G"UNIT

This is going to be a long story. I did everything......

Ok I have a boosted Stock JDMB16 in my teg. The setup is hondata s200w/boost inline pro manifold, sc61, 3 bar map, 1000cc injectors, walbro 255hp fuel pump. It was street tuned by Mase in September of 04, and ran fine until now. Here goes the story..

I leave work early to go pick up my motor from the machine shop. I stop and FILLED up with gas at a pumpers and put 93 octane in. Im pulling out of the gas station and the car starts to act up really bad. It bucks up and cuts out and pops real bad and will hardly run, I have to keep it over 2500rpms or it cuts off. I get it home and change the plugs and that didnt fix it. So i figured I got bad gas. Drianed the gas and put new in and still has the problem. So i move on to the dizzy, changed it out with a new one and still the same problem. Checked timing and cam timing it was good. Did compression test cylinder 1=200psi. cylinder2=210psi cylinder3=205psi, cylinder4=210psi all the way across. Change the spark plug wires and same problem. Check all fuses and relays still no change. Change the 3 bar map sensor still same problem. Checked all my injector wiring and it was good. Change resitor box and it still didnt fix it. AT this point I start to do anything. So i put my stock ecu in and stock injectors and stock map and the car runs fine. I move to hondata. Changed p28 with a friend still problem. Get another blue box still same problem. Im like well it has to be the chip. So i got mase to burn me a new one and send it to me. I get it in today. Put the chip in. CAR RUNNNNNNS great for 30min and the same problem comes back. Now i have no clue what to do.
I did a search on H-t and seen simlar problems but none that has fixed mine. I pm'd a few people with there simlar problems and no help. My car has been down for 1 month now..lol..... SO ANYONE??????

SFWD 1934

Dude that was driving me crazy just reading the post. I am sorry to hear that. Almost sounds like there is a bad ground of some kind, possibly in the harness itself. Or could even be in the P28 that was soldered for the HONDATA. I saw a problem like that once, where the solder job was not done correctly, and the car ran EXACTLY like you are describing now.

I hope that helps even in the smallest of ways. I know that it sucks man.

Jason

DOHCarp

You can try burning a new chip and putting it in someone elses ECU...could be somehting wrong with your ECU that is hurting the chip.

G"UNIT

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SFWD 1934 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dude that was driving me crazy just reading the post. I am sorry to hear that. Almost sounds like there is a bad ground of some kind, possibly in the harness itself. Or could even be in the P28 that was soldered for the HONDATA. I saw a problem like that once, where the solder job was not done correctly, and the car ran EXACTLY like you are describing now.

I hope that helps even in the smallest of ways. I know that it sucks man.

Jason</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea I was kind of thinking of this. but it ran for so long. Can solder go bad? I might try to resolder them. I put my chip in a friends P28 before I got the new chip and it didnt help. He sold the ecu so i can try it again with the new one. When I frist put the new chip in today it ran good and then after about 30 min it quit working and started doing the same thing. Oh and there is no Check engine light..

SFWD 1934

Yea there wasn't one when it happened to us either. Just sounded like the car was runing on one freakin cylinder. By chance to you happen to have an extra engine harness available to you? You could just kind of throw it over the motor and plug it in and see what happens also. I know it sucks when you have to get down to just trying odd ball stuff like that.

G"UNIT

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SFWD 1934 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yea there wasn't one when it happened to us either. Just sounded like the car was runing on one freakin cylinder. By chance to you happen to have an extra engine harness available to you? You could just kind of throw it over the motor and plug it in and see what happens also. I know it sucks when you have to get down to just trying odd ball stuff like that.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, but i'll find one and try that.. Hell I'll do anything at this point.

Haleiwa-Brando

I think it's one of three things.
1) The soldering job on the ECU is bad.
2) The wires in the harnesses that connect to the dizzy are loose and/or broken.
3) The grounding wire on the tranny is loose and/or dirty.

