LightningTeg

See this thread: http://forum.ectune.com/viewtopic.ph...ht=spark+plugs

sanman000719

.018
650/412
24psi
e85 rc1000's

this was recommended by my tuner, and well look at them numbers on the itty bitty 1000's something is working

sanman000719

if you wanna call him and have a conversation with someone that knows let me know

AllShowNoGo727

iTrader: (1)

hondata CPR!

sanman000719

hondata CPR!

thank you

LightningTeg

Or you could just read that thread which is full of reputable tuners and figure it out on your own

sanman000719

im good my car makes outstanding power on its setup, and gapped at .018

you keep your .040 gap or what ever it is your using

LightningTeg

Ok just be arrogant and listen to one opinion and take it as fact.

Bugermass

with the M&W Prodrag 4 we made over 1000HP on E95 with a stock gap (about .030) on IK27s

sanman000719

the fuel, and heat range is something that hasnt been mentioned yet

look im not friggin tuner, and only know what my tuner has told me, and he said we gap them low to prevent spark blow out

like i said if you would like to chat with him ill gladly pass along his shops number to you so you can get a better explanation.

sanman000719

98' Integra LS 513whp/366trq 30lbs, pump gas


what size fuel spouts did you make this on, and since its pump gas is this the reason you gap as high as you do wich you havent stated yet what that is

LightningTeg

Precision 1000's. I gap at .022 because anything higher will miss up top. That is on 93 and 9 range plugs and around 12 deg. Stock LS head and a log manifold. **** ton of backpressure so I wont run it that high until I get a better manifold.

Im not saying dont listen to your tuner, Im saying read up on the subject before telling people ignition systems dont do anything except "clean up the graph".

sanman000719

well when my build was planned and we were having issues my tuner was talking with T1, and guess what was recommended

is that what i said because i was pretty sure i said this/ what the better ign box's do is clean up the signal allowing for a better crisper power band without any sputters in the graph

just incase you missed it the first time

LightningTeg

I dont see the relevance. Every car is different and will want a different gap.

And that's incorrect. It gives the spark more energy so you can run a bigger gap without blowout and make more power.

sanman000719

so it doesnt amplify signal then ok and amplifying it doesnt clean it up over stock

look dud im done with ya and the bullshit arguments here

OP you want a kick *** system do what i said contact T1, and see what he says thats the ebst advice given out in this entire thread that turned into a I read more than this guy so i know more debate.

good luck with your adventures, and only take advice from a great tuner, and T1 is probly the best there is. TATA

LightningTeg

Yup just ask your tuner and do no research beyond what he says so that you go into the situation with only information from one source instead of doing research on your own and using that in combination of what your tuner say to come to your own conclusion. **** the scientific method.

You also never said anything about amplifying. Quoting you for the 3rd time

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

With an m&w pro 14 you shouldn't hav to run that tight of a plug gap. You run 18 thousandths on stock dizzy and 600hp with a good aftermarket unit you should be running a much larger plug gap for a larger spark and more complete burn. I'm running 32 thousandths at 400whp with a summit ignition and crane coil. The m&w should be able to produce more speak energy by probably 20-30k millijoules than what I'm running so having an 18 thousandths gap just doesn't make any sense at all

Yes it cleans up ignition signal and performs better overall but it also drastically increases spark energy which is what's. Needed to open up plug gaps and not have spark blow out. If you have blown out at 650whp with 28-30 thousandths then something isn't working correctly in the m&w setup ImO

V-SPEC 1

I agree.

kyden

i must have a freakshow motor or distributor, lol.

Bseriescivic5

Some good info in here, Im having some problems with my setup at just over 300whp. Keep fouling plugs due to weak ignition we think..... debating getting another dizzy and re-locating the coil to external. It was my understanding that OEM dizzys should be fine for this power level.

Also, what are everyone's opinion on ebay distributors? API ignition i think is the brand?

kbouchard1092

Exactly so my logic was correct then.....IT wouldnt have made sense to me to keep the gap so tight if it wasnt needed.

sanman000719

do what ya do ill keep mine tight it make the power on the small setup i have

guess it works so it aint changing

LightningTeg

Cant hurt to try.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

I understand the logic. If it's not broke dOnt fix it but it's kinda like throwing money out the window and it only takes about ten minutes to open the gap on the plugs to test it and if it doesn't work then you can gap them right back down. I would try it for the heck of it but you don't have to

extralargenog

iTrader: (1)

MAde 620 WHP JDM internal coil dizzy off a crate H22 motor, didnt change ****... Not the cap not nothing. not 1 issue.

Sanman, youre only making under 600 right? OEM should manage that ****..

I run a 7AL2 now with nasty coil. To the dude that thinks all the boxes do is "clean" the power... COme grab the end of the coil wire of this ****ing thing.

Hammering gaps down unnecessarily produces sub par idle as well. That said at 759 WHP and 579 TQ I run 4554s at .021-.022 No issue