps the t3/t4 spool up quiker. the 5 hp loss ill just have to manage without and get 5hp somewhere else.

b20vtechatch

about that port and polish and three angle valve job, it would be like $600-800 for the porting and anoher $300-400 for the valve job. should i just get it resurfaced, hottanked and put the valve train with the crower cams. And just through a JG Edelbrock intake manifold. my other option is http://www.exospeed.com i can get a head there ported with a valve job resurfaced and hot tanked with the valve-train installed. and i think their ls cams are an extra $200. is anyone fimiliar with exospeed are their rs springs any good and their cams? is thier machining any good.
Sorry for being a pain asking so many questions but i don't wanna waste my money on something that isn't good.

b20vtechatch

i forgot to ask but whats the core charge for heads at exospeed.

blackeg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b20vtechatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">about that port and polish and three angle valve job, it would be like $600-800 for the porting and anoher $300-400 for the valve job. should i just get it resurfaced, hottanked and put the valve train with the crower cams. And just through a JG Edelbrock intake manifold. my other option is http://www.exospeed.com i can get a head there ported with a valve job resurfaced and hot tanked with the valve-train installed. and i think their ls cams are an extra $200. is anyone fimiliar with exospeed are their rs springs any good and their cams? is thier machining any good.
Sorry for being a pain asking so many questions but i don't wanna waste my money on something that isn't good.</TD></TR></TABLE>

exospeed is good. 300+ for just a vavlejob is terrible- go somewhere else. i had a local machine shop do up a head for me last year. .020 mill, 3 angle, hot tank & bead blast and reassemble for 240 bucks.

i hate to say this, and i am a big fan of the ls, but for the money you are spending you can get a b16 head wiht some type r cams, which will make your more hp than the proposed ls head build you have going.

b20vtechatch

i dont want vtec. i have a head im just going to get a valvetrain kit valves and cams. i wont get it ported or get a valve job ill get everything installed ill put the cams on and through the head on my block.

_entropy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b20vtechatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont want vtec. i have a head im just going to get a valvetrain kit valves and cams. i wont get it ported or get a valve job ill get everything installed ill put the cams on and through the head on my block.</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol, why don't you want vtec?

blackeg

maybe its for the increased torque his motor will make without it.

if i was in the same situation, it would be a real tough call. id prolly do the ls up first.

StolenTeg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Napoleon Dynamite &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I had 10:1. I didn't tear down the motor and rebuild it at 8.8:1 because I was bored and felt like it. No, it isn't a slug off boost. Did you ever see the comparison Boosted Hybrid posted?

http://www.evans-tuning.com/fo...=1612

After seeing that it totally changed my mind. 1-2 WHP off boost wasn't worth the trouble of being severly limited to how much boost I could run on pump gas, scared of driving the car on the street, and getting some knock even on higher octane unleaded on HPDE's. If you want a 10:1 race only setup, go for it. If you build a 10:1 street setup expecting it to make your B18C feel like a V8, prepare to be very disapointed.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you look at the graph, the one with 10:1 compression is making more power over the whole rpm range. Yeah it doesnt seem to be much different in the lower rpm, but once the turbo start spooling the 10:1 compression difinitely is making more power.
You say that a 10:1 will limit the amount of boost, but it wont required the same amount of boost as the 9:1 need to make the same power. Like the dyno graph, the one with 9:1 would need to run around 11 psi to be the same as the 10:1 running on 9 psi.

_entropy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StolenTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If you look at the graph, the one with 10:1 compression is making more power over the whole rpm range. Yeah it doesnt seem to be much different in the lower rpm, but once the turbo start spooling the 10:1 compression difinitely is making more power.
You say that a 10:1 will limit the amount of boost, but it wont required the same amount of boost as the 9:1 need to make the same power. Like the dyno graph, the one with 9:1 would need to run around 11 psi to be the same as the 10:1 running on 9 psi.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you look at the graph you'll see the 10:1 is already running a slight amount more boost pressure (I think he chalked that up to the wastgate actuator getting hot) and sorry, but there's not a hope in hell that it's going to take 2 pounds of boost to make up 14 WHP.

And also, on my 8.8:1 motor on straight 94 octane pump gas I've had it to 21 psi with zero knock. Even if the difference between the two compression ratios was 2, or 3 pounds of boost good luck running 18-19 psi on a 10:1 motor. There's a reason Earl, Boosted Hybrid, PTE, and others all recommend 9:1 for a street motor.

blackeg

9:1 gets my vote. if i every go with a forged internal setup, it will be 9:1. until then ill stick with the 9.2:1 stock ls