Project_SOHC_EX

If I wanted to run an LS crank inside of a B16 block or GSR block what rods can I utilize in this build. Although I'm using a bigger crank will I be able to use the stock honda rods or will only custom rods fit this type of frankenstein motor?

tannerLSt

i'm using ls crank with crower rods in my gsr block.... you must use the ls rods yes... in the b16 i believe you will need custom rods as the block is shorter than the ls/gsr block.. use the gsr block, better block all around than the b16... added strength cause of the girdle, you will need to plug the oil squirters or bend them out of the way in the gsr block because the crank is bigger

Project_SOHC_EX

anyone else out there familiar with this type of setup I hear of it being done so often with a lot of the SFWD drag guys utilizing the ls crank and going to 10,000 rpms but tyring to get the most torque out of the setup... I thought the only reason you can't spin the ls to high rpms like the VTEC motors is because of one a better head but in terms of the block the ls wouldn't stay lubricated at high rpms....So i was told the best way to perform ls vtec is sticking the ls crank into a vtec block I have a b16 and a gsr...i'm still not too sure on what to do about rods...I guess a better way of posing the question is what stock honda/acura rods will work in this setup if there are any that will work at all and is it true that i have to bend the oil squirters back...like tanner said " as you will need to plug the oil squirters or bend them out of the way in the gsr block because the crank is bigger"

ctr83

i don't think you can in b16. i have gsr block with ls crank and rods.

kyden

everyone i've seen with an ls crank in a gsr block plugs the oil squirters because they're not needed with forged pistons.

HiProfile

People do ls/vtec (block & crank) because its cheaper and manages a bit more torque. People use just the LS crank because they start with a B18C*/B16B and want more torque.

In a b16a* you need shorter rods and/or custom pistons with a higher wrist pin location because the deckheight is shorter on the B16a*.

IMO the only reason to run the GSR/ITR blocks over the LS is to save time/parts to get VTEC to work. If your goal is 10k, chances are you're going to balance the rotating assembly & put a ati/fliudampener on the crank, which comes close to nulifying the benifits from the girdle. Three other b18b possitives: 1) you gain room for the DP with the non-gsr/itr oil pan, 2) you don't have to plug any squirters, 3) (most significant) you have more rod bearing surface area to theoreticly hold more power.

h22mantis

How would you go about pugging them. Thanks

tannerLSt

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h22mantis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How would you go about pugging them. Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

get the golden eagle block plugs, they are like $12.... and take out the oil squiters and put the plugs in, it is possible to do this with the block assembled

Project_SOHC_EX

ctr83 you didn't have to plug any oil squirters? i see the guy below says he did it only when running forged pistons...but i want the oil squirters... you have a gsr block with ls crank and rods and you didn't plug the oil squirters correct? if so then i already have all the components to do this swap...

Project_SOHC_EX

to simplify if i want to run the ls crank and rods in the gsr block do I <U>have to</U> plug the oil squirters if i'm not going with forged pistons? i was thinking after i get the diagnosis from the machine shop on bore size i would use the 81+mm OEM piston offered by RS machine i want the oil squirters to keep that ls crank lubed at 8k+

h22mantis

Thanks tannerLSt.

Project_SOHC_EX

??????

blinx9900

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Project_SOHC_EX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i want the oil squirters to keep that ls crank lubed at 8k+</TD></TR></TABLE>

oil squirters do NOT lube the crank, they cool the bottom of the piston which helps with a factory setup that has a cast piston...

Project_SOHC_EX

you still didn't answer my question can i use the ls crank inside of the gsr block without having to plug the oil squirters?

Sr420Det

I still dont fully understand the point of doing all this work when you can just buy a ls block for near nothing. If you already have a gsr block and crank why dont you just use it. Isnt the rod to stroke ration better in these blocks therefore putting less stress on the motor. Somebody please explain.

tannerLSt

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sr420Det &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I still dont fully understand the point of doing all this work when you can just buy a ls block for near nothing. If you already have a gsr block and crank why dont you just use it. Isnt the rod to stroke ration better in these blocks therefore putting less stress on the motor. Somebody please explain.</TD></TR></TABLE>

the point is , the gsr block is a little stronger... it has the block girdle... and we don't want to use the gsr crank cause the ls crank puts out more displacement and torque...


YES you can keep the oil squirters, you just have to heat them up and bend them

and i got my gsr block for $50 and my ls crank for $50 , so why the hell not!!!!

tannerLSt

woops double post

blinx9900

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Project_SOHC_EX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you still didn't answer my question can i use the ls crank inside of the gsr block without having to plug the oil squirters?</TD></TR></TABLE>

wow, i seriously hope your joking, after all the stupid questions people answered for you that could have been answered with a simple search you have the nerve to respond like that? thats fine, i'll make sure to never post on any of your threads again!

honestly your too stupid to do this, dont bother, just buy a motor thats already assembled because your bound for failure from what ive seen so far.

