Just Chipped and Solid CEL
I finally got my car started with my newly chipped P75. I had no CEL and it idled fine. When I pulled out it kicked back and bogged hard at around 3-4K and the CEL came on. So I pulled in to go get a paperclip to check the codes and when I came back the CEL was gone. It revved fine. When I pulled out it bogged again at 3K and now a solid CEL all the time. I am also running very rich now on the stock LS map. I tried to pull the codes but I think it is solid, however I am not sure if I am jumping the blue harness correctly b/c I have never been able to get the CEL light to flash before. Any suggestions?
Setup:
Stock B18B1 (1995 LS with P75 ECU)
T3/T4 @ 8 PSI
3inch custom exhaust
AFC Hack (working on Uberdata chip and I have 750cc's in the garrage)
Some background:
I used a Willem standard with a AT25C256 chip. I am using the StockGSR.bin with the StockLS map imported. I am connecting the 2 pins on the blue plug with the black and brown wires with a paperclip and getting no flashing lights. I burned with version 1.666. However, I have cut the jumper at J1 and still getting a solid CEL. I am pretty sure the ECU is OK since it was working before (after I chpped it) and I have not done anything to it since I chipped it. Here is a history of the last week:
-Chipped ECU
-Got solid CEL and limp mode
-Found I was not burning chip correctly, fixed that
-Car started without CEL
-Blew my ECU fuse... I think it was bare o2 sensor wires
-Replace fuse
-No CEL but lean... I think it was due to all the dry starts and no pressure in the fuel lines... or the ECU was retunning it self after being reset
-I did not let it idle after reset and it hestitated a bit and finally threw a solid CEL and went limp/rich
-I tried to reset the ECU (warmed her up, pulled both 15Amp and 7.5Amp fuese as well as negative terminal to the battery)... still solid CEL
-Now I can't get the solid CEL off even in stock (J1 not jumped) form.
-Currenltly pulling my hair out......
Setup:
Stock B18B1 (1995 LS with P75 ECU)
T3/T4 @ 8 PSI
3inch custom exhaust
AFC Hack (working on Uberdata chip and I have 750cc's in the garrage)
Some background:
I used a Willem standard with a AT25C256 chip. I am using the StockGSR.bin with the StockLS map imported. I am connecting the 2 pins on the blue plug with the black and brown wires with a paperclip and getting no flashing lights. I burned with version 1.666. However, I have cut the jumper at J1 and still getting a solid CEL. I am pretty sure the ECU is OK since it was working before (after I chpped it) and I have not done anything to it since I chipped it. Here is a history of the last week:
-Chipped ECU
-Got solid CEL and limp mode
-Found I was not burning chip correctly, fixed that
-Car started without CEL
-Blew my ECU fuse... I think it was bare o2 sensor wires
-Replace fuse
-No CEL but lean... I think it was due to all the dry starts and no pressure in the fuel lines... or the ECU was retunning it self after being reset
-I did not let it idle after reset and it hestitated a bit and finally threw a solid CEL and went limp/rich
-I tried to reset the ECU (warmed her up, pulled both 15Amp and 7.5Amp fuese as well as negative terminal to the battery)... still solid CEL
-Now I can't get the solid CEL off even in stock (J1 not jumped) form.
-Currenltly pulling my hair out......
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by f22b2tdave »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if i'm not mistaken, solid cel is code 0 or bad ecu...which in your case could be anything done to the ecu or chip</TD></TR></TABLE>
That is true, but it can easily be caused by a bad burn on the chip or the chip being inserted incorrectly, among other things...
johcipa: I'm just outside melbourne... message me
That is true, but it can easily be caused by a bad burn on the chip or the chip being inserted incorrectly, among other things...
johcipa: I'm just outside melbourne... message me
Reburn your chip, and when your done do a verify on it to make sure it burned properly. Probably a slight glitch in the code.
EDIT: I just read the rest of your post about it still doing it with j1 disconnected. Check your solder joints on the dlatch (The other chip you installed when you chipped your ecu. I bet you have a bad trace, or dry solder joint. easy enough to fix.
EDIT: I just read the rest of your post about it still doing it with j1 disconnected. Check your solder joints on the dlatch (The other chip you installed when you chipped your ecu. I bet you have a bad trace, or dry solder joint. easy enough to fix.
I'll take another look. Doesn't the ECU just ignore the places you modified for chipping if you don't have J1 jumped? I did have my car working a few days ago in stock ecu (J1 not jumped) and it worked fine.
Which chip are you talking about to check? The skinny 74HC373 chip or the larger 29C256/ZIF? All the solder points look pretty clean and I checked them out for continuity with a MM and they looked good.
Could it be that I am not resetting the ECU right. I blew the ECU fuse (15Amp power fuse). Maybe I am just not clearing out the old CEL? I warmed the car up, took out the fuse (both 7.5 and 15), waited, put the fuse back in and still a solid CEL.
Which chip are you talking about to check? The skinny 74HC373 chip or the larger 29C256/ZIF? All the solder points look pretty clean and I checked them out for continuity with a MM and they looked good.
