Ls1 FD3s

i have a chance to pick up a complete Fmax kit with a bunch of extras for 1200, has 4000 miles on, and is is excellent shape, comes with a tial WG, and not the ******* delta spike WG.
Currently i have a US b18c, DC 4-1,skunk2 mani, short ram, skunk2 catless catback, kenji ECU, VAFC, CTR cams, cam gears, B&M FPR, 255 pump, ACT 6 puck clutch, and a good Ole N.O.S. 80shot wet. Without half those mods and the 80shot i pulled a 13.91 on street tires with an ugly 2.19 60ft. i now have 13x7 lenso's w/ 24/245/13 MT slicks. So on slicks open header with all my mods i think a 13.5 is totally not out of the question on motor. On spray, i would like to think i could crack 12.99s, many say its totally doable, im skepticle. granted the car totally hauls *** on the juice tho .
if i run this kit at 8-10PSI,,, depends on how ballsy i feel with stock CR, run a 3in DP and 3in custom exhuast il fab up, run atmospheric wastegate out the side of the front bumper Most definatly get an EBC, Fmax has thier fuel management that i will proceed to throw in the garbage and il use my VAFC and get her dyno tuned for sure w/ 440cc's. lastly i might get a MSD 6BTM depending on $$$. Will spending around $2000ish for a turbo kit & extras be worth while compared to my current setup? Juice is great, but its not always there, and not always reliable. I can sell my CTR cams because i kept my GSR's, sell my 4-1 header, and sell some of the FMAX fuel management to help offset the cost of the turbo kit.
----What do you guys think? ive been doing hondas for quite some time now and have always wanted to boost. My monster LS1/Rx7 project wont be done this year,,, so i think this may be the calling for boost that ive always wanted...
im probably 175whp now on motor and maybe 245 on juice, anyone think 300whp is attainable with that turbo setup i want to put together at 10psi?
Also, this is my daily driver car, so that kinda plays a role as well, sorta, i dont have a job, so i dont have to really drive anywhere
Please only honest, helpful, educated, usefull responses.
-james

patdemps

I'd definately go boost. I actually think it'd be more reliable then your current setup with juice if it was tuned by a professional/reputable tuner.

Definately put the GSR cams back in and sell those CTR's for some extra cash. Sell the rest of your parts and you'll easily have enough. I'd actually run some 550cc injectors just to be safe and also a fuel pump wouldn't hurt. Spend the majority of your money on engine management/tuner whether its Hondata, Uberdata, or AEM EMS. It'll easily be reliable with a good tune. At 300whp your close to where your rods/pistons are nearing trouble. I would never put that much power to the ground and feel safe on a stock block but thats just me. Others will say find a great tuner and your set. Its all on your tuning man, for real. Thats your reliability.

Find your tuner before you make this decision. Then, go from there. I would definately suggest turbo, you'll be much happier. If you really want to go with the hack then read up and find a great tuner....I would never run the hack with 300whp on a stock block, but once again thats just me. Im a stickler for reliability.

Ill let the experienced jump in on this.

Ls1 FD3s

i have a 255 intank pump already, so thats all under control. with a 38 or 40mm tial wastegate, how necessary is an EBC? i know they have great functions that help a ton with spool time and whatnot, but my main concern is not having any boost spikes, dont want to kill the engine. I may go with a tubular manifold that places the WG in the exhaust stream of all 4 cylinders, that will help a lot in decreasing the risk of spikes. Will the VAFC and MSD 6BTM be a decent setup for tuning and timing retard? for lets say 300whp or less?

One other option i have is to sell my longblock b18c, keep the tranny and use a b18b longblock, aside from having more cash left over that way... Ive always read from members on this board that VTEC engines and turbo equals a lot of cash and generally more problems, i dont know how true that is,,, but i can understand how VTEC can be an issue with boost.

Only thing about going the b18b route is, i know that engine with full bolt ons in my car sure as hell wont turn a mid 13 on engine like my b18c, more like a mid upper 14. then with a turbo kit, im stuck in the 13s again im gonna do some research on LS turbo right now, it will be the easiest on my wallet if i go turbo. At the same time, i want some more powa!!! heh who doesnt?
thanks
-james

patdemps

You won't have trouble making power off a b18b if that is what you are getting at. Quickb18b (Iggy) ran a 12.9 in the 1/4 with 271whp. So, if you can drive a car and can put down some decent power with a good set of tires (he used drag radials) then you should be all set. He was running I believe 13psi on a precision sc34 turbo. Plus you have a GSR tranny and that will help out more, Iggy had just a straight up ls setup on a stock block. All you have to do is bump up the boost, with the lower compression of an ls it allows you to run more boost to compensate for the lack of power compared to a c1.

back to what I said earlier. tuning is the key

As far as the manual boost controller. if your scared about boost spike then just run it off your wastegate spring, you won't have the ability to crank it up and blow yourself up and you'll also pretty much eliminate boost spike. I say just go without one, thats what I did.

notoriousB

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ls1 FD3s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Will the VAFC and MSD 6BTM be a decent setup for tuning and timing retard?</TD></TR></TABLE>

the BTM won't help with the timing advance probs. w/ the AFC hack, you can ditch that and get a few $$$.

I agree on the boost controller - just use wastegate spring to avoid spikes, especially w/ the AFC hack, my MBC was spiking over 12psi occasionally and putting the car into limp mode. I got a .7 BAR wg spring and no more probs.