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Just mounting in the charge pipe is sufficient enough and it's more responsive that way but if you want to take the time and have the patience to not ruin the sensor then yeah it'll be much fast responding shaved.
I welded the OBD-1 IAT bung from Xenocron (I think it was from them, been a few years).
I had a friend play with screws and silicone mounting on his car. Let's just say it's not worth it. You essentially can't use the rubber o-ring due to the plastic being brittle (hence the built in stops). He cracked 3 of them trying to get it to work, yeah, stupid I know.
But he had issues with the RTV blowing out above 20 psi or so. Sure it could be poor application or who knows what, but by drilling the hole big enough for flush mount (no o-ring) that's what was happening.
I convinced him to switch to the CRV IAT since I had one laying around and we just welded a nut to the piping. Personally, I prefer the OBD-1 sensors for the sole reason of how they mount. In my experience you can bend the piping rather easily if you over-tighten the screw types (LOL @ friends).
I welded the OBD-1 IAT bung from Xenocron (I think it was from them, been a few years).
I had a friend play with screws and silicone mounting on his car. Let's just say it's not worth it. You essentially can't use the rubber o-ring due to the plastic being brittle (hence the built in stops). He cracked 3 of them trying to get it to work, yeah, stupid I know.
But he had issues with the RTV blowing out above 20 psi or so. Sure it could be poor application or who knows what, but by drilling the hole big enough for flush mount (no o-ring) that's what was happening.
I convinced him to switch to the CRV IAT since I had one laying around and we just welded a nut to the piping. Personally, I prefer the OBD-1 sensors for the sole reason of how they mount. In my experience you can bend the piping rather easily if you over-tighten the screw types (LOL @ friends).
It would be easy to fab up that piece at work. I'll give it a shot this winter.
I can't remember, with something like an S300 or Neptune can you run a GM IAT sensor? They have an open junction that works very well. I've seen smoother temperature readings by removing the cage around the sensor.
If I can find the sensor off the accord I'll take a pic of the junction.
You can datalog a GM sensor with v3 but can't have it make changes to the tune. I used a flange welded to my charge pipe as well. Much simpler. When I made the switch to infinity I just tapped the center hole for 1/8 npt so I could use the Aem pro intake temp sensor. Worked like a charm and still capable of using and OEM sensor if I had to.
I thought I took the resin off the Accord sensor but apparently I didn't.
The car was virtually stock save for a short ram intake and a cat back, stock ECU/TCU, automatic, 225k. After I modified the IAT sensor I saw a pretty consistent 2MPG increase on average. Car also drove better in general, especially at part throttle cruise. It also seemed to do better on cold starts and responded better to changes in ambient temperature throughout the day.
I'm putting my Series 1 AEM EMS on it once I get the engine built (F22A1, 12:1 static CR, 86mm Nippon 2618 cast K pistons, ceramic coated domes and ringlands, coated skirts), H beam rods, head work/cam, K intake manifold, CSS block, E85, FP TD06SL2-20G, possibly compounded with my TE06H-25A) so I'll move over to a GM IAT sensor in the charge pipe. Aiming for 400-500ish with lots of torque. Not sure how the stock sleeves will behave but now that I've seen the CSS system withstand crazy power I'm pretty confident the sleeves won't fail. My only concern is head lifting.
Just buy this http://www.ebay.com/itm/221930513798?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT have it welded and scrape away the resin like they did and your good. You can even choose aluminum or steel.
Can make the same thing in about 2.5 minutes with a band saw and a drill/tap too...
You will need an end mill to put the step into the piece to accommodate the o-ring too though. You could also use a lathe I guess, but getting it centered may be a bit of a PITA. Without the step, you will be in no better of a place than just using self-tapping screws through your existing piping (you will crack the IAT or have sealing issues).
On a side note - I have been accidentally buying a lot from SickBirdCNC as of late. They are making a ton of aluminum brackets and adapters now.
You will need an end mill to put the step into the piece to accommodate the o-ring too though. You could also use a lathe I guess, but getting it centered may be a bit of a PITA. Without the step, you will be in no better of a place than just using self-tapping screws through your existing piping (you will crack the IAT or have sealing issues).
On a side note - I have been accidentally buying a lot from SickBirdCNC as of late. They are making a ton of aluminum brackets and adapters now.
We have a Bridgeport here as well. But I figured the step could be done less elegantly with a drill too.
Ok so the crv iat has a different plug than whats on the em1 engine harness. Are any of the metal threaded ones plug n play to my harness? If so which year/model?
Use the one you already have and pick up a rubber grommet like pictured, take your IAT sensor into the store and see which will fit best, then remove pipe drill hole, insert grommet, insert IAT and done.
Uhh yeah, LOL! I wish my old SD card didn't crash because I had a funny pic of a friend's zip tie mod to keep it from popping out with the push in style. Rather interesting... but still would push out some. Why not just do it right?
From what I remember all of the CRV plugs use the OBD1 plug.
IIRC certain K series IAT sensors are threaded and use an OBD2 plug. Granted a few of the K sensors are different from B/D/F/H. Like the vtec solenoid and vtec pressure switch are 2 pin instead of one, all Honda engines use the same idiot light sender though. I would take a look.
And a new harness isn't a big deal to splice if you do it right. Cut back the covering, cut off the old plug, solder new one on, heat shrink it. Done
I have a new harness and REALLY dont want to cut anything
Ill have to get a pigtail and see if i can depin it or something meh
Like I said, the EM1 pins aren't exactly the same as the OBD-1 round plug style. I can't remember exactly what I had to do to get it to work, but I do know it was a very tight fit... and it --barely-- worked. The harness not being cut was a requirement as well and is why it was done. Even though it can be done, I would rather just cut the wires and solder on the right plug.
Re: Let's talk boost + IAT sensor
