JRSC changing belts ?????? help
03-12-2006, 06:59 PM
#1
JRSC changing belts ?????? help
ok quick question i need to know how to change the alternator to crank belt and the alternator to SC belt for a 6lb on a gsr. we need to change the belts and we dont remember how to take them off. please help!!!
03-13-2006, 10:47 AM
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Re: JRSC changing belts ?????? help (DeDonDeRosa)
Towards the top you'll see the Upper Tensioner Assembly, it's near your valve cover and JR manifold. It has a long skinny bolt or screw (depending on the year of your sc) that points downward and pushes against a small adjustment plate. It also has a plastic idler pulley attached near the bottom. It'll have 2 bolts both 12mm (size?). One facing inward and one facing outward. You have to loosen both 12mm bolts and then you can back the bolt/screw out somewhat, relieving pressure from the adjustment plate that in-turn relieves pressure on the idler pulley. Once you do that you should have enough slack to remove the sc to alternator belt.
If you have a/c and power steering you'll need to remove those belt to change the crankshaft to alternator belt, because it's the inner most belt. But those belts remove exactly the same as if your car were stock.
The Lower Tensioner Assembly is visible from looking down into your engine bay. It is a few inches from your crank pulley located approx. 1/3 of the distance from your crank to your alternator. It will be a cast piece of metal with a plastic idler pulley attached to it and a 10mm bolt visible from the top that faces downward. With a couple of long socket extensions you could loosen (don't remove) the bolt and relieve the tension on the lower idler pulley. When the pulley's tension is relieved it'll create enough slack to remove the crank to alternator belt. Sometimes you have to tug down on the idler pulley if it doesn't look like it's moving (road grime can make it stick sometimes).
Normally I'll remove the driver's side wheel and splash guard and jack the car up on supports so I can see the lower assembly and belts better, it'll really help you when you try to align the ribs of the new belts also.
Good luck....hth.
If you have a/c and power steering you'll need to remove those belt to change the crankshaft to alternator belt, because it's the inner most belt. But those belts remove exactly the same as if your car were stock.
The Lower Tensioner Assembly is visible from looking down into your engine bay. It is a few inches from your crank pulley located approx. 1/3 of the distance from your crank to your alternator. It will be a cast piece of metal with a plastic idler pulley attached to it and a 10mm bolt visible from the top that faces downward. With a couple of long socket extensions you could loosen (don't remove) the bolt and relieve the tension on the lower idler pulley. When the pulley's tension is relieved it'll create enough slack to remove the crank to alternator belt. Sometimes you have to tug down on the idler pulley if it doesn't look like it's moving (road grime can make it stick sometimes).
Normally I'll remove the driver's side wheel and splash guard and jack the car up on supports so I can see the lower assembly and belts better, it'll really help you when you try to align the ribs of the new belts also.
Good luck....hth.
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