97hb

What about the light on the blue box? Whats it doing?

stackz

did you try to pull codes when you had the stock ecu stuff back in the car??

also, when you went from the stock ecu/injectors/map...did you simply switch to a p28 or did you ALSO swap back in your bigger injectors/map??

It seems you did everything with the injectors BUT check the injectors themselves for shorts. could be one of them is going bad...

FatboyGSR

Someone need to help my buddy out. He has tried everything. This car need to be back on the streets.

G"UNIT

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Haleiwa-Brando &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think it's one of three things.
1) The soldering job on the ECU is bad.
2) The wires in the harnesses that connect to the dizzy are loose and/or broken.
3) The grounding wire on the tranny is loose and/or dirty.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Im going to check these things today. I checked the ground wire and it was good. It ran fine for a while then took a **** agian. Could the resitors I solder in the ECU go bad? or would the solder be bad?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97hb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What about the light on the blue box? Whats it doing?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It is staying on all the time. Doesnt flash or anything.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stackz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you try to pull codes when you had the stock ecu stuff back in the car??

also, when you went from the stock ecu/injectors/map...did you simply switch to a p28 or did you ALSO swap back in your bigger injectors/map??

It seems you did everything with the injectors BUT check the injectors themselves for shorts. could be one of them is going bad...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes I tried to pull codes when the hondata was in and the stock ecu and no codes. I swaped my injectors and map sensor back in when i put the p28 back in.
I was going to send the injectors off and get them checked and cleaned, but it ran fine when I put the new chip in for like 30min. then started running bad again. Could injectors do this?

dennis

I know you said you replaced the distributor, but how about the cap/rotor? I've had some gremlins appear from a bad cap with hairline cracks. What kind of ignition? If aftermarket, can you go back to stock? ALthough I'm guessin you probably already did that.

Also, on my bikes in the past. I was able to determine which cylinder was acting up by feeling the temperature of the exhaust mani (although, this may be tough with a cast iron mani). An infrared temp gun works great for this, but I usually use my fingers since I don't own one.

Just some ideas... good luck

Race Egr

Ive been having kind of a similar problem with my hondata. Everytime I let the car sit for 5 minutes or turn it off and it sits and I start it back up and drive it. It will do exactly what yours does, but then it will go away after driving it or a few minutes.

G"UNIT

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dennis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know you said you replaced the distributor, but how about the cap/rotor? I've had some gremlins appear from a bad cap with hairline cracks. What kind of ignition? If aftermarket, can you go back to stock? ALthough I'm guessin you probably already did that.

Also, on my bikes in the past. I was able to determine which cylinder was acting up by feeling the temperature of the exhaust mani (although, this may be tough with a cast iron mani). An infrared temp gun works great for this, but I usually use my fingers since I don't own one.

Just some ideas... good luck</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have stock ignition on my car. yea i put new cap and rotor button on there and still has same problem. I put all new parts in the dizzy.

Napier-Ive been having kind of a similar problem with my hondata. Everytime I let the car sit for 5 minutes or turn it off and it sits and I start it back up and drive it. It will do exactly what yours does, but then it will go away after driving it or a few minutes.

Man i hate it hondata BLAHHHHHHHH

Race Egr

Im thinking their is something loose in my ecu because ive check all my wiring and grounds. Ive cleaned all of my grounds etcc. Im gonna recheck everything, but man its annoying

FOrSfEd

Damn man that sux to hear.... yeah hondata gets a from me but thats just me. It does sound like a bad ground, or loose wire something small and simple which are always the cause for big time headaches. Good luck with it though.

dennis

I've never worked with hondata, but isn't the ecu modded the same as the other obd1 tuning programs require? If so, dump the blue box and try out a tune using crome/uber. If it's still hosed, it's probably your ECU, if it works, it's hondata's blue box.

Any chance at all to reburn your hondata tune? Not sure if you tried that yet or not.

Edit, sorry, just saw you tried that.

