Pfieff

Since I am going to be pulling the head this weekend and replacing the blown rings, I got thinking about dropping LS rods in because I thought I remember them being a direct drop in. I know that the block would have to be notched, but does anyone know if LS rods in a d16y7 are "plug and play".

GSRswapandslow.

the LS rods take a lot of macheiene work to "drop in"

you'd end up spending just as much money, it not a little more, than going with some nice eagles.

Pfieff

what kind of machine work?

turbo sol

LS rods do require machine work for a D16 engine.

1. yoiu must bush the wristpin to except the 19m mpin of a d16 piston

2. you must thin down the rods where it goes around the crank. (to let it fit between the weights of the crank.

3.once rebushed for a small wrist pin, yo uhave to use a floating wristpin design ie: aftermarket. the press fit of stock pistons wont fly.

if i had to do it again i would buy eagles. I didn;t have to notch my block but would have without second thoughts. I did save some money, not much thought. My rods now will hold the 250 *TOPS* if i can get the much HP, so i guess a penny saved is a penny earned you make the call.

now for the pic.

Joseph Davis

I have a suspicion that the 96-98 GX piston, PDN's, are a PM7 unit with a 21mm wristpin. No funky machining stock pistons for floating pins, or rebushing the small end. Just mill the LS big end atouch and go.

This doesn't help the turbo guys much, but it makes fitting a "stock" piston into a ZC with LS rod for high CR or mild boost use very easy. It also makes for a nice high CR high RPM D16 rod.

Keep in mind, I haven't ever touched a PDN piston. I do plan to, I touch every ZC locally.

kranked91dx

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J. Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a suspicion that the 96-98 GX piston, PDN's, are a PM7 unit with a 21mm wristpin. No funky machining stock pistons for floating pins, or rebushing the small end. Just mill the LS big end atouch and go.

This doesn't help the turbo guys much, but it makes fitting a "stock" piston into a ZC with LS rod for high CR or mild boost use very easy. It also makes for a nice high CR high RPM D16 rod.

Keep in mind, I haven't ever touched a PDN piston. I do plan to, I touch every ZC locally. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Very interesting setup, so 96-98 GX rod, are 137 mm long, with 21 mm wrist pin ??
I will do some search about this cause I want to use bigger OEM Honda rod into my setup, my choice was LS up to date, but you just seem to bring a new solution in this thing.

good info
Kranked

lazerus

too bad your factory rods dont look like This (cut/paste into new browswer window to view)

http://www.imagestation.com/pi...g.jpg


bolts are 10MM stock and torque to 25 ft/lbs (bigger than 3/8) (25/64th inch)


Modified by lazerus at 6:15 PM 3/11/2004

Eviloliv3

you know D16 rods are a drop in for the D16 engine...

TurboJesse

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eviloliv3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you know D16 rods are a drop in for the D16 engine...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the tech post suck my dick

Pfieff

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eviloliv3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you know D16 rods are a drop in for the D16 engine...</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's an educated response.

kranked91dx

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eviloliv3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you know D16 rods are a drop in for the D16 engine...</TD></TR></TABLE>

that answer demonstrate a very wide knowledge of Honda Internal component

thank's for your support *** hole.

Kranked

hackish

I'm trying to figure out how to do this LS rods thing... Shaving down the big ends is a walk in the park on a milling machine. 1/2mm on each side or something, I'll get the calipers out once I get a set of rods...

However the wristpin problem has me puzzled. Apparently crower makes some bushings for fitting these rods but I haven't been able to find them. Loads of people have put LS rods in their D16's so someone must know how it's done. If you go to a floating pin, how do you keep the pin in the piston? Which pin do people use?

-Michael

SYD

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hackish &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm trying to figure out how to do this LS rods thing... Shaving
However the wristpin problem has me puzzled. Apparently crower makes some bushings for fitting these rods but I haven't been able to find them. Loads of people have put LS rods in their D16's so someone must know how it's done. If you go to a floating pin, how do you keep the pin in the piston? Which pin do people use?
-Michael</TD></TR></TABLE>

... a notch or groove can be cut in the piston allowing a lock pin to be inserted...

turbo sol

i went with after market pistons.

GSRswapandslow.

then go with an aftermarket rod

turbo sol

the choice to use aftermarket pistons with my LS Rods, were:

1. the money; yes they are cheaper to do than eagles
2. I got a killer deal on the pistons themselves
3. I like the idea behind the floating pin more than the press fit.

my argument if you want it is.

money isnt growing on trees, different people have different goals, stock rods have been proven to make decent amounts of reliable power (esp the b series rods).

If i went with aftermarket rods, where do you draw the line, under that premise you shoudl also sleeve your block, and build your head, don't forget the dry sump oil system. it would never end.

Joseph Davis

Dry sumping your engine is the first modification anyone should make; even before you get a CAI.

SYD

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbo sol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If i went with aftermarket rods, where do you draw the line, under that premise you shoudl also sleeve your block, and build your head, don't forget the dry sump oil system. it would never end.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL...u serious?..dont u think your going a little overboard with the dry sump?..i hope that was sarcasm..


Modified by bruceleeroy at 11:39 AM 3/24/2004

Sinner

I got some a6 rods that, I hear are the strongest of the d series. PM if you interested.

Nick

turbo sol

yes i was be sarcastic to prove a point, you can go forever. my car isnt a race car its my daily driver. I dont have all the money in the world either.

like i said where do you draw the line.

hackish

I thought the A1 rods were stronger than the A6. I've got a D16A6.

Thing that I'm arguing is that the cost of the LS rods is within $100 of the cost for eagle. If I'm not mistaken the eagles can accept the press fit pins and can therefore accept the stock pistons. My aim is to make about 200hp and I've got proper engine management.

-Michael

turbo sol

check into the eagle wrist pin situation.

as far as the a1 vs the a6. I have heard all d series rods are pretty equal. some are slightly larger, but they are older rods and I have read that their metal compositon isn't as good as the newer rods that are slightly thinner. thus giving them apx. the same strength.

good luck

hackish

Someone on d-series suggested going with the LS rods and getting aftermarket pistons that already have a floating 21mm pin. That makes a whole whackload of sense. It means having the rods milled down a little. That's like 1 operation and isn't likely to cost all that much.

-Michael

turbo sol

if you can find the right piston then that would be a good option.

one of those options is the civic GX pistons. they have a 21mm pin and the right bore. the only problem is that they yeild high compression.

I am sure if you look around you can find soem other options for pistons

TravSi

Why not just get a set of eagle rods? those LS rods arent much better than a D16 rod, they still look like tooth picks and are still aheemm "cast" and will still break pretty easy under stress....you can get eagle rods that will hold a lot more power and be less of a pain in the *** to install, and they will hold more than just 50 more hp over stock d16 rods...I got a set for 305 bucks, cant get much better than that....I just dont get the whole LS rod in D16 thing...its cheap but seems like a headache and worthless....

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sinner &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I got some a6 rods that, I hear are the strongest of the d series. PM if you interested.</TD></TR></TABLE>

They are the same??? Same material, same thickness, still look like a tooth pick...and still will fail easily at 200+....you should only give them away, I threw mine away, I figured wtf would someone want with stock a6 rods, they are junk if you plan on making good power....