Project_SOHC_EX

the point is , the gsr block is a little stronger... it has the block girdle... and we don't want to use the gsr crank cause the ls crank puts out more displacement and torque... but i'm the dumb one if you were such a honda/acura buff you would've understood the point of building this type of motor moron...back to tanner when i bend the oil squirters that won't affect peformance any will it...and also from what you're saying the ls crank and rods will fit in the gsr block without any modification(i.e. notching the block as done on the sohc's to fit forged rods)

Project_SOHC_EX

oil squirters do NOT lube the crank, they cool the bottom of the piston which helps with a factory setup that has a cast piston...dude you're a complete moron...how does the bottom of the piston get cool if you rev an ls to 8k+ you'll blow the bottom end eventually, the VTEC motors in theory do not have that problem because of VTEC(hint oil squirters), and last time i checked if there's no oil in a motor at 8k+ most people blow their motors that why some people switch to dry/wet sump kits by Z10 because of mechanical failure that regular factory oil pumps suffer from...dude do your homework you don't know too much

lsvtechatch92

what i would do if you want a high revving motor is as follows.... sleeve the b16 block bore to 84mm and use the (ls)89mm crank... now you have a 84x89 motor... you will use the ls rods. at this point an off the shelf piston will stick out the deck... so you have a set of custom pistons made in which you would move the wrist pin up 2mm which is 80 thousands (i believe) dont quote me on the thousands part now you have a 2 liter stroker motor that will make gobbs of torque and hp

tannerLSt

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Project_SOHC_EX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...how does the bottom of the piston get cool if you rev an ls to 8k+ you'll blow the bottom end eventually, the VTEC motors in theory do not have that problem because of VTEC(hint oil squirters), and last time i checked if there's no oil in a motor at 8k+ most people blow their motors that why some people switch to dry/wet sump kits by Z10 because of mechanical failure that regular factory oil pumps suffer from...dude do your homework you don't know too much</TD></TR></TABLE>
bottom of a forged piston does not need to be cooled... and there are TONS of ls bottom ends that rev to 8k and higher with no problems... you say vtec motors don't have that problem cause of the oil squirters but what about the b16a block, it doesn't have them... there are TONS and TONS of motors without oil squirters that rev to 9k and higher...

i plugged my oil squirters cause they are not needed and you'll get better oil pressure if you do so

and if your asking all these questions , you obviously haven't done YOUR homework and don't know to much

blinx9900

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Project_SOHC_EX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dude you're a complete moron...how does the bottom of the piston get cool if you rev an ls to 8k+ you'll blow the bottom end eventually, the VTEC motors in theory do not have that problem because of VTEC(hint oil squirters), and last time i checked if there's no oil in a motor at 8k+ most people blow their motors that why some people switch to dry/wet sump kits by Z10 because of mechanical failure that regular factory oil pumps suffer from...dude do your homework you don't know too much</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok *** hat if your gonna talk **** at least learn how to quote me properly, you have no idea what your talking about, i fail to see the point of your response, or the reason/logic behind your statements, all i can see is your trying to talk **** to me and trying to tell me im wrong but everything your saying is complete bullshit. you obviously have zero understanding of the English language and how engines work, please learn to structure your sentences properly so i can understand what your saying.

and about me doing my "homework" as you put it? ive been doing this for 8 years and i did my first LS/vtec over six years ago! your the moron, how many engines have you assembled? i bet NONE! oil squirters are located above the crank and shoot UP, they shoot UP because the cool the back side of the piston. but your obviously too stupid to realize that.

your the one that needs to go do your homework, honestly asking a question about ls/vtec in 2008? where you been this whole time? try to search you freakin n00b

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Project_SOHC_EX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the point is , the gsr block is a little stronger... it has the block girdle... and we don't want to use the gsr crank cause the ls crank puts out more displacement and torque... but i'm the dumb one if you were such a honda/acura buff you would've understood the point of building this type of motor moron...back to tanner when i bend the oil squirters that won't affect peformance any will it...and also from what you're saying the ls crank and rods will fit in the gsr block without any modification(i.e. notching the block as done on the sohc's to fit forged rods)</TD></TR></TABLE>

i was making fun of you for not knowing if an LS crank fits in a GSR, i never questioned why someone would do that as the results are obvious, your the moron your so stupid you dont even realize how im making fun of you your the stupid people i will laugh at my whole life, im so much smarter than you and your too stupid to ever realize that...

tanner said it best, and this is exactly what i was saying last time i clowned you:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tannerLSt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and if your asking all these questions , you obviously haven't done YOUR homework and don't know to much </TD></TR></TABLE>

tokesGTR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lsvtechatch92 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what i would do if you want a high revving motor is as follows.... sleeve the b16 block bore to 84mm and use the (ls)89mm crank... now you have a 84x89 motor... you will use the ls rods. at this point an off the shelf piston will stick out the deck... so you have a set of custom pistons made in which you would move the wrist pin up 2mm which is 80 thousands (i believe) dont quote me on the thousands part now you have a 2 liter stroker motor that will make gobbs of torque and hp</TD></TR></TABLE>

And why the hell would you want to do that instead of using a GSR/LS block? So you can have a less stable piston in the bore because you have to use a tiny compression height piston? Don't you remember the Tech43 guy who was selling kits like this that used tons of oil, and generally sucked ***? Running those internals in a B16 block will not make it rev higher/faster/better than those internals in a B18 block, and pose nothing but problems.

The B16A deck height is 7.992", the B18C/B deck height is 8.347". You don't have to move the pin 2mm up, you have to move the pin up about 9mm, 0.355 inches. When you're starting off with a piston of a 1.185" compression height, you realize how massive of a difference .355" is. You push the pin right through the oil ring, which is bad.

b20vtechb

i did a ls crank in a gsr block awhile back and unless you have significanly larger then stock bore like 84mm+ the oil squiters will not fit i could not find and combination of bending that came even remotely close to clearing the pistons or the crank they just plain don't fit. and there not really needed anyway so block em off. also a ls crank in a gsr block is probly the best way to do it the gsr block is significantly more ridgid , not only cause of the girdle but cause of all the extra support webbing on the outside of the block.