JRSC for daily driver - B18B or B16A setup?
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JRSC for daily driver - B18B or B16A setup?
B18B kit has only got a M45, B16A has the M60...
Which would more likely make a better daily driver? I'm thinking of building a nice little daily driver civic with a inexensive swap, keeping the internals stock. I think the B16A has probably got stronger internals than the LS, however, the LS should theoretically make a lot more bottom end, while the B16A along with the bigger blower, might be able to match it...
I definately want as much low end as possible, but I don't want to be bummed out by having power run out after 6000rpm with the small M45. From the dynos I've seen, it seems like the big M60 on the B16A makes real good torque numbers and horsepower climbs all the way to redline... What I'm unsure about is, even though the B16A would have a disadvatage by 0.2L, would the bigger blower make up for the lack of low end, midrange, and highend power and thus equate to an all round better setup?
The application in question is a 98 EK 4-door...
Which would more likely make a better daily driver? I'm thinking of building a nice little daily driver civic with a inexensive swap, keeping the internals stock. I think the B16A has probably got stronger internals than the LS, however, the LS should theoretically make a lot more bottom end, while the B16A along with the bigger blower, might be able to match it...
I definately want as much low end as possible, but I don't want to be bummed out by having power run out after 6000rpm with the small M45. From the dynos I've seen, it seems like the big M60 on the B16A makes real good torque numbers and horsepower climbs all the way to redline... What I'm unsure about is, even though the B16A would have a disadvatage by 0.2L, would the bigger blower make up for the lack of low end, midrange, and highend power and thus equate to an all round better setup?
The application in question is a 98 EK 4-door...
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Re: JRSC for daily driver - B18B or B16A setup? (teg92)
b16 all the way (see sig for more info)
The jrsc makes up for the lower displacement, and the additional 2000rpm helps you walk away from anything the road throws at you.
If you decide in a year that you need more low end grunt, go with a b18b or b20b bottom end. Since you already have the VTEC wired in, and the VTEC head, it's a simple project.
FYI, I'm breaking in my new 1.9L forged setup with the jrsc at 6psi, and it's a ton more fun than my WRX. If not for the nasty rain, and hour of traffic I have to fight, I'd drive my integra all the time.
The jrsc makes up for the lower displacement, and the additional 2000rpm helps you walk away from anything the road throws at you.
If you decide in a year that you need more low end grunt, go with a b18b or b20b bottom end. Since you already have the VTEC wired in, and the VTEC head, it's a simple project.
FYI, I'm breaking in my new 1.9L forged setup with the jrsc at 6psi, and it's a ton more fun than my WRX. If not for the nasty rain, and hour of traffic I have to fight, I'd drive my integra all the time.
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From: greenVILLE, SC
Re: JRSC for daily driver - B18B or B16A setup? (funky_cornbread)
Do the B16 a motor with the blower. you will like it better. I preffer to put a blower on a b18c1 motor. One of my friends happen to have one and it felt nice nad was even tuned. he sold it for turbo
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Re: JRSC for daily driver - B18B or B16A setup? (G"UNIT)
New idea. You can get a B20B motor for next to nothing. Throw on a B16 tranny with a blower and you've got a great daily-driver-friendly powerband.
I wonder what the M45 blower would be like on the B20B? I suppose power would fall off just shy of 6k?
I wonder what the M45 blower would be like on the B20B? I suppose power would fall off just shy of 6k?
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Re: JRSC for daily driver - B18B or B16A setup? (teg92)
Do the M62 blower conversion for the B20, and you'll have a wicked setup.
http://www.theoldone.com/articles/conversion/
FYI, I have an ITR manifold with 75% of the conversion done already that you can take for $50. Yeah, it's a killer deal but I'd love to see someone finally do the conversion. I didn't because my 1.9L VTEC was finally completed. The M62 is so much better than the m45, don't bother going jrsc unless you utilize it.
http://www.theoldone.com/articles/conversion/
FYI, I have an ITR manifold with 75% of the conversion done already that you can take for $50. Yeah, it's a killer deal but I'd love to see someone finally do the conversion. I didn't because my 1.9L VTEC was finally completed. The M62 is so much better than the m45, don't bother going jrsc unless you utilize it.
