If you just listen to TheShodan, life will get a whole hell of a lot easier for you.

 

u arent understand what the pressure is doing to your turbo its like sticking a 100 psi air gun up your *** and pulling the trigger, u wouldn't be very happy or alive and neither is your turbo, your turbo needs somewhere around 10 psi oil pressure and thats it and sometimes when they give u a recommended size for something its not ideal i mean we all put a bigger exhaust on for better flow right, same goes for your return line, its all about volume.

 

[QUOTE=TheShodan;46750452]Its not even about shorter, you need a weld bung to go into the pan that the return line can direct fit into. The correct weld bung is barely 1/2 inch outwards. ELIMINATE THE RETURN BUNG YOU MADE COMPLETELY.

Stop playing games, my friend..

1) Get your turbocharger inspected (you've likely killed it, but its more than likely reparable. If its an eBay turbo, throw it away or use it as a door stop)

2) completely rework the return line whether or not the turbo is has to be repaired, or you'll be in the same place you started... Seriously and honestly.



Start over and get the correct return lines from one of these places. Yes. Spend the money, dammit and stop this madness.

B&R Fittings
http://www.brfittings.com/index.php?...tegory&path=39

Or stan @ Fast-Turbo
http://www.fast-turbo.com/products/C...-Line-Kit.html

To look something like this


or this


Or even this


You can do this... you've come this far.. Its time to **** or get off the pot...[/QUOTE

Agreed, maybe if someone actually looks at it and tells him its toast he will believe us. shodan and i are in agreeance with both your feed and return being the issue if u get the turbo rebuilt or buy a new one do not start the car without addressing these 2 issues, please, for your own sake.

 

tomorrow im going to order the b&r oil return line, i was just trying to save money which is just killling me.After i order that im going to buy the .065 restrictor as well and go from there

 

my turbo is a garrett 60/63 im going to take it off and inspect it, hopefully its still good if not ill just buy a rebuild kit. should i order the .060 restrictor rom b&r aswell or a .065?

 

Your attempt to save $50-$90 is now costing you several hundred dollars.

Do you know what to look for if its shot outside of the oil sealing ring? (oil starvation? metal fatique, Contamination, etc?) Because if its the turbine shaft, Now you're looking at about $500 to rebuild and replace items. The turbo will now have to go to a facility to be rebalanced. this is something you send to the professionals like gpopshop and get it properly prepared. There's no point in doing this if you don't know what to look for.

.065" will be fine for a restrictor PROVIDED THE OIL RETURN IS CORRECTLY INSTALLED.

 

actually if its a garrett turbo u should be able to find out exactly what pressure it needs and they should even be able to tell u the exact size of restrictor u need for a honda application if u contact them i use a .08 because my tuner has always used that size and he recommended it to me, so a .065 or .08 you'll be in that neighbourhood you just gotta ask. as far as the turbo goes refer to shodans last post.

 

I have been reading corky bell maximum boost. If it needs all of that I would send it somewhere. But there is stuff I can look for. So how high are the chances that it's that dead? Is the anything before breaking it down that would be showing it's dead
I know it the turbine is hitting the housing but anything besides that

 

if u dont wanna have it checked out then fix your oiling issues and pray to the turbo gods that it doesnt leak.

 

i still don't know why some of you guys don't look up the hose shops in your town. we have more than a few that sell oil pressure lines, return lines, water lines, turbo gear, custom cut and pressed clamps, aeroquip, you name it. a lot of the hoses you see on something like a caterpillar or diesel trucks might just be local made gear. my pressure line, return line, WG to tubro line and potentially my bov and boost gauge will all be threaded line. no worm clamps, no rubber cut hoses.

 

i know it was good before it was put on my car because it cam off my buddies and didnt smoke. but since i have been having all these problems idk anymore. i want to see if i can check it out myself.it doesn't constantly have 100psi of oil pressure only under load at cold idle its between 40-80 depends on what its idling at that day

 

http://blogcarparts.blogspot.com/201...bocharger.html

here are some things i should look for what else would over oiling cause that i should check out?

 

It goes by specific oil pressure of the feed line from the car. Most times a restrictor is not necessary, but for some applications it is. Its not a Garrett vs. Precision vs.. XXX. Its application specific. Typically, for Honda B-series, anything over 85psi of pressure at any point requires anything from .080"-.065". Its not that cut & dry.

 

I explained all of those things in that link over a page ago.. but that's fine. as long as you're figuring it out.

There is nothing more to figure out after this JDMmadness.. You're driving everyone nuts now.. time for you to get to work. No more asking until you get some progress done.

 

what i really meant is name brand versus chinese. i know for a fact chinese turbos will not put up with higher oil pressure, and i have seen this many times before on various turbos. to the op what kind of car was it on previously?

 

If the turbine wheel is hitting the turbine housing too, its time for another turbo. that's now a 3rd thing that tells you its dying. Full internals + Turbine wheel/shaft + housing machining + new balance to the new turbine shaft to the compressor wheel = $600+. time for another turbo man.. But in the meantime, go ahead and send it to gpopshop so it can be officially declared DOA, in case anything was missed.

this is just looking more and more painful. I'm sorry.