FOrSfEd

thats a damn good idea, kinda what I had to do. When my car started acting up and not starting and this and that I took out hondata poped in uberdata and wah lah works fine. I've been runing uber since then with no problems.

stackz

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by G"UNIT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Could injectors do this?</TD></TR></TABLE>

depends, I'd check them just to be sure.

If you've got a spare injector clip laying around and a resistance meter (or voltmeter that will read resistance) you can check them real quick. Just probe the two wires on the clip and read the resistance on the meter.

obviously they should all 4 read similarly. low imp ~ 2-3 ohms, hi imp ~11-14ohms

yours may be higher or lower since it's been a while for me with injectors and I cant honestly remember the full range that the low imp and the hi imp can carry but if you've got three that read approx 2ohm and one that reads 0ohm or 10ohm then you know something is up...

you say you've been checking your wiring?? how?? with a voltmeter?? I'd again set it to resistance so that unprobed the meter read OL (overload) and when you probe the ends of the wire it hits 0.000

did you check the entire engine harness??

have you done anything with the o2 sensor??

stizzit

I don't have the same problem but something similar where if i accelerate hard the car dies and cannot be restarted until i turn the car all the way off and back on again, ie reset the ecu.

I think you may be corrupting the data in the chip. You can send your old chip back to mase and he can do a diff to see if it matches what he has or anyone with a burner can do this provided they have the image file.

You also may just be damageing the chips, who knows. Let me tell ya, a lose solder joint or socket can go a long way to ruining chips.

let us know and good luck

G"UNIT

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dennis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've never worked with hondata, but isn't the ecu modded the same as the other obd1 tuning programs require? If so, dump the blue box and try out a tune using crome/uber. If it's still hosed, it's probably your ECU, if it works, it's hondata's blue box.

Any chance at all to reburn your hondata tune? Not sure if you tried that yet or not.

Edit, sorry, just saw you tried that. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea i had mase burn me a new chip and it ran fine for like 30 min. and the n took a ****. I tried a frineds blue box and it didnt work. Still has the same problem. I got a friend that has uberdata and im going to try his unit and see how that works.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stackz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

depends, I'd check them just to be sure.

If you've got a spare injector clip laying around and a resistance meter (or voltmeter that will read resistance) you can check them real quick. Just probe the two wires on the clip and read the resistance on the meter.

obviously they should all 4 read similarly. low imp ~ 2-3 ohms, hi imp ~11-14ohms

yours may be higher or lower since it's been a while for me with injectors and I cant honestly remember the full range that the low imp and the hi imp can carry but if you've got three that read approx 2ohm and one that reads 0ohm or 10ohm then you know something is up...

you say you've been checking your wiring?? how?? with a voltmeter?? I'd again set it to resistance so that unprobed the meter read OL (overload) and when you probe the ends of the wire it hits 0.000

did you check the entire engine harness??

have you done anything with the o2 sensor??</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes I changed the 02sensor with one that i know was working and still has the same problem. I have been checking the engine harrness for lose spots. but it only mess up when i have the hondata and p28 in. The stock things it runs fine. Im thinking my P28 still. But im going to check the injectors tonight.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stizzit &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't have the same problem but something similar where if i accelerate hard the car dies and cannot be restarted until i turn the car all the way off and back on again, ie reset the ecu.

I think you may be corrupting the data in the chip. You can send your old chip back to mase and he can do a diff to see if it matches what he has or anyone with a burner can do this provided they have the image file.

You also may just be damageing the chips, who knows. Let me tell ya, a lose solder joint or socket can go a long way to ruining chips.

let us know and good luck</TD></TR></TABLE>

Im going to check the solder tonight.

RobbieG35

BUMP for my bud

turbodohcsi

have you dont anything to mess with the timing on the motor...... it seems like an electrical problem to me, but im just trying to open up the options.

G"UNIT

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbodohcsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">have you dont anything to mess with the timing on the motor...... it seems like an electrical problem to me, but im just trying to open up the options.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, all the timing is right. Timing is on 16 and cam timing is perfect.

turbosi03

damn I want to know the results...