Could it be that I am not resetting the ECU right. I blew the ECU fuse (15Amp power fuse). Maybe I am just not clearing out the old CEL? I warmed the car up, took out the fuse (both 7.5 and 15), waited, put the fuse back in and still a solid CEL.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by toolowsol »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">EDIT: I just read the rest of your post about it still doing it with j1 disconnected. Check your solder joints on the dlatch (The other chip you installed when you chipped your ecu. I bet you have a bad trace, or dry solder joint. easy enough to fix.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Which has absolutely nothing to do with anything when J1 is cut. ECU doesn't look for, care about, etc, 74HC373 with J1 cut.
You have either a wiring or an ECU problem, bro, and if it's an ECU problem it's from shorting out O2 sensor wiring and sending heater circuit voltage somewhere it didn't belong. Time for testing with a known good ECU after you make sure the O2 (and any other) wiring is correct so you don't kill the test ECU too.
I've always maintained that HT is a poor place to ask chipping questions... five responses that have nothing to do with your problem, by people with varying levels of competence and experience, clearly illustrate this. toolowsol and myself are the only ppl who've chimed in with the talent required to fix your problem, and the only reason I checked this thread was because I figured you were getting all the wrong advice from people who don't know anything, and toolowsol wasn't much help this time because he lacked one tiny bit of experience I've had... no disrespect directed his way, but everyone else asking stupid Q's and offering stupid opinions needs to beef up their post count a little more in both the cosmetic & appearance, and Hype-R forums before they try anything requiring rudimentary skill.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Which has absolutely nothing to do with anything when J1 is cut. ECU doesn't look for, care about, etc, 74HC373 with J1 cut.
You have either a wiring or an ECU problem, bro, and if it's an ECU problem it's from shorting out O2 sensor wiring and sending heater circuit voltage somewhere it didn't belong. Time for testing with a known good ECU after you make sure the O2 (and any other) wiring is correct so you don't kill the test ECU too.
I've always maintained that HT is a poor place to ask chipping questions... five responses that have nothing to do with your problem, by people with varying levels of competence and experience, clearly illustrate this. toolowsol and myself are the only ppl who've chimed in with the talent required to fix your problem, and the only reason I checked this thread was because I figured you were getting all the wrong advice from people who don't know anything, and toolowsol wasn't much help this time because he lacked one tiny bit of experience I've had... no disrespect directed his way, but everyone else asking stupid Q's and offering stupid opinions needs to beef up their post count a little more in both the cosmetic & appearance, and Hype-R forums before they try anything requiring rudimentary skill.
I'm sorry but your wrong on this one, if you have a solder bridge on the d-latch it can cause a solid CEL even with j1 cut, I know because it happened on an ecu somebody gave me to fix. They tried socketing it and fucked up. So I cut j1 and it was still messed up, got out the microscope and sure enough the 74hc373 had two pins soldered together. Desoldered it, and redid it, and it worked perfectly
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J. Davis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">everyone else asking stupid Q's and offering stupid opinions needs to beef up their post count a little more in both the cosmetic & appearance, and Hype-R forums before they try anything requiring rudimentary skill.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ex-*******-scuse me!!! I've chipped more ECU's then I can count. I'm just trying to help. You don't have to be a *** about it.
Ex-*******-scuse me!!! I've chipped more ECU's then I can count. I'm just trying to help. You don't have to be a *** about it.
Thanks guys. I'll check the dlatch. I checked a couple times and the soldering looking pretty clean. Is there anyway to check the continuity between to leads to see if they are making connection with one another? I did this with the dlatch and the ZIF and most of them did not have continuity w/each other but a few did have a reading of about .45 on the 20ohm scale.
Also, right after I chipped it I was having problems with the chip (burned wrong) but I was able to drive with J1 cut w/out a CEL. Leads me to believe that the soldering is probably OK. I'll double check though. I might just try desoldering the whole 74HC373. Can a solder bridge on the 29C256 spot cause the same problem?
I have left a post on Uberdata but I have not recieved a whole lot of feedback yet.
I keep thinking it is just that I did not reset my ECU properly after I blew the fuse. Is it dificult to reset the ECU. I don't think it is and I tried pulling both fuses and diconnecting the battery...
Also, right after I chipped it I was having problems with the chip (burned wrong) but I was able to drive with J1 cut w/out a CEL. Leads me to believe that the soldering is probably OK. I'll double check though. I might just try desoldering the whole 74HC373. Can a solder bridge on the 29C256 spot cause the same problem?
I have left a post on Uberdata but I have not recieved a whole lot of feedback yet.
I keep thinking it is just that I did not reset my ECU properly after I blew the fuse. Is it dificult to reset the ECU. I don't think it is and I tried pulling both fuses and diconnecting the battery...
Any good multimeter will have a continuity tester, mine beeps when their is continuity so you can quickly test each pin with the one next to it, and if your still having problems test each pin with the end of it's trace (time consuming, but effective) This will tell you for sure if it is a solder error or chip/wiring error.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .nate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Ex-*******-scuse me!!! I've chipped more ECU's then I can count. I'm just trying to help. You don't have to be a *** about it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
dont feel bad, his gay *** left me out too
Ex-*******-scuse me!!! I've chipped more ECU's then I can count. I'm just trying to help. You don't have to be a *** about it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
dont feel bad, his gay *** left me out too
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