RI_TM

I've done some searching into this topic and is planning on trying it...

Let me know if i need anything else for the project to be complete...(Everything will be GSR, inculding the pistons...the only thing that is going to change is what's listed)

Parts needed:

LS crank
LS rods
LS rod bearings
LS main bearings

Now the question that was most argued about is the oil squiters on the GSR block, I'm planning on keeping them...

i've heard some people said that you don't need to do anything, others say you'll just need to bend the oil squirters just a little to make it fit, then some say that you'll have to modify them because the crank hits the actual screw that holds the oil squirters....

Is there any right way of doing this??? Or is it something that's going to be a test and see...(in other words, put the crank and everything in and see if it'll clear the oil squirters and see from there...)

Just thought i should put the question out there to see if anyone has the right way of doing this project before i go ahead and do it.

Any suggestions and or write ups on this topics would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.

SpeedDreamz.com

You will have to bend the squirters just a bit.

dome

iTrader: (1)

this setup is the way to go. you will make gobbs of torque. i have a ls crank in my gsr block and the oil squirters had to go. motor is also sleeved and bored to 84mm. the crank was hitting the squirters and the side skirts of the pistons 3 out of the 4. the one that would work , man it was like a **** hair between the crank and piston. so i just did away with them. forged internals ok, stock no way.

RI_TM

Thanks!....

anyone else???

I know more people has done this set-up....i would like more opinions...

BoostR41

do you have to raise the deck height to run this set up?

RI_TM

i think as long as you use LS rods you shouldn't need to....from what i've been reading.

correct me if i'm wrong though...

earl

same deck height (or within a few thou)

BoostR41

but you do get more displacment out of the block with the LS crank though right?

earl

yep..38 more cc's

AngelTeg

yes, the B18c and B18B blocks share the same deck height... so no modifications have to be made to that.

And yes, switching to an LS crank and Rod will give you an LS stroke.
so switching from a GSR stroke to an LS stroke will take you from 1797 cc (GSR) to 1834 cc (LS)

It's also worht mentioning that if you want to do this and have a GSR crank, my friend desperately needs a GSR crank and will trade you his LS crank and Rods for your GSR crank and rods, or just your GSR crank.


let me know,
-Mike

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

You wont have a problem with the squiters themselves, I dont know why people say you have to bend them out of the way. The problem is the bolts that hold the squiters to the block. 3 of my squiters had ample clearance while the 4th hit the crank. I filed the corner of the bolt down until it had clearance. I think I made it .020"

Its also worth mentioning that the LS crank weighs half a pound lighter than a GSR crank and alot lighter than a ITR crank.

Its a good idea to have it balanced and polished.

SpeedDreamz.com

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AngelTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes, the B18c and B18B blocks share the same deck height... so no modifications have to be made to that.

And yes, switching to an LS crank and Rod will give you an LS stroke.
so switching from a GSR stroke to an LS stroke will take you from 1797 cc (GSR) to 1834 cc (LS)

It's also worht mentioning that if you want to do this and have a GSR crank, my friend desperately needs a GSR crank and will trade you his LS crank and Rods for your GSR crank and rods, or just your GSR crank.


let me know,
-Mike</TD></TR></TABLE>

What rods does he have?

11SECEG

i heard that you need the take off some material from the bottom of the sleeves to clear off the rods... is this true??? im actually torn between this set up and the full gsr set up....

Antho303T

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 11SECEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i heard that you need the take off some material from the bottom of the sleeves to clear off the rods... is this true??? im actually torn between this set up and the full gsr set up....</TD></TR></TABLE>

No!
You don't have to do that

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

This setup is better and there are no negatives. You'll need to just get the crank in the block to determine what you need to file down. Dont worry, its not a big deal.

89mm LS crank in GSR/ITR block =

V-SPEC 1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This setup is better and there are no negatives. You'll need to just get the crank in the block to determine what you need to file down. Dont worry, its not a big deal.

89mm LS crank in GSR/ITR block = </TD></TR></TABLE>
have u done this setup before? if so, how do u like it. was there any major problem that you have encountered? I was going to do this setup before but some people told me it's not worth it. I have a GSR block and a couple of LS crank and 1 GSR crank as well, but I'd like to build the GSR block w/ the LS crank in it. I've heard that u need to use all gsr parts like bearings, mains, and such. Thanks.

MAD SOHC

So what advantage is there to using the GSR block over the LS block since nearly everything is being replaced? Also with the LS internals will revs be limited to 8500 or so like with the LS? Does it matter if you use the B18a1 or b1?

leadfoot78

I just put together my block, and it's a LS crank in a GSr block. The squirters will have to be bent, the squirter under cylinder #4 was the worst. I bent it as best I could but the crank was actually hitting the base of the squirter so I took an air grinder and shaved it off a little. The crank does not come close to hitting the screw, it was still a pain in the ***.

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedb20vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
have u done this setup before? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Read entire post dude. My original post above answers all your questions.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Leadfoot78 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The squirters will have to be bent, the squirter under cylinder #4 was the worst. I bent it as best I could but the crank was actually hitting the base of the squirter so I took an air grinder and shaved it off a little. The crank does not come close to hitting the screw, it was still a pain in the ***. </TD></TR></TABLE>

For me it was the exact opposite. I didnt have to bent any squiters but the counter weight hit the squiter bolt in #4. Apparently there is a big difference in every crank.

RI_TM

so then you do use LS rod and main bearings?

is there anything else i should know(or anyone else who's reading this).....

thanks for the info Muckman and everyone else who gave there opinion

earl

Same mains and thrusts in both engines. Use the ls rod bearings

RI_TM

would the cylinder walls be o.k. if i was to bore it out to 84mm from the 81mm? or would it need to be sleeved?...how big can i go on a safe status?

the reason i'm asking is because i'm going to be building this motor and squeezing on it.

DC2 to AP2

perfect thread! is there any disadvantages to this setup with either FI or all motor?

mikealike

i have a set of rods they say pr4 on them,, let me know if you can use them,,, just cleaning the garage,,mike

earl

maybe safe at 81.5mm only