SiRCiviC94

Wondering why with the flip of a headlight switch, fan turning on, amp running are all affecting the afr making it richer the more load.

The only things I think of Is the map needs adjusted for each rpm low down. The car doesnt idle consistently the tb/tps need attention or maybe an alternator.

I'm wondering if anyone had similar isssues on a eg b series turbo on chrome or can relate to these symptoms. It's just more of a nuisance at idle anyway.

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

log the battery voltage and fine tune the injector battery offset.

turbociv910

weak battery maybe, but x 2 on ^^. Make sure you've got that set up right.

SiRCiviC94

Wow the basics eh. The battery is sure past its life at its 8th season! Thank you I will check that.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Battery, alternator, power wiring size and age, grounding locations, number of grounds, condition, etc even how the wideband is wired can influence afr.

It's clear you have an ongoing electrical system issue.


A properly kept car shouldnt have these issues.

Our c6 z06, 600whp, under driven ati dampener, running a smaller battery, 4 hids, 5 hardwired go pros and 2 permanent cameras, as well as brake duct blower fans that pick up things off the ground/create downforce (nascar fans have nothing on these) plus rad fan, oil and trans cooler fans, running the aim track datalogger, ngk wideband, as well as the ecu datalogger, traction control (adaptive) as well as occasionally hitting abs all at once has no bearing on afr/lambda readings. Oh yea and running the motor lol

So if simply turning on your lights causes issues, either you run enough lights to illuminate a commercial runway or you need to overhaul your whole electrical system (bigger gauge wiring, more/proper grounds, good connections, new battery and test the alt.

A quick way is crank the car and pull the negative battery cable, car should run and drive off the alternator alone

SiRCiviC94

^ I was told to never do this oldschooler :p I didn't mention any issue or notice it last year the battery is pooched it prob runs 11.99 volts ill check when I get the beast later today.

I had a higher wattage bulb but put stocks in too much cops Mto $ hungry ******** out.

I will put a 1 season old batt in and see what happens. The wiring is all stock, not even a Vtec conversion. And it did this before the new swap but will double check grounds!

Appreciate the ideas. The lights or big stereos growing up didn't affect anything before even my old boat can run an amp haha. Gotta be the batt.

LightningTeg

Check everything's working correctly and then mess with the battery offset table.

SiRCiviC94

Will do. I had way more time last year all I got to check was 14.5 volts at idle normal operation.

Pretty sure there's a tps issue as well sometimes it idles properly other times no chance it will go under 1100 or so. Then the fan clicks I turn the lights on it almost dies and show <10.0afr... Sometimes when it starts its just barely running till I rev it a bit... Only then it comes to life...

I'm going to do some maintenance to the tb and iacv.. But if the tps is gone ill pretty replace the whole tb / tps one time..

Random Honda issues the car feels pretty powerful ET's coming up soon

SiRCiviC94

Swapped the battery no change. It never did this before the b16 was changed out for another one with the new intake manifold.. Used the 1gen throttle body though. That's all I'm going on now is a faulty tps/tb/iacv and adjust the tune for lower and upper 1000 rpms since there's too much fuel there.

Such a nuisance

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

As stated originally look at the reported voltage in whatever EMS you are tuning with. Note the normal idle voltage and the voltage it drops to when the fan or headlights come on. Open the injector battery offset table, navigate to the "extra load" voltage and adjust the offset value until the AFR is constant. There should be little to no change in AFR under varying voltages.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Could you have forgotten a few ground points when you did the swap? If the motor isn't properly grounded you'll have voltage issues since the alternator won't properly charge the system

And as muck suggested, it sounds like your tune isn't "complete" voltage offset should always be part of any tune, as well as temperature and barometric pressure offsets. Just like how injector offset and dead time has to be compensated for

SiRCiviC94

Ill look into it and mention it. The track prep sucked and had bad wheel hop I got 13.4 at 107. 11 pounds of boost but not enough pull? :/ ill update the voltages and what goes on with the tune. I gotta trap at least 115-120

SiRCiviC94

Newest update is the cars voltage goes from 14.2 steady to 12.5-13.0 when the fan kicks on making the car idle down to like 200rpm and really rich. So far so good boosting it

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

If only there was a table that would adjust for battery voltage.. hmm

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

^exactly

And the ecu should be compensating to bring idle back up... or you have one serious fan

I'm kinda old school though, I use the throttle stop screw to set base idle, no idle air control (use that for anti lag sometimes) but my itbs have a second throttle cam where I can simply use a pull throttle (like a single engine aircraft pull) and run a high idle at my desired rpm, I also use this for rally style antilag, since I can provide all the air I need, plus since I'm deleting cruise control, these cables have a friction lock so I get cruise control back in the classiest of manors lol

Op adjust your voltage offset tables like yesterday. We've already told you part of the problem. Take a screenshot of your current values and post up before changing anything

I would still test the alternator and all connections, as the alternator should automatically compensate for the voltage/amperage draw

SiRCiviC94

There's an idea. I'm know I'm avoiding the voltage tables but that's cause my tuner and myself are super busy, the alternator is 20+ years old lol. I may try another one first.

The thing with the volt offsets is the car was tuned before and did not do this till this year. The fan is oem