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Re: JRSC for daily driver - B18B or B16A setup? (hypa)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hypa »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do the M62 blower conversion for the B20, and you'll have a wicked setup.
The M62 is so much better than the m45, don't bother going jrsc unless you utilize it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
While this may be the case, I'm not too sure I'd feel confident with an M62 on a stock B20 bottom end. (weak sleeves)
The M62 is so much better than the m45, don't bother going jrsc unless you utilize it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>While this may be the case, I'm not too sure I'd feel confident with an M62 on a stock B20 bottom end. (weak sleeves)
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Re: JRSC for daily driver - B18B or B16A setup? (teg92)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by teg92 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">While this may be the case, I'm not too sure I'd feel confident with an M62 on a stock B20 bottom end. (weak sleeves)</TD></TR></TABLE>
that's like saying "I can't masterbate, because I might break my dink", it doesn't make sense. The B20 may have a larger bore than the b18 series, but they're by no means glass. If anything, the M62 will be better since you get more cfm and less pressure, thus less heat.
that's like saying "I can't masterbate, because I might break my dink", it doesn't make sense. The B20 may have a larger bore than the b18 series, but they're by no means glass. If anything, the M62 will be better since you get more cfm and less pressure, thus less heat.
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Re: JRSC for daily driver - B18B or B16A setup? (hypa)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hypa »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
that's like saying "I can't masterbate, because I might break my dink", it doesn't make sense. The B20 may have a larger bore than the b18 series, but they're by no means glass. If anything, the M62 will be better since you get more cfm and less pressure, thus less heat.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Uhm. Have you researched the fragility of the B20B/Z siamese cylinders?
that's like saying "I can't masterbate, because I might break my dink", it doesn't make sense. The B20 may have a larger bore than the b18 series, but they're by no means glass. If anything, the M62 will be better since you get more cfm and less pressure, thus less heat.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Uhm. Have you researched the fragility of the B20B/Z siamese cylinders?
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Re: JRSC for daily driver - B18B or B16A setup? (teg92)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by teg92 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Uhm. Have you researched the fragility of the B20B/Z siamese cylinders?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes I have, and they're far from fragile.
They a ductile iron sleeve pressed into an aluminum housing, pretty much the same way most Honda motors are built. Although they have a 3mm larger bore than a b18, they still have a ton of sleeve left. Plus, the lower CR allows for a much smaller learning curve, since you're not running as high cylinder pressures. I've seen stock sleeved hondas running 11's all day long, it all falls down to the tuning. A guy with 12-14 second goals is not going to blow up a Honda motor unless they do something stupid. These include running it super hard for long periods of time, or not getting it tuned right.
Now, if you choose to spend money on sleeving, while I spend money on tuning, who do you think is going to run faster with the same system (let's say B20b, GT2530, @ 8psi)?
Uhm. Have you researched the fragility of the B20B/Z siamese cylinders?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes I have, and they're far from fragile.
They a ductile iron sleeve pressed into an aluminum housing, pretty much the same way most Honda motors are built. Although they have a 3mm larger bore than a b18, they still have a ton of sleeve left. Plus, the lower CR allows for a much smaller learning curve, since you're not running as high cylinder pressures. I've seen stock sleeved hondas running 11's all day long, it all falls down to the tuning. A guy with 12-14 second goals is not going to blow up a Honda motor unless they do something stupid. These include running it super hard for long periods of time, or not getting it tuned right.
Now, if you choose to spend money on sleeving, while I spend money on tuning, who do you think is going to run faster with the same system (let's say B20b, GT2530, @ 8psi)?
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