Ls or GSR tranny
Hello everyone. Ive got a decision to make but can't decide which way to go, so I brought it to this forum for some professional advice.
So the build I'll be doing...
B20z2 Block with Cncwerks.com Cylinder Support, Arp Rod Bolts, Arp Head Studs, Acl Bearings.
B16a2 Head with GSR Cams, Type R Intake Manifold.
Now the part i can't decided on..
I have a Ls transmission and a GSR (YS1) 4.4 Final Drive non-lsd. I planned on using the GSR trans and get Lsd and a LS 5th gear put in for interstate traveling.
But I also want to boost it about 10psi in the near future and my buddy said that if I boost, then I should go with the Ls trans and have a Lsd added to that.
So my question today is which transmission would be the best for my planned setup.
It would be a daily driver.
I have about 30-45min drive to work that's about 85% on the interstate..
Any and all help / advice will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
So the build I'll be doing...
B20z2 Block with Cncwerks.com Cylinder Support, Arp Rod Bolts, Arp Head Studs, Acl Bearings.
B16a2 Head with GSR Cams, Type R Intake Manifold.
Now the part i can't decided on..
I have a Ls transmission and a GSR (YS1) 4.4 Final Drive non-lsd. I planned on using the GSR trans and get Lsd and a LS 5th gear put in for interstate traveling.
But I also want to boost it about 10psi in the near future and my buddy said that if I boost, then I should go with the Ls trans and have a Lsd added to that.
So my question today is which transmission would be the best for my planned setup.
It would be a daily driver.
I have about 30-45min drive to work that's about 85% on the interstate..
Any and all help / advice will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Ah.. the "friend said LS is better for boost because of the "longer" gearing" logic. I remember that little myth so well for so many years now.
Just because you're in "boost longer" doesn't mean you're accelerating any faster.
Keep your GS-R.... ALL of your GS-R.
You can travel on the highway with a GS-R 5th without sitting in higher rpms all the time. If anything, it'll make you have to downshift too gears just to casually pass lanes on the highway.
Your use of fuel is going to be based upon your engine load and driving habits even more than your rpm in 5th gear. Tuned well, and you'll have good mileage just fine for your commute.
Just because you're in "boost longer" doesn't mean you're accelerating any faster.
Keep your GS-R.... ALL of your GS-R.
You can travel on the highway with a GS-R 5th without sitting in higher rpms all the time. If anything, it'll make you have to downshift too gears just to casually pass lanes on the highway.
Your use of fuel is going to be based upon your engine load and driving habits even more than your rpm in 5th gear. Tuned well, and you'll have good mileage just fine for your commute.
Definately LSD y1/GSR. LS gearing is horrible, even with boost. Your highway mileage is more a result of load and throttle position than rpm, so just because your at a somewhat high rpm doesn't mean your mileage will suffer. I run an LSD S4C and cruise about 4k RPM at 75ish on the highway and still return nearly 30mpg with a 220whp B20V powered EM1
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Other than the car being a daily will you use it for any other purpose? things like mountain runs, road course/auto-x events, drag racing, top speed events, and such? Or do you do a majority of highway driving? That will help us better in deciding if the stock ratios are adequate or if you need an aftermarket solution.
Like others have said it's more or less tuning that will help with fuel economy but turning lower rpm at cruising speeds doesn't hurt. In terms of overall ratios the B16 is the shortest, GSR is in the middle, and LS the tallest. A lot of people are simply putting an LS 5th in so they can keep shorter ratios in the lower gears but have a good "highway" gear.
Some people even build a bastard transmission using gears from all 3. I've seen a lot do a gsr 1st, B16 2nd and 3rd, gsr 4th, and LS 5th with whatever final drive. Although these people are doing a lot of circuit events, autocross, and mountain runs.
On top of the individual gears you can play with final drive ratio and tire height to tweak your setup. Obviously tire size is a lot easier to change lol. Also if you find the oem ratios to be inadequate you can always use aftermarket gearsets that tend to have a wide array of ratios and final drives.
Like others have said it's more or less tuning that will help with fuel economy but turning lower rpm at cruising speeds doesn't hurt. In terms of overall ratios the B16 is the shortest, GSR is in the middle, and LS the tallest. A lot of people are simply putting an LS 5th in so they can keep shorter ratios in the lower gears but have a good "highway" gear.
Some people even build a bastard transmission using gears from all 3. I've seen a lot do a gsr 1st, B16 2nd and 3rd, gsr 4th, and LS 5th with whatever final drive. Although these people are doing a lot of circuit events, autocross, and mountain runs.
On top of the individual gears you can play with final drive ratio and tire height to tweak your setup. Obviously tire size is a lot easier to change lol. Also if you find the oem ratios to be inadequate you can always use aftermarket gearsets that tend to have a wide array of ratios and final drives.
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use this calc: Honda Transmission Calculator by ZealAutowerks
and figure it out by how it drives as an example note your speed in 4th gear at 4k rpm and compare to chart
and figure it out by how it drives as an example note your speed in 4th gear at 4k rpm and compare to chart
(no intention to hijack thread, is relevant)
I have a LS transmission, but I am running a B18B1 longblock, I read somewhere matching a ls tranny with a ls longblock is okay. I ran the tranny on 362whp, and it seemed to work fine (I never tracked it, and never went WOT through all the gears, typically 3rd gear rolls. My car has been down for almost 3 years, so I've learned a lot since, and that the RPM difference between 2nd and 3rd is poor, but honestly, I didn't mind it much since I spooled nearly at 4500rpm.
I would have sold the LS tranny long ago, but it has a CUSCO LSD in it.
I have a LS transmission, but I am running a B18B1 longblock, I read somewhere matching a ls tranny with a ls longblock is okay. I ran the tranny on 362whp, and it seemed to work fine (I never tracked it, and never went WOT through all the gears, typically 3rd gear rolls. My car has been down for almost 3 years, so I've learned a lot since, and that the RPM difference between 2nd and 3rd is poor, but honestly, I didn't mind it much since I spooled nearly at 4500rpm.
I would have sold the LS tranny long ago, but it has a CUSCO LSD in it.
(no intention to hijack thread, is relevant)
I have a LS transmission, but I am running a B18B1 longblock, I read somewhere matching a ls tranny with a ls longblock is okay. I ran the tranny on 362whp, and it seemed to work fine (I never tracked it, and never went WOT through all the gears, typically 3rd gear rolls. My car has been down for almost 3 years, so I've learned a lot since, and that the RPM difference between 2nd and 3rd is poor, but honestly, I didn't mind it much since I spooled nearly at 4500rpm.
I would have sold the LS tranny long ago, but it has a CUSCO LSD in it.
I have a LS transmission, but I am running a B18B1 longblock, I read somewhere matching a ls tranny with a ls longblock is okay. I ran the tranny on 362whp, and it seemed to work fine (I never tracked it, and never went WOT through all the gears, typically 3rd gear rolls. My car has been down for almost 3 years, so I've learned a lot since, and that the RPM difference between 2nd and 3rd is poor, but honestly, I didn't mind it much since I spooled nearly at 4500rpm.
I would have sold the LS tranny long ago, but it has a CUSCO LSD in it.
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